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achuck49

how to work with teeny blocks???

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So I have been using Moddelr12's method (previous page) for the last couple of months and am having a problem with the stropping holding. I first used CA and found the rope became brittle so I tried GS Hypo and then moved to diluted PVA 50/50%. My last several attempts I have coated the block with glue, stropped the block then applied more dilute PVA, let it soak in for a couple of minutes and then soaked up the remainder with a Q-tip. I am having about a 30% failure rate, the strop just pulls out when I tighten up the line. I dont know if I am just trying to pull the line too tight, not enough glue or what. Pretty frustrated at the moment.

Thoughts anybody?

Sam

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I put together a bit of mini-tutorial showing how I strop blocks in my build log in this post:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8085-armed-virginia-sloop-by-gunthermt-model-shipways-scale-148/page-24#entry328294

 

Not sure if it will help you any more than all the information already in this thread though.

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Figured it out.

 

Man, this thing is a lifesaver. Thanks for the great idea.

Where did you end up getting this from?

 

Jeff

 

nvm, I see where you posted that you got it.  thanks

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I use a little jig I made that holds and tensions the lines.

I form a loop around an old deadeye and serve a half dozen turns.

Take it out of the jig, use tweezers to hold the block in the loop and pull the ends to tighten the loop.

Brush with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

 

Nick

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The last moniker for me is experienced, I found the easiest way to attach to all blocks any size  is as people have said is the ca in the groove but I also hope it may be useful to someone.use a slip knot saves the 2nd step of tying an overhand knot. 

 

My 2 cents was perusing the site.

 

Looking forward to the finish

 

John

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Richard
This is the Jig I use.
It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops.
I clamp the base to the desk.

post-4201-0-83786600-1446659765_thumb.jpg

Then use a modified clothes peg, push a long pin through holes in the peg and the hole in the block.

post-4201-0-01763500-1446659767_thumb.jpg

Then the peg fits into the base. There is a 'dowel' on the peg and a hole for the pin.

post-4201-0-94681400-1446659767_thumb.jpg

Thread is fed through around the block, caught with a clip and an elastic band tensions the thread.

post-4201-0-01222900-1446659769_thumb.jpg

I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

post-4201-0-95757700-1446659769_thumb.jpg

I pull the end of the thread through the loop and pull out the loop. Push the siezing up tight to the block.

post-4201-0-92214700-1446659770_thumb.jpg

Take out of jig, paint with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

post-4201-0-86153500-1446659911_thumb.jpg

 

I'm sure some will think this overkill.

But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.

And I love the way the it looks.

 

Nick

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Richard

This is the Jig I use.

It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops...

And I love the way the it looks.

 

Nick

Nick - thanks for sharing this, and for the clear explanation and photos on how it works.  I think it looks pretty nice, too!!

 

Bob

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Nick,

I will second Bob's comment. It will be a while before I have any rigging but will certainly save your method.

Thank you for the how to.

 

Dave B

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I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

 

I'm sure some will think this overkill.

But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.

And I love the way the it looks.

 

Nick

Nick,

"Trapped Loop?" is that the same basic method Jay showed in his video?

Sam

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