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I recently obtained a quantity of Boxwood. I actually rescued it from a container of "firewood",the average length of the pieces is around 9" with a diam ranging from 3/4" to 2 1/4". It still has the bark on. I bought a bandsaw today so what would be the best way to cut it for modelling purposes ? I was thinking of just cutting it into slices or is it better to leave well alone until required ? The tree was cut down around 18 months ago so I reckon it should be ok to use.

 

Thank you,

 

Dave :dancetl6:

 

Mods,if this in the wrong thread please move it.

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A table saw is not necessarily your best tool.   Your bandsaw is better.  But you probably also will want a thickness sander.

Your wood is essentially seasoned.  You need to get it into flat from the round.

1)  If you band saw is large enough,  you will not be sorry for using this blade: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx?utm_source=iContact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Wood%20News&utm_content=THW+5   - but only use it for resawing - which is what you will be doing.

2)  You need to fix the log to a carrier board to keep it from rolling.  The board needs to be flat and have one straight edge - to ride against the fence.  An easy way to fix the log - use right angle 2x4 braces from a big box building supply place and wood screws - one on each end of the log  and at least one on the back side.   Having room for this pretty much tells you how large the carrier board has to be.  You can use short screws to attach the braces to the board, so 1/2 inch ply might do, but 3/4 inch is probably better.

3)  The size you produce - it depends.  If you have an immediate need, that is your thickness.  Otherwise - decide on a raw stock size to slice your your final planks from.  I like 1 to1.5  inch thick - as wide as I can get.

 

The Wood Slicer blade cuts a thinner kerf than most table saw blades and the finish is almost as smooth as what a hollow ground table saw produces.  You are also less likely to get unwanted digit amputation with a band saw.  A thickness sander is also safer way to get thickness precision.  It is probably a toss up between a Byrnes saw and the band saw for cutting the final width of deck planks.  For hull planks - if you do them correctly - the final width will come from your table sander - since there is spilling involved.  We are not building a house, most everything is curved.

 

Now that you have a band saw, look at this for turning it into a stable jig saw. http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer

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Brian C and Jaager,

 

Thank you for your replies gentlemen. I cut up a couple of pieces today after setting up the saw and am quite happy with the result but will try to obtain a blade with a finer tooth count. I do have the small Proxxon table saw which is adequate for my purpose. A Byrnes saw and thicknesser are outside my finances unfortunately.

 

Kind regards,

 

Dave :dancetl6:

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For resawing, it is not the number of teeth that counts.  3 teeth per inch will do.  The Wood Slicer is thinner, has stronger steel and the teeth have almost no set.  The key is the tooth shape - it is technical.  A fine tooth blade will probably have too much set and not be efficient in wood removal thru thick stock.  The gullet will fill with sawdust before it get thru the wood and stop cutting. The set will leave a rough surface.  Look for a blade designed for resawing.

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Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.

 

Regards,

 

Dave :dancetl6:

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