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sport29652

Rattlesnake by sport29652 - Model Shipways - 1:64

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So this will be my 3rd build and my first model shipways kit. Up front I am impressed with the supplied kit. After inventory the any issue was some broken or bent cannons. I have read extensively about model shipways customer service so we will see how that works out. Oh yea and just to let everyone know up front I am an absolute F.U.N.G. So most of the proper terms for the parts of the ship are beyond me, but I am learning. Makes me wish I had payed a little more attention about navel history during boot camp. So here we go ! post-1401-0-09857400-1362104621_thumb.jpgpost-1401-0-08455000-1362104658_thumb.jpgpost-1401-0-29742600-1362104736_thumb.jpg

Edited by sport29652

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So far have put together the keel, stem, and stern post. Working on the rabbit to get it to the 1/16 depth. Is it better to short rather than too deep? It would seem that you could sand down the planks if the rabbit was not deep enough, but too deep you would have a dip in the plank?post-1401-0-26776200-1362105091_thumb.jpgpost-1401-0-05115900-1362105141_thumb.jpg

Edited by sport29652

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Best of luck with your build.  I did a kitbashed version of this for my last model.  The cannons that came with yours look a lot different than the ones that came with my kit 6 or 7 years ago.  They seem to be using some sort of casting now that looks a lot lower quality.  You should definitely get in touch with Model Expo - they have a really good reputation for replacing inadequate parts.  I'm  looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

In terms of depth of the rabbet, you probably want to be consistent along the length. It doesn't have to be exactly 1/16, but don't go so shallow or deep that you can't make up the difference when you sand.  You should be able to get it pretty close.  having it the same depth on both sides will help you keep it symmetric.

 

Dave

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Hi Sport -- It's always good to another Rattlesnake build.  I'm working on the rigging of mine, which is a Mamoli kit, and I've bashed it (at least somewhat).  It's nice looking model with really good lines, and the quarter deck gives it the appearance of a small frigate, so as you progress you'll find it taking on a very impressive appearance.  And you'll also find MSW to be a great place for help and support. 

 

I second what Dave says about the rabbet.  If you get as close to 1/16 as you can, AND keep it consistent, you'll have a much easier time when you're planking.

 

I'll be looking forward to your progress..

 

Cheers,


Martin

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Thanks for the input I'll take my time and get that rabbit right. Basswood Is super soft and bland, has anyone used a different wood for the deck. I have swiss pear and want to do the deck in this but it's 1/32 thick (laminate). So would you put down the bass wood then the pear? Would this cause a thickness issue in the deck ? the pear is too thin on its own and would probably end up dipping between bulkheads

Edited by sport29652

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Started looking and comparing my keel against the plans and low and behold the keel appear I be 1/8" shorter than the plans. So do I sweat this ? Either way I line it up it appears that each half is shorter than the given plans. So I am hoping that this is a planned mistake by ms. Anyone else see this on theirs?post-1401-0-67895100-1362268511_thumb.jpg

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I'm seeing the same misalignment, and several others, on the same model. I'm a little ahead of you (painting the transom window frames before installing them), and I've seen significant misalignments on the bulkhead slots, transom side supports, and stern carving (that one is mentioned in the instructions, but still annoying). I've been posting progress photos and notes on tumblr. You might pick up a few tips, or learn from my mistakes, here. At the moment, I'm trying to figure out some of the details of painting on the transom, and I've found google image searches for "rattlesnake stern" to be very helpful.

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Just took at look at your log and I am having All the same issues. I completed my rabbit and am dry fitting the bulkheads. So the reference line matches up we'll........ But the bulk heads at the deck don't line up flsh with the top of the keel. Judging by your build you sanded the bulkhead slots so they would

Line up with the keel? Kinda hard to tell, did u keep that lined up? Love your build log will defiantly mark it and follow your build oh yea broke my first bulkhead today "G" basswood is soo soft. I can see many oh sh$&@t moments to comepost-1401-0-13641200-1362460131_thumb.jpg so far bulkhead b is the only one the line up all around. C through G are all about 1/16 or so high. The bottom of the bulkhead lines up beautifully with the rabbit. If I lower the bulkheads to flush with the keel I will also throw off the lines and top of the side rails, and sure the list goes on. Shim the keel seems like easiest soulution, easy probably mean a huge mess later on. Any ideas hit me with em

Edited by sport29652

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Ahoy Sport29652 :D

 

Just found your log.

 

The bulkheads are not a big deal. Stick with the reference lines, shim and sand them so they are correct. Just make sure your lines are right. The hull being off an 1/8" I am not sure about. This may cause problems down the road when you need to take measurements from the plans. It would equal 8" on the real ship. Model Expo will replace it no charge if that has to happen.

 

Realize that this project could take you 500 hours so do not rush right now or it will just take longer.

 

I would suggest you wait for some others to respond before you mount the bulkheads. I will send some PM's. Work on something else, cannons, deck furniture, masts, cleaning up the Britannia.

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I would not worry as much if the parts do not match the plans exactly. Work with the parts you have build the model using the plans as a guide. At the end of the day, you will want to work the model. Chances are those plans have some distortion in them as well as there being some issues with how the plans were redrawn for laser cutting.

 

As for the rabbet, cutting it a little shallow is okay. You can improve the depth etc as you begin fitting the bulkheads and planking. Get the rabbet close and then adjust as necessary.

 

Get the bulkheads to match the top of the profile former and then shim alogn the bottom near the keel as necessary. You need that deck line to match up. The rest can be fixed.

 

Good luck and have fun.

 

Russ

Edited by russ

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Hi, Id have to agree with Russ, the plans could be distorted - is there a scale bar on the plans that you can check with a ruler to see if thats where is issue is?

The Rattlesnake I believe is one of MS older designs compared to the current Syren/Confederacy kits which have superb plans and instructions so it could indeed be an issue with the scale plans, I would not worry about it and build with what you have unless you see more problems.

 

ben

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Hi Eric -- in my vast experience of, ahem, TWO models, I had to do a lot of adjusting with just about every bulkhead.  In fact with both kits, at least one bulkhead came broken, and I had to cut a new one.  Sanding and dry-fitting at this stage is probably simply a necessity.  But care will pay off.

 

I'll be keeping track of your progress -- it's looking good.

 

Martin

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martin and ben, thanks for encouragement guys, I am definatly in the take your time mode with this build so far. fairing the hull and shims, fair again more shims and on and on. I guess what was hard in the begining was having to fix mistakes that I didnt make, but im over that now and looking at it as a challange with no shortage of wood or time.

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quick update, e mailed model expo with the issue  I have with the two cannons I recieved in the kit. Recieved an e mail back the next day informing me that they are replacing the cannons and with in 10 days recieved my replacements. wish more companies were like this. I am absoutly impressed with their customer service and will be a life long customer.

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All bulkheads installed, added balsa stiffeners (not glued in place yet). post-1401-0-30827000-1363921211_thumb.jpgpost-1401-0-18330800-1363921267_thumb.jpg

Keel is straight and still have faring to do. At this point I have added numerous shims on the bulkheads to eliminate dips. Also used shims to bring the keel level with the deck. So far things "look" good, we will see if the ship gremlins visit me later in the build.post-1401-0-96335700-1363921591_thumb.jpg

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Eric:

That looks like good alignment. If the deck is leveled out and the outer edges of the bulkheads will fair up, that is what really matters. Good work so far.

 

Russ

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That looks really good, Eric.  Do you plan to put filler blocks in the bow?  I found that helped a lot when it came to bending the planking.

 

Keep at it,

 

Martin

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Thanks guys, yes at any and every point I will reinforce the hull. I look at the basswood wrong and it breaks. Has anyone used beams to reinforce the quarterdeck or the forecastle (don't think it's the right term). As I see it it should not interfere with the construction right ?

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Ahoy Eric :D 

 

For now, I would just tape the basswood pieces back in to protect the deck supports. I am now replacing them on my build, as I have broken all but one.

 

Some multible times :( 

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i am working on the MS Rattlesnake.  i had the same problems with the plans vs the real parts.  i just adjusted as close as i could but did not try to be perfect.  i think that after the model is done, a few mm here or there wont be important as long as the overall product is pleasing to the eye.  right now im planking the hull and so far, ok.  i did buy some 4¨x 24¨x1/16¨ basswood boards so i could do some spilling.  i also bought square stock at home depot for the masts so i could get the octagonal parts done.  shaped them using my hand drill and sandpaper.  so far im happy.  im taking my time and building slow.  have to be in the mood for building!

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Installed transom, bow filler blocks and hull stiffeners. As I look to fair the hull I look back at the initial fairing I did prior to installing the bulkheads and wish I hadn't. The lines for fairing on the blueprints don't quite match the angles presented by my hull. Well live and learn. More shims, and stern filler blocks to do. Thanks Juan for the advice, when I bought this model I had the impression I would be assembling a precision cut hull, again live and learn and try to make it as pleasing to the eye as possiblepost-1401-0-26819500-1364658671_thumb.jpg

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Ahoy Eric :D

 

Do not despair. Welcome to model shipbuilding.

 

The logs I read here on MSW seem to imply issues such as these are not uncommon when it comes to kits. You do have a choice. You can do the research and build a true scale representation of the ship, build the kit version or a compromise between the two. A great aspect of this hobby.  

 

If you choose the scale version, I wish you the best, as I can offer little help in this endeavor. On the other two options, as someone in the same boat I can offer this.

 

The Ratt being a single planked hull, it is very important that battens follow a path that will allow planks to traverse the hull without crowding, conflict and on the right path. On my build, I spent hours tuning the bulkheads. I found that minor adjustments to the bulkheads could really alter the path of a batten. A small elevation or reduction on Bulkhead “D” made a big difference where the batten crossed Bulkhead “A” or met the stem. Using belt positions marked on the stem, stern and every bulkhead, I laid the 1/32 gunwale planking across the hull paying attention to how it wanted to run. On my first attempts, I tried to force the batten to conform. This was a mistake. It was only by paying attention to where the batten wanted to go that I was able to (by much trial and error BTW) determine which bulkhead needed adjustment. I hope this helps.

 

PS: I also put a filler along the path of the first plank, which I faired to the hull. This allowed me to put my first plank on a solid surface similar to a double-planked hull.  I felt this helped me to get a good start. Good luck.

 

Your build is looking great too.

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Guys could you take a look at this stern filler block. JPelt mentioned that it should not end at a 90 degree angle into the rabbit. So a smooth curve into the transom ? post-1401-0-22816600-1364686048_thumb.jpg

post-1401-0-81037400-1364686101_thumb.jpg

Edited by sport29652

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The shape of the filler looks pretty good so far. Still needs some fairing though. You are on the right track with it. The bottom planks will curve up to end at that horizontal line at the transom. Along the side, you need to smooth it out from the end of the last frame through the transom. 

 

Russ

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Ahoy Eric :D

 

I am with Russ, The filler needs a little more. The transom looks great

 

I posted mine three times before it was approved "LOL"

 

The planks need to run into the rabbet, not curve into it

 

"Use the batten Luke"

Edited by JPett

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Eric,

I will follow your build closely, I have the Kit in my stash, but alas my Admiral said "No snakes in my house" so it waits its turn.

 

runner63

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Thanks guys I sanded more, looks like it will hit the rabbit as straight as possible now. I left a little fudge room and if I need to sand a little more once I plank it, it will be minimal. Fairing so far is slow.

Started using basswood shavings from my hand plane as shims for the smaller differences in the hullpost-1401-0-36289900-1364793632_thumb.jpgpost-1401-0-80573500-1364793940_thumb.jpg

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The filler and transom look much better now. You can take some of the planking and hold it up against several frames and see how the fairing goes. Fairing is a long process of sand, check with a pank, sand some more, fill, check with a plank and so forth.

 

Russ

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Hi Eric -- I think your fairing looks good!  That was a place that I found pretty tricky on my R-snake because of the severity of the curves.  In the end I sacrificed a few strakes by soaking & bending them in place without actually gluing, just so I could see how they would end up moving.  JPett is right that little variations can have a surprising effect that you don't know about at first.  So slow and steady wins the day.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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