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Drazen

De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by Dražen Carić - Scale 1: 45

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Thank you!

 

The number of fittings above the waterline is actually 4. The plans from Lelystad show 6 (2 above the waterline). Still, in long discussions, I went for the original from the paintings - even other ships of the size like Witte Olifant 1666 or smaller have 4 above WL.

 

Below: plan from Lelystad

 

 

Dražen

Heck.jpg

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Just a question if someone can give hints: I am getting cracks in wood due to humidity deviations. Please see my posting here:

 

Drazen

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It is with a great interst that I studied Your presentation. It's a very high-quality, masterly work! I have found many intersting methods and technologies. Thank you very much for sharing your experience. Wishing You inspiration in Your further work.

My best regards.  

 

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Hello Drazen,

 

I'm not much help with your question in that I am a meta kind of guy.  However, a wood preservative comes to mind that may help keep the moisture fluctuation at bay.  Looking at your picture it appears that was a few years ago at an earlier stage of your build and you received 17 comments on it.  Do you still have the cracking problem?

 

Cheers,

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On 1/28/2019 at 2:26 AM, Piet said:

Hello Drazen,

 

I'm not much help with your question in that I am a meta kind of guy.  However, a wood preservative comes to mind that may help keep the moisture fluctuation at bay.  Looking at your picture it appears that was a few years ago at an earlier stage of your build and you received 17 comments on it.  Do you still have the cracking problem?

 

Cheers,

Hi Piet, dear friend!

 

I am working on this problem right now. Out of the help received in the MSW, I decided to buy a humidifier for winter and a dehumidifier for summer. I am right now testing the humidifier. It works fine (an ultrasonic device),  but has some problem with measuring humidity and thus steering the humidity on 50%. I will report in the other link about this appliance and how much it helps. Link:

 

This cracking is older, but is getting worse with the time. I just hope, it will go back somehow if I manage to keep the humidity between 40% and 60%. Till now, I did not do much effort on adjusting the humidity in my cellar.

 

Drazen

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Let's go to more beautiful postings than cracking 🙂

... the production of the decoration in transom...

 

I first made a tool to mill the outer frame of the transom and have inserted it into the Proxxon milling machine. The upper guiding part of the machine is custom made by myself and according the Russian advices on the DVD (Dr. Mike). Still, I have changed some things according to my logic.

 

The milling tool is made out of a common nail, which has been hammered and rasped to the shape in order to get the profile I need.

 

Drazen

2018-05-17 (2).jpg

2018-05-17 (1).jpg

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... and put just slight amounts of thin CA-glue to hold them in shape.

 

Take care:

  • Not to let the glue make your frame stick on the hull (you will want to remove it later on)
  • CA glue will leave yellow colouring on the maple wood. On the pear wood it does not leave any colouration.

Than I removed the frames and put additional thin/easy flowing epoxy resin to make it more solid.

 

Drazen

2018-05-17 (6).jpg

2018-05-17 (7).jpg

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.. difficult process on deciding on the decoration form/pattern. There are different decorations on the van de Velde drawings for the same ship. Also the models from the museums are not following the same pattern.

 

I decided to follow the drawing here  - second from above.

 

Drazen

2018-05-25 (1).jpg

8263607718_2bdc7966bc_o.jpg

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Than I made a piece of stripe which fits right into the frame. I took boxwood and bent it on the steam.

The stripe out of the plan, I glued on the boxwood stripe. After that, I started to work on the shape - bit-by-bit.

 

Drazen

2018-05-25 (2a).jpg

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... and we go to the other side... which has to be more or less - symmetrical.

For this, I simply scanned the part, mirrored it in the Photoshop and glued it on another boxwood stripe. Now, I am working with my own pattern and no more with the pattern from the plan.

 

Drazen

2018-05-31 a.jpg

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Painting...

 

1st. : priming

 

It was difficult to get the best primer for wood. I finally decided on Golden GAC 100. This shall save the wood from decay and protect getting oil paint into the wood (bad for wood and bad for the surface effect). I think, in my next parts, I will use several thin layers of shellac to protect instead GAC100 beacause GAC100 makes the surface not so smooth and is difficult to grind and correct.

 

After GAC100, I apply Gesso primer by Royal Talens. This one is very nice and has acceptable price. Gesso is needed to get a solid grip for the oil paint.

 

All this in thin coats not to "destroy" the pattern. I am using high quality brushes

 

Drazen

2018-08-08.jpg

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... than:

 

1) 4 very thin layers of Old Holland "yellow ochre light" (probably best oil paint brand existing - Old Holland). Always brushing the excessive outer surfaces to increase the 3D effect and depth of the structure.

 

2) Than finally only one thin layer of the "old Holland ochre" (Old Holland brand again). This one is of darker nuance then the first 4 layers.

 

You must imagine a very thin paint staying in the recessed areas slightly thicker and on the exposed areas nearly totally brushed away.

Let the layers dry thoroughly before moving to the next layer!!

 

Drazen

2018-09-17 (4).jpg

2018-09-17 (2).jpg

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Final protection by varnish (also by Royal Talens)

 

After several months drying, I apply

- Talens picture varnish matt 003 for all surfaces

and

- mixture of 1:1 picture varnish matt 003 with picture varnish glossy 002 on all decorations. In the reality, the decorations have been painted glossy in order to simulate gold, but on the model, the 100% glossy does not look real. So, a semi-matt shade looks much better and more realistic.

 

I apply final coat by airbrush. This removes partly the brush strokes or imperfections, by at the same time keeping the surface real (because of previous hand-brush application).

 

Drazen

2019-01-13 (2).jpg

2019-01-13 (3).jpg

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... and this is the final result on the ship.

 

The ribbon and small windows have been assembled too.

 

I will need to correct the paint on some small areas. This has been peeled due to the pressure when glueing, but this is no problem.

 

Finally, I want to mention, that the benefit of beautiful colour of oil paint has to be taken relative in comparison with a very difficult procedure, very long drying time and low resistance to mechanical stress. Still, I will proceed with oil paints.

 

Drazen

2019-01-20 (1).jpg

2019-01-20 (2).jpg

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