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Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale


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Looks great...JUST MAKE SURE...That you lined up those templates port and starboard at the stern.  This is crucial.   The moldongs wrap around the stern and if the templates arent lined up you will have serious problems later on.

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I just checked the measurements. They are the same port and starboard. I didn't think to check this before installing them. I guess I just got lucky.

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Beakhead Bulkhead and Deck Planking: I prefer to do the planking off the model, whenever possible, to avoid sanding into other parts. Here the deck planking is sanded and ready to be installed.

 

post-8351-0-44372300-1423667414_thumb.jpg

 

The planks were glued to the bulkhead and sanded. The doors were replaced with ladders like those that are now on the Mayflower replica. I used this simple jig to align the ladders. Ladders were glued with 5 minute epoxy applied with a pin. A rather slow process, but I think it's worth the wait.

 

post-8351-0-71762900-1423668165_thumb.jpg

 

The completed bulkhead and deck planking with no sanding necessary other than the outside curve and overall height of the bulkhead.

 

post-8351-0-02771200-1423690898_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Once the first ladder is set parallel, it's really a matter of being patient with the others. It took me three hours to set them all. A lot of time was spent waiting for the glue to set. You don't want to remove the shim too early before starting the next ladder. What I found interesting was how easy it was to remove any excess glue using a #11 blade without leaving a residue.

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Finishing The Stern: I scanned the stern windows from the plans and imported the file into CorelDraw. I made a drawing of the windows using the scanned image as a guide. The file was then printed and trimmed to fit on the stern. I closed the 3 holes in bulkhead YY with some scrap balsa and adhered the windows using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. The remainder of the stern was completed as per the instructions. The four laser cut knees were replaced with boxwood. These were made by hand from a single piece of wood. Laser cut knees were glued to each end and used as a guide for shaping. 1/16" wide pieces were ripped using the table saw.

 

Photo of window drawing

post-8351-0-41579000-1424044977.jpg

 

post-8351-0-18442900-1424046003_thumb.jpg

 

post-8351-0-85292600-1424059389_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Very nice. Very nice. I too like the windows. I think its a great idea as you wouldn't see much inside at that scale anyhow. Nice idea. 

Current/But Not immediate Build Logs

 

I am still gathering the tools I need but starting preliminary work. Nothing to show just yet.

 

Fair American

Armed Virginia Sloop.

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Waterway, Bulwark Stanchions and pre-planking the Forecastle Deck: The wood strip for the waterway was made uniform by running it through the thickness sander prior to being installed onto the deck. The stanchions and pre-planking strips were given a thin coat of Wipe-on Poly where needed in order to protect the wood from becoming blotchy when glued. Four different spacers had to be created to keep the stanchions parallel and equidistant from each other. The deck is slightly smaller than the one shown on the plan and further adjustments had to be made to account for this. The stanchions were initially held in place using a tiny amount of PVA. Once the glue was set, the excess was cleared away using a #11 blade and CA was applied near the top of the stanchion. Installing each stanchion proved to be very tedious work. The pre-planking was boiled and shaped to the appropriate curve prior to being glued in place.

 

After the remaining parts are installed I will give everything a final coat of Wipe-on Poly. To Say  that I was happy when this part of the build was completed would be a bit of an understatement.

 

post-8351-0-48026000-1424633010_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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  • 3 weeks later...

Mike, Thomas, thank You!

 

Waterway, Bulwark Stanchions and pre-planking the Poop Deck: The Waterway was done the same way as the Forecastle deck. The stanchions were protected with a coat of Wipe-on Poly prior to gluing. Rather than using PVA to tack glue the stanchions like those on the Forecastle deck, all of these were glued using only CA. The glue was applied with the point of a nail that was grooved using a Dremel cut-off wheel. A quick swipe with a Q-tip removed any excess CA, leaving the wood unblemished. In order to complete the pre-planking, the transom had to be raised another 1/16" or so. Otherwise things went smoothly. In preparation for the final layer of planking I started thinning the Bulwark Template. The photo shows where I thinned the bulwark template leaving the overall Bulwark thickness at 1/32".

 

post-8351-0-21115900-1426207242_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Bulwark Stanchions Upper Deck: Upper Deck stanchions are now completed and the Bulwark template has been gradually thinned in this area as was done on the Poop Deck.

 

post-8351-0-44403700-1426296367_thumb.jpg

 

Bulwark Stanchions Quarter Deck: Instructions say to cut a 1/16" thick waterway around the stanchions before the Quarter Deck is planked. To be honest, I didn't think that I would be able to get a tight fit around each stanchion. Some stanchions are at slightly different angles and they extend almost to the edge of the waterway which would make it very fragile. My solution was to split the stanchions at each location into two parts. One half below the false deck now and the other half on top of the waterway once the planking is completed. I had to start on the "After Cubbridge Head" in order to determine the length of each stanchion. The false beam, which was later removed, shows how I determined the length of each stanchion below the false deck.The correct spacing was maintained for the stanchions so they will match the location of the stanchions on top of the waterway.

 

post-8351-0-85225300-1426294315_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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The deck stanchions look great. Very nicely done details. Excellent work.

 

Russ

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After Cubbridge Head: The After Cubbridge Head and false deck were completed with stanchions below the false deck in place. The false deck has a strip of boxwood glued to its forward edge to maintain uniformity.

 

post-8351-0-30746700-1426358978_thumb.jpg

 

post-8351-0-86815900-1426360110_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Very nice build Mike,

 

its going to be a beautiful ship

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Russ, Nils, thanks for your comments and all the likes!

 

I just started using Chuck's method of applying Wipe-on Poly. He uses the Satin finish and it's applied with a soft, lint-free cloth and immediately buffed before it dries. Since I haven't been wiping it off immediately it has a bit too much gloss. I've been using Dullcote Spray Lacquer on top of it to flatten the finish. Problem is that it prevents you from applying more W-O-P if needed. However, I can see places where using Dullcote would still be useful.

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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All of the deck planking, waterways, stanchions and pre-planking are now finished.

 

It was more time consuming doing the upper deck this way. 1/32" edge joints are fragile. The only real advantage being that it's easier to sand the planking off the ship. Just something I wanted to try.

 

post-8351-0-27486600-1427040853_thumb.jpg

 

The deck planking glued to the false deck

 

post-8351-0-34961800-1427040865_thumb.jpg

 

The last 2 planks and those in front of the grating were installed and covered by the waterway.

 

post-8351-0-41224800-1427040875_thumb.jpg

 

Upper deck with stanchions, grating, hatch and pre-planking installed. The bulwark template has been thinned down gradually exposing the inboard planking at its top edge. This will make the bulwark 1/16" thick after the second layer planking is completed.

 

post-8351-0-36887500-1427040882_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Hi Mike,

 

It was great meeting you last night at the Ship Model Society of New Jersey meeting. Your work on the Mayflower is meticulous. Using boxwood in place of basswood where the wood will be seen really adds to the overall impression of it being a quality build. You have a real eye for detail. I look forward to seeing you at future meetings and watching your Mayflower evolve.

Jim L

What we ever hope to do with ease, we must learn first to do with diligence. - Samuel Johnson

 

     On the Building Ways:                           Launched:                                                 Contracts Signed:                    Member:

       The Nautical Research Guild

                                                                                                                                                                                        The US Naval Institute

 

   

      

      

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After seeing your model last night, I was happy to discover your build log. 

So, I will be following along.

Cheers.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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Jim, Ken, thanks so much. I'm looking forward to next months meeting and hope to bring some of my girlfriends "healthy" cup cakes along. 

 

Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Stem, Keel and Stern Post: I used both boxwood and basswood to make these parts. I'm hoping that this wasn't a mistake. Everything looks good right now but I'm now wondering if the transition point between the boxwood and basswood will look the same once painted. I think that it would be a good idea to harden the basswood in order to protect its edge and fill the grain with primer. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

The kit supplied laser cut stem post was used as a template for cutting the boxwood and then used on the bottom to complete the part. 

 

post-8351-0-72867400-1427421866_thumb.jpg

 

The stern post was done in boxwood since a small portion at the top will be unpainted. It has a slight taper as per the plans.

 

post-8351-0-33218200-1427421877_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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It looks very good so far.

 

Once painted they should be fine. If you seal the grain on the basswood, someone would have to look far too closely to tell the difference.

 

Russ

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Russ, thanks!

 

I'm sure that you are right so I will do what you have suggested. Unfortunately, the 1/8" square boxwood strips I received were either undersized or not square. Since I didn't have any 1/8" boxwood sheet stock to cut one, I went with the kit supplied basswood strips. I figured that as long as the keel was going to be in basswood it would be all right to do the lower stem post in basswood too. We'll see!

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Your Mayflower turns out beautifully! It is a pleasure to watch the progress.

Where the "hardening" of the basswood is concerned I noticed that I ended up with a pretty smooth and hard surface when I prepared the Syren hull with sanding sealer before I applied the copper plates. Now how well such a surface can be painted afterwards I have no idea and probably would need a little experimenting  :)

 

Thomas

Current Built:   Model Shipways  Syren  (US Brig 1803)

 

Last Built:        Anfora (kit bashed)  Ictineo II  (1st steam powered submarine 1864)

 

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Thomas, thanks! I never thought of using a sanding sealer. Can you recommend a brand that I can try out. Maybe primer could be used over the sealer to prep for paint.

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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  • 5 months later...

Hello everyone! It has been a while since my last update so hopefully others will come more frequently in the future. Below is a photo showing all the planking completed on one side. Unfortunately I'm having to cope with wood strips that don't have square edges as delivered from the source. This makes things very tedious and slows down the process tremendously. The gun ports were originally done with no pencil edge and were very hard to see. After carefully removing them I made new ones using pencil edging. The last strake has been gradually tapered down to 1/64" and the wale will sit directly below it. The lighter planks at the top will eventually be painted and should give some uniformity to the hull overall.

 

post-8351-0-22192900-1441734461_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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  • 1 year later...

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