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US Brig Oneida by rlb - The Lumberyard - (POF) 1:48 scale - 1809 Lake Ontario Warship


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As I get underway with the continuation of this build log, I will hopefully be able to include some past photos.  I've discovered that all my model photos prior to 2013 reside (I hope) on an old hard drive that is no longer attached to my computer.  I had to replace the motherboard last year, and the new one didn't support the old hard drive.  So it may be a while before I can retrieve those photos.

 

 

This model of Oneida will represent the brig as she was armed in 1813, with sixteen 24 pounder carronades and two 6 pounder long guns.  I also hope to fully rig her, but time will tell!

 

Here is the current state of the model--

 

Oneida02-10-2013railsdone2_zpsb94af273.j

 

 

This post is a bit of a placeholder at the moment but I should have some more to add soon. 

 

Ron

 

 

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Old business:  I have an adapter part on order so that I can put my old hard drive in my new computer, and retrieve all the old photos.

 

New business:  I have a tough time, sometimes, with the "leave well enough alone" concept.  The wale on my Oneida has been bothering me since I first put it on, almost three years ago.  At the time I was confused about the meaning of this line on the Chapelle drawing:

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix1_zps50f7dee5.jpg

 

 

My interpretation (keep in mind I knew next to nothing, and couldn't find much info) was that it marked a difference in the wale between a strake of "straight" planking above the line, and top and butt planking below.  How silly.  But that's the way I built it.

 

 

I now believe (having seen a little more of the shipbuilding world) that it indicates a change in the thickness of the wale.  Below is a sketch of the wale as built, with a dashed green line showing how I think it should have been built--

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix2_zps4c56b0f2.jpg

 

 

I just couldn't leave this alone, so work was begun to change it--

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix3knife_zps088f1603.jpg

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix4blade_zpsd3e727b1.jpg

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix5chisel_zps6823df06.jpg

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix6chisel2_zpsc336b6ee.jpg

 

 

Looks pretty ragged here--

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix6arough_zpsdbca710f.jpg

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix7sand_zps9260fa17.jpg

 

 

But better after sanding--

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix8readystain_zpsdba9ff82.jpg

 

 

During the staining process--

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix9stained_zpsbb9e6dba.jpg

 

 

And the result after one coat of finish--

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix10done1_zps5cb30bda.jpg

 

 

I probably didn't take it down quite far enough, but I'm satisfied that at least the difference is there now--

 

Oneida02-15-2013Walefix11done2_zps893a067f.jpg

 

 

There's not much rhyme or reason sometimes to the things I "need" to fix, and the things I let go.  This one fell in the former category but now I'm happy and I can move on!  

Ron

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Thanks, Chuck.  Thank you for your dedication to MSW, it's amazing how quickly it's rebuilding!

 

Ben, John, Christian, thanks.  I do hope to be able to put back at least the pictures, from the past.

 

Remco, Håkan, I was very nervous about this fix.  In my post I mixed photos from the port and starboard sides, but I did the port side first--that is the side that I expect to be toward a wall when the model is done and I figure out where to display it!   I tested out my method on that side, all the way to applying finish, and learned a few things, to try differently on the starboard side.   The two things I was most concerned with were keeping a crisp straight line with the cutting away, and the stain bleeding into the bulwark planking.  The stain wasn't a problem  as long as I took care with the brush.  But the straight line was difficult.  There were sections where the wale was glued seamlessly, and I had trouble maintaining a good line there and sometimes where there were the end joints in the wale planking below the line.

 

Ron

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Thanks, Robert, Patrick, and Clay!

 

In between checking out everyone else's "new" logs this afternoon, I managed to make some cleats. 

 

Hoping to make it easier to get them somewhat uniform, I tried this method:

 

 

I cut a spare strip of planking stock into appropriate lengths.  These were glued up (with Elmers white glue aka PVA) into "blocks" of six at a time--

 

Oneida02-17-2013cleats1_zpsb15488fb.jpg

 

 

The block of cleats was then shaped to the basic profile using sandpaper, chisels and files--

 

Oneida02-17-2013cleats2_zps85f330b4.jpg   

 

 

Isopropyl alcohol weakens the glue--

 

Oneida02-17-2013cleats3_zpsb6eaf154.jpg

 

 

And they are separated back into individual pieces for fine-tuning with a file--

 

Oneida02-17-2013cleats4_zpsbda8d286.jpg

 

 

I need two different sizes--here's a shot of some of the rough "blanks" including two finished cleats--

 

Oneida02-17-2013cleats5_zpseee069da.jpg

 

 

Ron

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Russ, if one had a milling setup, this method could work even better.  By hand, in my imagination at least, it saves some time!

 

Don, Oneida is a great kit for someone who would like to test the waters of scratch bulding, but may not feel confident about jumping in fully (that describes me exactly).  For another thing, if you don't have a power jig-saw, the laser cut frame pieces, deck beams and knees will save you a ton of time over cutting them out by hand. The plans, on-line instructions, and laser cut framing are adequate to complete a basic model, but if you want to take it a step further--as many Oneida builders seem to do--be ready to invest a lot more time in research and yes, scratch-building.   In that case you will very quickly leave the kit plans and instructions behind.   I'm very thankful to Dave for making this kit available, and he's been very willing to customise it for whatever woods you'd like to use.  Just be aware that not everything is spelled out in the manner of a Chuck Passaro kit!!

 

Ron

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Thanks, Elia.  It's good to be building again.

 

Thanks, Patrick.  The gluing and ungluing works well with pear, a very hard wood.  I'm not sure it would work as well with something softer, like basswood, for example.  With basswood filing and sanding go much faster, so it might end up being easier just to do them individually, in that case.  I don't know.

 

 

I'm working toward making and installing everything that needs to go on the inner bulwarks.  Part of that task is drilling the rest of the carronade eyebolt holes.

 

 

Marking the spots with a pin--

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt1pin_zps5e98182a.jpg

 

 

And drilling.  For most of these, I need to work through the ports on the opposite side.  It's also important to do this before any structures are built up on the deck--

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt2drill_zps4e9a82db.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

I ran out of eyebolts previously, so it's now time to make some more.   The smallest I found to buy are not small enough.  I'm sure the right size is available somewhere, but I've not minded making my own.  It would probably be better to work up a jig to do these, but (and this is bad) I'm usually very lazy when it comes to making jigs.  Or maybe I have jig-phobia.

 

In any event here's my method for these.  I'm using soft brass wire, 24 gage.

 

 

Grip the very end in round nose pliers, and twist all the way around--

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt3step1_zpsff2ecba1.jpg

 

 

Until you end up with this--

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt4step2_zps8f25e9a7.jpg

 

 

Take the wire out, and re-grip so you can twist back the other way-- 

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt6step3_zps81a919bb.jpg

 

 

Something like this--

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt7step4_zpsca095d4d.jpg

 

 

And end up with this. This is the most crucial step. If I don't get this result, I just cut it off and start over. You need to end up with an off-center loop that is slightly open--

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt8step5_zps9cf82f51.jpg

 

 

Grip the loop with regular needle-nosed pliers and carefully twist back to center the loop. If you do it right the loop closes up and gets even smaller--

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt9step6_zps61b42920.jpg

 

 

Here's the finished eyebolt next to a purchased one--

 

Oneida02-18-2013eyebolt10compare_zps51a20739.jpg

 

 

These take me between 15 and 20 seconds apiece (I could probably do it in 10 if I was really trying hard), though I can only stand to do about 10 at a sitting. I need to make about 100 more.

 

 

Ron

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Hi Ron,
I seen your note regarding files on an old hard drive. Have you considered using a USB docking station to retrieve the files? In case you have not seen one, they simply plug into you USB port and allow you to plug in internal hard drives, outside of your case, kind of like a toaster. Here is a link for one http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS

Just make sure you ck the specs to make sure it works with your PC and the HD you are pulling data from. The cost is very reasonable and they allow you to use old hard drives as an external storage or very simple back up device. I hope this helps...


In respect to your build, it looks impressive.

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Thank you very much for the suggestion, Larry.  As it happens, I already have my other part on the way--it should get here tomorrow. 

 

But even better news!!   Ilhan Gokcay kept a copy of my Oneida log, pictures and text, which I now have.  Thank you, Ilhan!! 

 

I will post at the pictures and reconstruct the log as a timeline with my text.  I'll leave out the responses and miscellaneous chatter.

 

 

 

Ron

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As is common in modern narrative tales, it's now time for a "flashback".    This will be a long one--I didn't realize how many photos there would be.  Fortunately, you can scroll through them at your own desired speed.

 

 

The text is a mostly original, [some new,in brackets] and some material has been edited out.  Old individual posts have been condensed into longer posts here.  A date line shows the separation between the original posts. 

 

On with the show--

 

March 31, 2009

 

Oneida is on order from The Lumberyard. There will be a couple weeks wait for the laser cutting to happen, before the kit gets shipped to me. That’s because I chose to have the framing made with cherry instead of the standard kit Hard Maple. 

As far as the wood choice—Cherry as mentioned for the framing. Swiss Pear for the stem, stern, keel, wales, hull planking and most of the miscellaneous pieces. Maple for the deck planking.  Boxwood for the gun carriages, head rails, and some miscellaneous trim. Masting and rigging is not standard in the kit, but I requested enough square stock to be included—I left the wood choice for that up to Dave, The Lumberyard’s owner, as I didn’t really know what would be best.

I have also written to the Smithsonian Institution for copies of the plans. The hull plan might be redundant, but it’ll be nice to have; and I’ll definitely need the rigging plan.  I believe they are the same plans that appear in Howard Chapelle’s “History of
the American Sailing Navy”.   [Yes, they are.]

As I am raising the bar in many ways to attempt this ship, I have upgraded my tools some. I know power tools aren’t
necessary, but I do have a Proxxon rotary tool, and stand, now. I ordered a drawplate. I have a Swann-Morton handle and blades.

I’m also beefing up my library. I’ve purchased Harold Underhill’s two volumes. I have Lees’ and Petersson’s books on rigging on order. Plenty to read and pore over while I wait to actually start building!

 

 

April 2, 2009

 

I think I will have my hands full with this ship. I wanted to build something with frames, but I didn't want to jump into complete scratch building yet. I considered the [Model Shipways] Emma C Berry, but I am more interested in Oneida. One reason is that she was built and sailed on Lake Ontario, and I grew up near the lake.

As far as the Cherry framing, I understand that it is softer than Hard Maple (which is standard for this kit). I think there will be a lot of sanding and fairing of the hull, and trimming and adjusting of the deck framing. I'm hoping Cherry will be easier to work with than the Maple would have been. I think the Pear will go well with the similar tinted Cherry. Not a big contrast but still noticable. Cherry is also close in price to Maple (at least in North America). Maybe it is not as nice as Pear or Boxwood, but if I wanted either of those for all the framing there probably would have been an upcharge.

 

 

 

April 23, 2009

 

Not much to update here. I'm waiting for the kit to be shipped. It's been almost a month now since I ordered it, but I was forwarned that there would be a few weeks lead time for the laser cutting.

In the meantime I've been gathering resources: some tools, books, photographs of Niagara, which is a very similar, slightly
larger lake brig. I received Oneida's plans from the Smithsonian. This is going to be a fairly big model! The hull is about two feet, and I was forgetting that the bowsprit adds about a foot more.

So there's plenty to do while I wait.  I've also been researching the rigging. I think I need to make lists of the standing and running rigging parts and pieces so I can determine how many blocks and how muchline to buy, what sizes, etc. No rush on that--it'll be quite a while before I get to the rigging, but it'll give me something I can do now.

 

 

 

June 18, 2009

 

I'm still waiting for the kit, but I have been buying rigging line and blocks, and have spent a little time shaping the blocks as you can see below.

On the left is a 6mm block as received, and on the right it has been rounded a bit, and grooves for the strop filed in.

Below them is a 3mm block. It's so small! (There will be some 2mm ones as well.) My strop notch on the small one is a little too heavy, but I have about 200 of these to practice on.

post-69-0-10318100-1361402424_thumb.jpg

 


Hopefully, I'll have some better progress to report before too much longer

 

 

 

July 2, 2009  [Three months after ordering the kit]


After filing patiently (most of the time) about 50 or 60 of the 3mm blocks, I was beginning to think that was all my Oneida would ever be--a little bin of blocks and rigging thread.

Then I noticed that my Credit Card had been charged by The Lumberyard. A few days later the box arrived!

Unpacked on the table--

 

post-69-0-36710400-1361317940_thumb.jpg

 

Everything is there, including the carronades and carriage pieces in plastic bags on the right.


All the frame pieces are laser cut, with all the drawings to make sure you identify everything correctly. I'm starting with the widest frames--

 

post-69-0-84405500-1361317942_thumb.jpg

 

 

The keel pieces laid out--

 

post-69-0-49568400-1361317945_thumb.jpg

 

 

And my first glued piece, on the stem--  [such a humble start, and, much later, it needed to be unglued and fixed]

 

post-69-0-32959200-1361317948_thumb.jpg

 

 

July 2, 2009

 

I am currently split between two homes. Here's my tiny work area where I will be most of the time. I've brought most of the tools and just a few pieces of wood at a time to work on, in this case two of the frames--

 

post-69-0-36760100-1361317950_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-10840600-1361317952_thumb.jpg

 

 

My attempt to set up a way to sand a flat, perpendicular, smooth face to the ends of the frames. They are charred and have a slight bevel due to the nature of the laser cutting; and they have a ridge where they were attached to the rest of the wood--
 

post-69-0-31408700-1361317953_thumb.jpg

 

 

One frame layed out, one in pieces

 

post-69-0-84407000-1361317954_thumb.jpg

 

 

One frame glued, one gluing--

 

post-69-0-41168600-1361317956_thumb.jpg

 

 

I didn't bring enough clothspins with me this time, and I'm using PVA glue, so I can't really go very fast, but that's alright.
 

 

 

July 3, 2009

 

Here I've taken over another table--current progress, most of the full frames are glued.

 

post-69-0-78896000-1361317957_thumb.jpg

 

 

It went faster than expected. I was able to spend all day on them as I did not have to go to work today.

Now I have to take a step back and do some looking and thinking to make sure I handle the beveled and half-frames correctly.

I also have to set up a board now to hold the keel, and get the keel assembled.

 

 

 

July 4, 2009

 


It's a big step up from a Midwest kit. [John Aldens sloop--a link to photos of the finished model is in my signature] One thing I can say is that you have to be willing to forego the usual kit instructions (though those can vary widely in quality). The only instructions are some that you can download from The Lumberyard site, and unless I'm not looking in the right place, there seem to be some gaps.

I'm hoping that with enough encouragement and help from the gang here I'll make it through the tough spots. Time will tell. [Absolutely true!]

The big selling point for me on the kit was being able to to a framed ship with nice woods,and someone else doing the hard part of drawing and cutting all the frames out. Though you pay for that. Scratch building would be less expensive. That'll probably be the next one.

 

I'm using Elmer's [PVA glue] for the frames. Once I got kind of a system down (by about the seventh frame) they went pretty quickly.

About two thirds of my frames were not quite as tall as the ones drawn. I thought I was doing something wrong
until a batch came out right on, and I hadn't changed anything I was doing. So I'm not sure what's up with that.

 

 

 

July 6, 2009

 

Sanding is slowing me down some.

All the full frames are sided a little too thick, so I'm reducing the ones I've glued so far.

The salt and pepper shakers are not required for the build-- 

 

post-69-0-76613300-1361318068_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Here are all the full frames. The ones in the front on top of the pieces of paper are the full frames that need to be beveled before installing.

In between the frames is the keel and the keelson--

 

post-69-0-74195600-1361318069_thumb.jpg

 

 

All for now. The shipyard workers aren't working tonight. They worked hard over the holiday weekend, and need a rest.
 

 

 

 

July 8, 2009

 

 

I am doing a variety of things now.

1) Assembling the half and cant frames. One particular frame really threw me for a loop. It's so obvious now, but for a while I was digging through the drawing sheets, making sure I had labeled my pieces correctly. They weren't fitting together at all like the drawing. Then I figured it out--the frame pieces were not shortened for the gunport on this frame, though the drawn frame is--

 

post-69-0-71302900-1361318070_thumb.jpg

 

 

2) On the glued up frames that need to be beveled, I'm marking the bevel lines.  I made two copies of each frame drawing, and cut out guides to draw the fore and aft bevels--

 

post-69-0-77835600-1361318071_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-06268900-1361318073_thumb.jpg

 

 

3) Tried out my very rudimentary (perhaps even laughable) engineering skills. I made a surface so that I could use my rotary tool as a mini drum sander--

 

post-69-0-38142600-1361318074_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-41549500-1361318075_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-35055600-1361318076_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-37953400-1361318077_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

July 17, 2009

 

 

The setup with the wood block was good for sanding the char, and evening up the faces, of the non-beveled frames. It did not help with the beveled frames. Even if I had some way of altering the angle of the wood surface, it wouldn't help much because the angle of the bevel is not constant.


With the bevels, I just very carefully held the frame at an angle against the sanding drum, and slowly worked my way along the frame, working in "layers", and checking progress as I went. The char helped here, because it was easy to see when I was getting close to the bottom edge. That's not very clear, this sketch might help--

 

post-69-0-83711100-1361318375_thumb.jpg

 

 

This seemed to work fine, and was pretty fast at getting rid of wood. As long as I was careful, it was fairly easy to control the amount I took off.

 

There was one frame that got away from me, and I did sand away too much. The directions indicate that the frames are cut very full, and will need substantial fairing [so true]. We'll see when I get them glued to the keel whether the one that I overzealously sanded will be a problem.

 

 

 

July 20, 2009

 

 

I was able to work on the ship for a few hours on Sunday.  Here is the work of sanding the bevels on the six forward cant frames and some of the stern half frames--

 

post-69-0-81242500-1361318376_thumb.jpg

 

 

I marked the bevels. This time I did it by eye, looking at the frame drawings.  Also made sure I marked fore and aft on each side. I had to think twice about each one, as the side the bevel is on is opposite between the forward and aft frames--

 

post-69-0-38922400-1361318378_thumb.jpg

 

 

Here is a series of pictures, more than needed, I'm sure, but they show the progress of sanding an outer bevel. With the laser char, it's very easy to see when I'm getting close to the lower edge, which should not be sanded. Also, I did use both hands to hold the piece against the drum--

 

post-69-0-76568800-1361318379_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-86457100-1361318380_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-23594400-1361318382_thumb.jpg

 

 

Here is the under side, showing the thin strip of laser char that I leave at the very edge--

 

post-69-0-31433700-1361318383_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-44983700-1361318384_thumb.jpg

 

 

You get the idea, but here's an inner bevel--
 

post-69-0-22164100-1361318385_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-39335700-1361318386_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Twenty pieces sanded, and a nice little sawdust pile. A sneeze would have had disastrous effects!

 

post-69-0-24190500-1361318713_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-59213700-1361318714_thumb.jpg

 

 

After sanding the bevels, I sanded the sides to the right thickness, most of these frames were very close to what they needed to be. I didn't have to do nearly as much sanding as the full frames required.

Finished and bundled up--

 

post-69-0-64415600-1361318715_thumb.jpg

 

 

I still have about eight frames to sand, and then it's time to fasten them to the keel!

 

 

Ron

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July 27, 2009

 

 

I worked today on the keel, and stem assembly.


First I glued the false keel on--

 

post-69-0-95107200-1361400886_thumb.jpg

 

 

After this set, I sanded a taper in the width of the keel at the bow and stern.



I had previously glued up some pieces of the stem, and now I sanded a taper from top to bottom  [i think now this taper should have carried up the stem, and may still try to work this in before I tackle the head rails]--

 

post-69-0-27798700-1361400877_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-40446900-1361400880_thumb.jpg

 

 

Then I glued the stem to the tapered keel--

 

post-69-0-00686200-1361400884_thumb.jpg

 

 

Here is the taper of the keel at the stern--

 

post-69-0-99600800-1361400887_thumb.jpg

 

 

And the current status of Oneida's "backbone"--

 

post-69-0-96163000-1361400889_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

August 3, 2009

 


I set about cutting the rabbet in the keel.

First I marked the upper and lower edges in pencil--

 

post-69-0-92783900-1361400878_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-04118700-1361400882_thumb.jpg

 

 

I started cutting the rabbet with a v-groove microchisel. My line wobbled all over. With patience and careful work I was able to even it out along the stem.  Along the keel it was not good. I tried a small cabinet scraper, which seemed to be working somewhat to even the sides of the rabbet, but a few times it jumped the groove and put a nice deep scratch on the keel. After this I took the knife and using a straightedge cut a line on the bottom edge of the rabbet and was able to work toward that cut to get a reasonably straight edge. Should have done that line with the knife at the start--

 

post-69-0-40755600-1361400885_thumb.jpg

 

 

At the stern I goofed. The rabbet should have stopped before the end. There is a groove extending all the way to the aft end, but it's not as deep as the full rabbet. I think I will have to cut the end of the keel down to the rabbet line and cut a slightly longer sternpost--

 

post-69-0-27916600-1361401730_thumb.jpg

 

 

The stem looks okay, I need to work a little more on start of the curve down by
the keel--

 

post-69-0-95088600-1361401731_thumb.jpg

 

 

The rabbet will be filled in by the planking, and I'm hoping the slight wobbliness of the lower edge won't be as noticable. The upper edge is very uneven, but that won't be visible. It's also been a good learning experience in preparation for the port side, which will not be planked. I will cut the rabbet on that side, even though it won't be planked, because I like that look.

 

 

Ron

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August 4, 2009

 

 

I am building the carronade slides. Partly because it's fun, and partly because I want an assembled carriage to help fine tune the deck and cap rail heights--

 

post-69-0-60208300-1361403070_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-54878600-1361403072_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-83572900-1361403078_thumb.jpg

 

 

The Carronade slides are boxwood, and this is the first time I've had the pleasure of meeting that hardwood. It sure cleans up nice!

Following is my method for making the "iron" straps that hold the carronades to the carriages. (I'm being lazy at the
moment and not looking up the correct term for either the projection on the carronade or the iron strap.) [trunnion and capsquare]

This is not NEARLY as elegant as "Adrift's Thingy for making Thingies" (try searching that if you didn't see the thread), but it works. [we need this on the new site!]

First I taped a paper clip down, and laid a brass strip over it. The diameter of the paper clip is less than the diameter of the gun part [TRUNNION!!]--

 

post-69-0-05836100-1361403080_thumb.jpg

 

 

Held some flat tipped pliers open just a little over the brass strip.

And pounded the end of the pliers with a hammer!--

 

post-69-0-81244900-1361403080_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-76068600-1361403081_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-65644000-1361403082_thumb.jpg

 

 

Once I was satisfied that this would work, I pounded out a bunch of them--
 

post-69-0-45996700-1361403083_thumb.jpg

 

 

I actually remembered a past lesson, and made a few extra, just in case--

 

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post-69-0-57010700-1361403085_thumb.jpg

 

 

Ron



 

Edited by rlb
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August 5, 2009

 

 

I have to deal with a minor setback on Oneida.

Some of my cherry framing is not cherry. The billet containing frames 12-15 was actually beech, though I didn't figure that out until I had glued the frames up--

 

post-69-0-06870200-1361404472_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-19607600-1361404655_thumb.jpg

 

 

The two woods are very close in color. The beech is just a bit lighter, and the grain has tiny dark flecks, which actually make it look a little like miniature oak. At first I though it was just an unusual piece of cherry, but after a little research I found out it was beech.

A couple months ago, while waiting for my kit to be shipped, I came into contact with a gentleman in Texas who was also waiting for his Oneida.


When I discovered my mismatched frames I shot an email to him, and lo and behold, he had specified his frames in beech! Just last night he checked his kit to see if he had received one billet of cherry frames in place of beech.


It appeared that he had! Alas, his cherry piece contained frames 8-11. We couldn't just exchange frames.

So now I have contacted The Lumberyard for a replacement cherry billet. I can't bear waiting another 3 months to have
it laser cut, so I will have the pleasure of cutting the futtock pieces out by hand.

I also tried in vain to find a big enough area in the leftover parts of the keel/deadwood/sternpost swiss pear billet to cut a longer sternpost. It was so close, but not possible. I will have to buy some more wood to make a new sternpost.

All this explains why I detoured into building the carronade carriages while the hull framing is on hold. I can cut the port
side rabbet while I wait, but I am a little nervous after my less than stellar job on the starboard side.

 

 

 

August 10, 2009

 

 

While I wait to get my mixed up frames resolved, I made some adjustable uprights to hold the keel-stem-stern straight.  These pieces could be made more sturdy, with some 45 degree bracing, but I made sure they were as square as I could make them, and I think they'll do. I can reinforce them if I find it's needed.  [Jeesh, how hard would it have been to add some bracing--sometimes I'm so lazy!]. I ran out of those little rings that the screws sit down in--I'll get some more and then it will look more "polished". My board is barely long enough!  [This was a left-over board from my first model that I wanted to reuse]--

post-69-0-05228200-1361404473_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-94156200-1361404564_thumb.jpg

 

 

If I line up exactly end to end, it looks straight and plumb--

 

post-69-0-79619900-1361404649_thumb.jpg

 

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I cut the keel down to the rabbet line, which now makes my sternpost about 1/16th of an inch too short. I could probably cheat and add some wood to the top of the sternpost, where it might not even be visible. But I'm not sure exactly
how that's going to come together, so I probably will cut a new one. Since I have to wait for the cherry wood for the frames, I might as well get some extra pear for a new sternpost. I also can't seem to locate the wood for the rudder!

I cut the rabbet on the port side. I didn't take any pictures, but it came out about the same as the starboard side which you can see here. It looks fine unless you study it closely!--

 

post-69-0-29459400-1361404652_thumb.jpg

 

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Parts and pieces--

 

post-69-0-10527000-1361404654_thumb.jpg

 

 

The frames with the laser char still on them are the beech frames that I need to replace.

The carronade parts are in the little plastic bottles. I'm held up on those, too. I don't think the front pivot part of the carronade carriage is accurate, and I think I want to do something different than what's supplied in the kit. I need to do some studying of the deck height, waterway and gunport sill heights, and how the front of the carronade sits on the sill.

I might as well file some more blocks while I wait for my replacement wood.


Ron

Edited by rlb
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