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Red Dragon Chinese Junk by Carmelo5150 - Artesania Latina - Scale 1 : 60

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Carmelo,A nice clean beginning,I got the same model for xmas from the Admiral,A few months ago another model  maker started a log of the same junk,which I admired hence the gift,The admiral said your build is very tidy,I concur,Edwin.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Started on the hull lining. The instructions suggest you use contact cement. I used quick dying ( cyanoacrylate ) on one side and white glue ( carpenter's ) on the other side for just a couple of strips and found they both work. Is there any specific reason you would need a specific adhesive ? Just curious.



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Hi Carmello,  I've used all three before, cyano is faster but if you get it on the outside of the plank it can stain the wood, so, not good if you are going for a natural finish use with caution.  Carpenters glue works very well but is slow to dry and needs clamping, Contact cement does work well, I used to use it but it is a bit stinky to work with. If you go to contact cement practice on some scrape first to get the hang of it,  you want to get a thin even coating on both sides. best of luck you planking job, everything looks good so far.

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I've found that I regular wood glue - Tite-bond original to be specific - for almost everything now.  There is a technique that you can use to get it to bond nearly as quickly as CA, but without the fumes and potential wood staining of the CA.


1) Put a very thin coat of glue on the piece to be added (plank) and set it aside.


2) Apply a slightly thicker coat of glue to the hull (or wherever piece 1 is going to go).


3) Usually by the time I'm done with step 2, the glue on piece 1 is almost completely dry due to the super thin coat.


4) Place the first piece in place and apply with as much pressure as possible without breaking something.


Not sure how the science behind this bonding works, but doing it this way my planks almost immediately stick in place and set enough to remain in position without clamping after only a minute or two of pressure.  When possible to do so without marring the appearance, I tend to still use clamps to hold the piece in place while I'm working on shaping the next piece, but it's often not needed at all except near the bow where the bend tends to make life a bit more difficult.


I also have not put a single hole into my final planking layer using this technique, I'll use little pins with collars on them to hold planks into position without putting them through the final plank layer, only next to them.


Here is a picture of the pins/clamps I mostly use for the hull planking (I also have some regular 'plank clamps' you can buy from MicroMark or ME for really difficult planks that require longer term clamping with more pressure).



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  • 1 month later...

I sprayed the hull with shellac before attaching the false deck. To keep it together more than anything else. The lining is very fragile and tends to splinter at the edges.

P.S. : Fingerprint scanners do not work after a few hours of model building. ( lesson learned ). lol





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  • 2 weeks later...

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