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Bounty Launch by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1:16 - SMALL - 2nd build


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Well, got my kit today of the launch from Model Expo (probably the absolutely BEST and most customer oriented business I've ever seen).

 

Skipped the intro of photographing the box/parts since you've seen many of those and all know what's inside the box.

 

The only thing bad was two of the walnut belaying pins are broken.  Just in case I need all 20 I'll talk to them tomorrow about replacements.  They are quick on this kind of stuff so those will arrive well before I need them.

 

I'm donating this to Dave's (Sawdust Dave) Wounded Warrior Project for auction so I want it to be really clean and as accurate as possible.  As this is only my 1 1/2 build (didn't get the longboat completed because I got depressed about "wavy" thwarts and set it aside) I'm asking you guys to help me get this assembled well.  One thing that will help is the rather large size of this model - 1:16.

 

I will do my best to take pictures of every step as I go along and if you see something that is screwy (or gonna cause something screwy later on) PLEASE don't hesitate to tell me.   I'm not a sensitive person (I've been called Spock and Sheldon(Big Bang)) and you are not going to hurt my feelings.  TRUTH PLEASE - especially from the "masters" if they happen to see this build.

 

It will be a few days before anything more shows up here - I've gotta finish at least enough of my new work table to get started, but stay tuned. 

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Hi Pops, I think the various build logs (including mine) will give you good pointers for things to watch out for. I'll be following your build. Curious to see what you do with this :)

 

BTW, if you plan to vary your rigging from the plans, you will need to get yourself more rope.

Edited by KeithW

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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Ok, stoopid here. :angry:  Sorry no pictures yet, but I'm only building the form - no actual work on the launch itself.

 

Even after reading through the other logs on the Launch, and reading the instructions 4 times, I still ended up with the sheer tabs on the wrong side of the forward 8 stations (according to the instructions).

 

Aft are no problem, they haven't been glued on yet.

 

Here's my question - I know that the instructions state "IMPORTANT" when addressing the side of the station that the sheer tab is positioned on, but WHY?  I can understand station 1 - the stem alignment block must glue to the forward face of the station so must be on the aft side and station 15 tabs must be on the forward side because of the transom horse, but why the IMPORTANT about the tabs being positioned on a given side of the station?

 

Is it critical enough to move those tabs?  NO fairing has been attempted yet.

 

Thanks for any answers/assistance.

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Pops,

   I am trying to remember when I built mine. What I am thinking your stations have the little mark on them as to where to place the sheer tab. They are mark on one side only.

 

Mario

Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER

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Pops,

   One more thing to add. They have to be placed exactly or your sheer plank will not be sitting in the correct spot when you start planking. Ok it is slowly coming back to me.

 

Mario

Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER

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Agreed, I assume that is because of the procedure used when using the laser to cut it.

 

BUT the instructions say that stations 9-15 should have the tab on the forward side (which is the marked side) and stations 1-8 should have the tab on the aft side(which means either put the tab on the unmarked side or flip the stations).  Flipping 1-8 is what I missed.  No problem for 9-15, they haven't been installed yet.

 

I just need to know if it is REALLY critical that those tabs (other than 1 and 15) be on the "correct" side of the station.  Does it affect the sheer line or what?  If it's NOT critical then it's a lot of unnecessary work to remove and replace all those tabs.  If it IS critical then I will indeed do it, just wondering why?

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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I see what your saying now Pops,

      They are glued in and is it worth the trouble taking them off and putting them on the correct side. To me as long as the sheers tabs are in line with that laser mark I don't see it bothering anything. This kit is to introduce builders to plank on frame. With the sheer tabs it lets you place the sheer strake in the correct spot. But to play it safe I would put them where they belong, but that is me. That 1/8 difference from one side to the other might cause a problem you do not need. If you used white glue, then a little water and they will just come right off with ease.

 

 

 

 

I hope this helps you out.

 

P.S. when you get to the cherry frames. There is enough material. Just soak those frames good before trying to bend them. I used heat after I soaked them. Expect a few to break, because for some reason some of the cherry strips were cross cut against the grain.

 

Mario

Edited by Cap'n Rat Fink

Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER

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Thanks Mario,  I think you're right about the sheer strake being the reason.

 

I had put them on with CA, but just carefully broke them off without damage to the station itself.

 

Tomorrow I'll cut some new ones and put them on the correct side.  I just finished putting on 9-15 being very careful to face them the correct way, so things are moving along.

 

Hope to have some images of actual boat construction early next week.

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Pops,

I encountered the same problem when building my Launch. I'd put the sheer tabs on the wrong side, but found it wasn't too much effort to remove them and put them on the correct side.

As a heads up for things to come, I recommend you pay close attention when edge-spiling your planks. I feel I could have done mine a little better.

(I did have some difficulty with my build, but that proved to be more due to stoopidity, rather than anything else.)

 

Also, I did apply candle wax onto the bulkhead formers prior to clamping the frame pieces in place ... I recommend this, as, when the time came, I found the whole thing separated from the former very easily.

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

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Thanks Captain.

 

I did indeed move those tabs as needed and completed the assembly/fairing of the building form today.

 

Had to go buy a candle  :P   Us bachelors don't have much call for them, but it's here when needed.

 

Gonna finish putting the keel together Sat/Sun and then I'll be putting some pics up here.

 

I must say this one is easier than when working on the longboat.  I think it's because of the size.  Now, if I can just learn to read/follow instructions................ :huh:

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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K, finally got some pictures.  

 

Not much but showing some progress.

 

Here's the form/building jig and the keel and transom have been completed.

 

post-12441-0-32448600-1415050050_thumb.jpg

 

This is the way I decided to do the outside of the transom (everybody knows about the word engraved on the part).  I decided that I wanted to plank both the inside and the outside of the transom so I bought a 1/32 sheet and cut three layers - a center one solid and planked both inside and outside.

 

Outside -

 

post-12441-0-78629700-1415050137_thumb.jpg

 

And here's the inside.  Got too close so a little blurry, but the pattern here was planked all the way across the transom.

 

post-12441-0-41169300-1415050177_thumb.jpg

 

If this is not appropriate for this boat, somebody let me know - I can still change it.  Just don't particularly like the solid transom look.

 

I've decided to NOT paint anything - all natural wood - figured that would go with any decor and might let someone buy it at the auction where they might not if they didn't like the color(s).

 

Comments/Critiques always welcomed.

 

 

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Well, no picture for this, but the "dreaded" bending on of the cherry frames is done.   :rolleyes:

 

I was really hesitant to begin this step because of some of the build logs, but it actually went pretty easy.

 

I boiled the sticks for about 30 minutes (after cutting them to length) and then started placing them.  Had some breaks (5 sticks I think), but other than that was pretty straightforward.

 

Will get them glued on tomorrow and then on to the planking.   :10_1_10:

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Yay Pops!    Saw you mention you were able to get your boundy so have been looking for the log,  finally found it.. look forward to seeing this one come along.    It is one that has caught my eye a few times but never added it to my wish list but always tempted.

 

Looks good so far, I like the look of the planked transom.

-Adam

 

Current Builds

Santa Maria - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

MayFlower - Model Shipways (5/32"=1') POB
Blue Shadow - Mamoli Revolutionary War Brigantine. (Fict) (1:64) POB (Recommissioned as the Kara June)

 

On The Shelf Waiting so Patiently

USRC Ranger - Corel (1:50) POB

18th Century Longboat - Model Shipways (1:4) POF

La Nina - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

U.S Brig Syren - Model Shipways (1:64) POB

 

Completed Builds

Phantom NY Pilot Boat - Model Shipways (1:96) Solid Hull

 

Decommissioned Builds
(Time and conditions were not good to these. They have been cancelled =( )

Willie L Bennett - Model Shipways (1:32) POF
USRC Harriet Lane - Model Shipways (1:128) Solid Hull

 

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Thanks everybody for the likes and comments. :D

 

Tks Adam, sorry I got sidetracked with this when I got it, and I'm only about half way thru Amati, but getting there.  I'm finding it much easier than the longboat, not that there was anything wrong with the longboat, just that this larger scale seems to allow me a better grip and I don't have as much anxiety about breakage.  I've decided that when I finish this one for auction, I'm gonna buy a second one, so I can have one too!  :D

 

Not much done today, had to redo a couple(3) of the frames that had broken under the clamp and didn't see them until I took the clamps off for gluing.  Replaced those and got the transom faired.

 

Also finished the tool chest.  I'm not accomplished enough (yet) to open it up and make all those tools like some have, but it looks pretty good.  I'll include a shot in one of the later pictures.

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Started the planking today.  Pics tomorrow or Sunday.

 

Got the two sheer planks drying now, and will attach them tomorrow and wet and shape the next 2.

 

I've decided to follow the "optional" method of planking (Bob Crane said I could in his instructions), by planking from the sheer to the garboard instead of from both directions.  Don't want to take a chance with the shutter plank looking wavy.  This way if there is anything wavy (hoping not) it will be the garboard plank at the bottom.  Not to mention that it just makes more sense to me.  Never have heard/understood why ships are planked from both directions, seems counter-intuitive to me.

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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You seem to be powering along, Pops.

I'm sure we are all looking forward to seeing some pics.

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

Website:          The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve

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K, here's a couple of shots of the planking in progress, second plank is being wet shaped.  Not much, but showing progress.

 

post-12441-0-03203400-1415492969_thumb.jpg

 

post-12441-0-02218500-1415492973_thumb.jpg

 

I'm playing around with the camera to figure out how to do close up shots and will then post a image of the tool chest.  It just needs to have the "hinges and clasp" attached.

 

I'm finding this boat MUCH easier to work with than the longboat.  I'm very hopeful at this point.

 

I've also decided that my next ship will be the San Francisco (have started the savings "account").  It was on my list of to-do projects and I'm really starting to get excited again after my failure with the longboat.

Edited by Pops

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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K, sorta got the camera figured out.  Still a little blurry, but you can see what I've done here for the hinges/clasp for the tool chest.

 

Clasp 

 

post-12441-0-05259400-1415519253_thumb.jpg

 

Hinges

 

post-12441-0-56337900-1415519259_thumb.jpg

 

I've been toying with the idea of leaving these in poly covered brass just for a little bit of shine on the thing.

 

What say you guys?

 

Brass or Black?

 

Sorry about the pictures.  Too close and really crappy.

Edited by Pops

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Nice work, Pops !!!

 

I really like the colouring you have added to the wood-work on your chest. And nice touch with the rope handles !!!

Obviously, even a closed tool-chest requires quite a bit of work.

 

Re: Your question

Based ONLY upon what I can see from your photographs, it is my opinion that your hinges and clasp are coloured just perfectly.

My only comment - and you can easily hide this by a-fixing your tool-chest into place up against your rear benches - would be that your hinges look, umm, err, "inside-out" (sorry).

Edited by CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
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Thanks for the likes everybody.

 

Capt Steve - I kinda agree with you about the hinges.  I tried that because it was done that way on the longboat.  However, I decided today to take off the wire piece and leave them flat.  As you say, the back of the tool chest will be mostly hidden against the hull so not really visible anyway.

 

I finished up the chest today and got stake #2 glued on both side.  #3 is soaking now.

 

I'm gonna try to get better pics of the chest but not sure this camera can go that close.

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Pops, nice work so far on the planking. One problem you may have if you leave the garboard plank for last is getting it to fit in the rabbet in the keel. I think you will want to at least put the garboard plank in before the plank above it.

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Tom - I've been thinking/wondering about that.  Maybe you are right.  That would still allow any "gapping" (which obviously I'm gonna try NOT to have) to be at the bottom.

 

So far, I've been lucky (can't call it skill and probably never will) and all the planks are fitting tightly together.  All I've had to do was sand off that miniscule laser bevel.  Obviously, I believe it would be VERY different if I was just trying to use raw strip material.

 

4th plank is being wet shaped now and I'll have new photos tomorrow. 

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Pops,

   Garboard and sheer strakes are probably the most important to place correctly during the planking process. That is why you have the system that everyone uses when you build towards the middle. Cap'n Steve is correct that the garboard must sit properly in the rabbit. if it does not you will have nothing but problems with the rest of your planking.

   your tool box is looking great.

 

mario

 

   

Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER

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Thanks Mario, and everybody for the likes.

 

I can understand the importance of the sheer strake, and I would assume that the garboard is important because it ties everything to the keel.

 

Basically what I'm doing, I think, (at least in my head) is, instead of putting the shutter plank in the approximate center of the craft, it's gonna now be the plank after the garboard.  In otherwords, I'm going to plank from the sheer plank down to the last two planks, then place the garboard, leaving the shutter plank as the last plank to go in, but the actual 1st plank off the garboard.  This way, any flaws, likely because of my inexperience, will be at the bottom of the craft instead of highly visible.

 

It will probably work for the Launch because the planks are laser cut and fit nicely.  Not so sure about when I do the next one and the planks are just straight strips of wood.  

 

May have to re-think this.

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Thanks everybody for the likes and comments. :D

 

Tks Adam, sorry I got sidetracked with this when I got it, and I'm only about half way thru Amati, but getting there. 

 

Oh man, don't worry about it - bulid away, build away!!!  the DB will come =)

 

You are doing a fantastic jobo on this project, the planking looks fine and the chest is terrific.   This should be outstanding when finished.

 

Nicely done sir nicely done.

 

post-61-0-37474400-1415675538.jpg

-Adam

 

Current Builds

Santa Maria - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

MayFlower - Model Shipways (5/32"=1') POB
Blue Shadow - Mamoli Revolutionary War Brigantine. (Fict) (1:64) POB (Recommissioned as the Kara June)

 

On The Shelf Waiting so Patiently

USRC Ranger - Corel (1:50) POB

18th Century Longboat - Model Shipways (1:4) POF

La Nina - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

U.S Brig Syren - Model Shipways (1:64) POB

 

Completed Builds

Phantom NY Pilot Boat - Model Shipways (1:96) Solid Hull

 

Decommissioned Builds
(Time and conditions were not good to these. They have been cancelled =( )

Willie L Bennett - Model Shipways (1:32) POF
USRC Harriet Lane - Model Shipways (1:128) Solid Hull

 

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Yes, you are doing a fantastic job. If you have the same experience I did, your last plank will have to be made from sheet stock, as the supplied plank was too small. Having this plank underneath the hull is a great idea.

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TKS Tom, Adam.

 

I've noticed that several of the planks are not quite as wide as the tick marks on the forms, so that's probably why that shutter plank is not quite wide enough.  Also noticed just this morning that plank #7 (4th from the sheer) is actually too close to the exact length needed.  Since my "homemade transom" is just a little thicker than the original, I came up about 1/32 short, but I can deal with that by sanding back (with a block) the transom.   :P

 

New pics tomorrow after I install my fifth plank.  I've turned the bilge so should be easier from here (I hope) :10_1_10:

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Well, decided to take pics before I attach the 5th plank (which is actually the kit named shutter plank).

 

PORT SIDE

 

post-12441-0-52835000-1415745085_thumb.jpg

 

STARBOARD

 

post-12441-0-82960000-1415745091_thumb.jpg

 

And last but not least the BOW

 

post-12441-0-44387200-1415745078_thumb.jpg

 

Clicking on the image will give you the larger version for a better look.

 

Comments/Critiques/Suggestion are ALL welcome.

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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HELP!!!!!

 

I think I might have created a problem for myself.  I'm down to the last 3 planks and I've noticed that the plank(s) are not laying flat against form 3.  Fitting everywhere else great, but appears to be "raised" at that form.  

 

Can't get a picture because I have to get too close and can't do it with the camera I have.

 

I think the problem is the fairing of the frames/forms but not sure.  SO..........I created this little image (go ahead and laugh if you want, I'm know I'm not an artist   :D )

 

When fairing the frames/bulkheads/forms should I be fairing in the direction(s) indicated by image A or image B.

 

I had some of this same issue when fairing the Longboat, that's what makes me think that I'm fairing wrong.  When I fair these things I use the pattern as shown in image A, and use the batten the same way, following that curve of the keel.

 

But after two boats (well, actually 1 1/2 boats), and realizing that the planks actually run basically fore to aft, and NOT following the curve of the keel, I think I SHOULD be fairing as indicated by image B.

 

Again,  HELP!!!!!

 

post-12441-0-22453500-1416019931_thumb.jpg

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Hmmm ... 

Interesting point you bring up, Pops. Without having given it too much thought at the time, I'm fairly sure that I would have followed Image A in the past ...

And I have usually had difficulties getting the planking to sit right. Although, with the Launch, this had more to do with me flipping planks the wrong way around, rather than any problems with the frame fairing.

Edited by CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

Website:          The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve

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