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HMS Racehorse by medic - Sergal Mantua - 1:47

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Thanks mate,

Please take some of the credit along with AndyW.

I'm using your build logs as my reference. Got to say as this is my very first build I'm spending a lot of time scratching my head and thinking "how the" did they do that? Hope to post again this weekend feel free to comment and guide me.

 

Right back everyone with a big Happy New Years to you and yours.

 

Cheers

Medic

Edited by medic

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Beautiful job on the planking, I can see one issue an it bugged me no end as it's difficult to overcome.

 

I think the position and number of the forward bullheads are wrong. Nothing to do with your build, cracking job, it's a fault with the kit, just it leaves a severe angle over the frame to the beak.

 

I only see it because it was one of the frustrations that made it go back in the box for 10 years.

 

That was when I decided to get aggressive with the sandpaper, then carefully applied where required some filler then put a third layer of planking on, just to give to my eye a better sweep. This in turn gave a better radius for the Wales. This in the end caused no end of issues to overcome.

 

Do your cut outs on the bulwarks before you varnish. If I was doing this again, I would enlarge them slightly and line them. As in insert a small wood frame contrasting the walnut. Helps finish the edges and contrast works well on a natural finished model.

 

I would suggest a satin varnish, I use ronseal yacht varnish enhances all the wood, three light coats gives enough depth of lustre.

 

The way I look at it is we are not building a historically accurate version of the ship, think I mentioned feel it was a strange choice on the part of the company to build.

 

Brief account of what I know about her beginnings, is that she was a captured 3 masted French Frigate. Apparently she was the wrong size or gun compliment to be classed as a frigate in the RN, so they changed her class and removed a mast. searched for ages trying to find more detailed information .

 

What I am trying to say is enjoy the build, it will look splendid when finished I have no doubt

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Thanks John / Andy,

Happy for the support, I was thinking of just applying one coat of varnish on the hull prior to cutting the gunports (yeah I know no guns) but my nautical vocabulary is somewhat limited, hopefully to protect the planking from dirt and marking etc. What do you think, is the raw sanded timber at significant risk of marking? Or is this just a waste of time?

Cheers

Medic

Edited by medic

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Not so much marking but will help seal it against staining.

 

Myself I completed all the deck fittings, you want your glues to be absorbed and add strength, so unless I'm wrong I don't see any harm in giving the outer hull a protective coat.

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Thanks Andy,

The chance of a stain when I'm handling it, or my kids grotty little fingers is making me edgy. I'll post the result over the weekend.

Cheers

Medic

Edited by medic

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So I've applied a single coat of a combination stain/satin varnish more to protect finish against dirty marks and stains while I'm continuing work. Once I've cut the gun ports I intend putting a couple more coats on the hull.

 

 I've now moved onto the deck and have used an 8b pencil on the edges of the planks to highlight joints.

 

My question now is what is the best way to finish the deck off when I varnish? I'm thinking sanding will just leave grey smears. Is there an alternative?

 

In terms of the finished product most of the decks I've been looking at seem to have a clear varnish without any stain pigment. Is this correct or should I go with something very light?

Cheers

Medic

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I used straight satin yacht varnish for both hull and deck.

 

Reason being I wasn't wanting to weather or create more authenticity but just enhance the beauty of the wood.

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