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Niagara by jwhineryjr - Model Shipways


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Hello to all. I am a long time reader but first time posting a build log. My first wooden ship model was from Scientific America and was built back in 1978 for my father in-laws new office. Since that time I continued building ships every couple of years until the hobby shop I used closed its doors.  In 2002 I found Model-Expo and started building again.  Like most builders I started with solid hulls then progressed to POF and POB models.  Then I started doing kit bashing and small from scratch models.  Until the Niagara I had never built a ship with a hull bigger than 16”.  Anyway I hope I can do justice to this forum and build.

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Here we go.  The center keel along with the stem, keel and sternpost assembled. I’ve drawn all the reference lines on the center keel and bulkheads including the bearding line.  I cut the rabbit into the center keel using 60 grit sandpaper glued to a small piece of wood (3/8 x 3/8 x 2 inches). Now it’s time to prepare the bulkheads and square them up to be glued. I will be using Model Shipway’s Fair-a-Frame to help with this.

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Wow I wonder if you were one of the people who I was bidding against on ebay, or perhaps those other new Niagara kits popping up.

I tried to win the bid on this kit for over a month, but it always seemed to just go abouve my budget for my first ship of this size. I to

I look forward to seeing.your progress as Im praying Santa claus puts one under the tree for me this year.

in his dust RevKB

"Smooth seas make for poor sailors"

"Hebrews 6:19  Which hope we have as an anchor of the soul, both sure and steadfast..." 

 

In His Dust RevKB

 

RattleSnake Build 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8288-rattlesnakecormorant-by-revkb-1780-1786/?p=246048

 

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Hi RevKB,  I know what you mean about trying to buy this kit.  I got mine directly from Model Expo when it was on sale for $149.  Plus I had a discount code and a credit from a previous build for free kit (Sultana) so I was able to get it for almost nothing.  If it hadn't been for all those circumstances happening at the same time I too would be still waiting to purchase this kit.

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The bulkheads have been glued in place making sure each bulkhead’s reference line matches the one on the center keel. Once the bulkheads were installed, I tacked a temporary batten to each side of the hull just below the deck then measured the spacing between each port and starboard bulkhead until the hull was aligned. Then I cut permanent struts from 3/16 x 3/16 stock and placed them between each bulkhead close to the exterior. I measured to be sure the hull was squared and then glued the struts in place and removed the battens. Next, I will sand the bevels in each bulkhead.

 

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Where did the ''reference lines" that you drew onto the bulkheads come from?  I've been told that the critical reference on a PoB build is the top of the false keel, and that the top of the bulkheads should match as near as perfectly as possible the top of the false keel, and that you can then shim or sand the bottom of the bulkheads to hit the bearding line.  I haven't seen anyone else draw reference lines as you have to align these parts (although it's certainly possible I've just missed it somewhere).

 

I ask because in your photo's it appears that some or your bulkheads will need significant sanding at the top (looks like bulkhead 'D' in one of the photos is quite a bit higher than the top of the false keel) in order to get them to match the false keel at the deck.  If this is indeed the case, correcting it now will be critical to how things turn out later on in the build.

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GuntherMT, if you read Page 10-11 of the instructions (figure 1-1 & 1-5) and on sheet 1 of the plans it explains and shows where to draw the reference line on the center keel and each bulkhead.  Both the top of the bulkhead and the bottom must be aligned between the reference line and bearding line.  Now I don't profess to be an expert but in the few models I've done it's always been that way.  If others that have this model have done it differently then I certainly would like input before going any further which is why I joined the forum as I want this larger model to look proper.  All of the pieces are just tacked together until I'm comfortable with alignment then I do the final gluing so that everything stays put for sanding.  I am reading through other logs for the Niagara here and a couple of other forums trying to glean as much info as possible.

 

John

 

p.s. The instruction book even has a disclaimer that there may be error in size of the bulkheads due to manufacturing glitches (it says all laser cut parts).

Edited by jwhineryjr
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I haven't done this kit John (I'm only on my 2nd build now), I was just curious as I thought that the top of the keel was the 'go to' point for bulkhead alignment, and then you adjusted the bottom of the bulkheads with shims or sanding.

 

I'll have to download the Niagra plans from ME and take a look at what you are saying.  Thanks!

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Looking good John. I am running just behind you with the a same build. I just wish a had more time to build. I haven't had a chance to update my log the last couple of days. I will be following you right along if you don't mind. I too got my kit on sale for $149 at M Expo. 

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I am waiting for my Niagara to arrive in the mail. I also ordered the Fair-A-Frame from Model Expo. This will be my first static wood kit, although I have successfully built with wood when doing R/C planes and boats. I am following your build log and will be watching with great interest.

"Any officer can get by on his sergeant. To be a sergeant you really have to know your stuff. I'd rather be an outstanding sergeant than just another officer." - SgtMaj Daniel J. Daly, USMC, 1921.

 

 

:piratebo5:Tom  :piratebo5:

   

Current Builds:

 

1. Revell's 1/96 USS Constitution 

 

2. Model Shipways 1/64 Niagara 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Okay, I think I’ve hit a bit of a road block with the shaping of the stern. Adding the Quarter timbers and shaping the corners is also giving me issues with respects to installing the waterway.  It doesn’t sit flush,  Now I could gouge out a pathway so that it sits flush on the bulkhead or I could bend it slightly to follow the lines of the corner filler block. Of course as many before I have broken and glued all these pieces more times than I can count and finally contacted Model Expo for replacement Stern Timbers, filler blocks and Bulkhead Q. In the meantime I am reworking that bulkhead to see if I can get it closer to what it’s actually supposed to look like.

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How does the Fair-A-Frame work out for you? I bought one, newbie that I am. I've seen in several posts that it's a waste of money and time. I'm yet to start building my Niagara (my first wooden ship kit) and I'm wondering if I should even put the jig together.

Edited by SgtSki in MI

"Any officer can get by on his sergeant. To be a sergeant you really have to know your stuff. I'd rather be an outstanding sergeant than just another officer." - SgtMaj Daniel J. Daly, USMC, 1921.

 

 

:piratebo5:Tom  :piratebo5:

   

Current Builds:

 

1. Revell's 1/96 USS Constitution 

 

2. Model Shipways 1/64 Niagara 

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SgtSki in MI,

 

I bought mine about 8 years ago. and really didn't find it to be as reliable as proclaimed.  I use the base to hold the center keel in place and usually one of the end  frames to square it up.  When installing the bulkheads I use blocks to square them with the center keel while I tack them in place with glue.  Hope that helps.

 

John

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Something to watch out for if you are not aware, lasers don't cut parts square. They have a taper. You can see it here in one of my early posts.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7452-us-brig-niagara-by-laxet-model-shipways/page-9#entry231189

I can see some of this in your transom & may be part of your problem.

Edited by Laxet
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Well, I've reworked the transom and it appears to be much closer to the way it should be. I finally received the replacements parts from ME but I think I'll hold off on redoing the transom from the beginning for the moment.  Maybe work on faring the hull a bit and see how it looks.  Any and all feedback would be greatly appreciated..

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Edited by jwhineryjr
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John, your stern framing looks great and on target. I don't see any real problems with it standing out. If I may, and in my opinion only, the filler blocks look like they could use a touch more sanding to cut down on the extreme bend of the hull planking when they butt into the corner of the counter and keel (maybe not the right word?), but other than it all looks awesome. I wouldn't worry about reworking your stern.

Thanks,

 

Patrick

 

YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio

Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara

Current: I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54

 

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday"

- John Wayne

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Sanded the filler blocks some more to knock down the sharp bend from the bulkhead to the transom.  Still needs a little more but I think I'll wait until I start planking the transom to get a better feel for how much more sanding is needed.  I got the timberheads and knightheads along with the top stiffener in place.  Going to finish fairing the hull and work on the waterway and planksheer on both sides.

 

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John,

Your work looks very good. Congratulations on a great start.

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

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John, sweet work on the timberheads and knightheads! The stern filler pieces are looking excellent as well.

Thanks,

 

Patrick

 

YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio

Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara

Current: I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54

 

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday"

- John Wayne

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had some time today to work on fairing the hull and other hull issues. I found I had to add some filler to the tops of the bulkhead timberheads to match the measurements on the plans. Now I’m trying to work out the frames on the gun and sweep ports and not enjoying it at all.


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Edited by jwhineryjr
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