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hi....this is not a real build log, but rather a once in awhile ''where i'm at build'' along with sharing some experiences along the way and seeking some advice..............hmmmmm....maybe that's a build log.....

     i wasn't going to bother posting on this forum since i couldn't come close to competing with the exceptional builds here of the confederacy, since i'm a 30% impatient-30% trial- and 30% error builder....and as i've discovered.....no....i can't change, no matter hard i try...even at my age.........but.....somehow the models come out looking ok.........

    so this is a ''don't do this at home'' kind of post....or bare my butt log........for example......i have the ship on my lap.....lean over to sand a plank on the belt sander, and gouge a chunk out of the the planking below the wales near the bow....ha!...and you know what, to top it off??...i panick!!.....and grab the sanding block and try to sand down the gouge, and of course i end up with paper thin planks.....so.....i have to cut out and replace maybe 5 planks at different lengths so they  would blend in better and not stand out like a square patch.....and that wasn't easy....if i slipped and cut into a neighbouring plank, i'd have to cut that one out too.......so there.....this is the me i have to deal with, and i thought people here, wouldn't mind getting a laugh at this, or experience an i've done that too :).........oh.....i oversanded a bit on another section too, but i just reinforced the back with 5 min epoxy instead of re-planking.....see how much fun this will be?....i have to say how nice that chuck designed so many bulkheads, which reduces this kind of thing from happening....for others, that is :)

   used swiss pear, which is a wonderful wood to work with, though it does have a bit of mottling in the grain, which is why i decided to use the rub on satin urethane instead of the tung oil, which i would have really prefered, but didn't use, as it would bring out the grain more......have only applied a quick rub on with urethane, to check apperance.....will use bass on the deck......

   i purchased a few cannons from syrene ship model cause the ones in the kit were ...hmmmmm........

anyways, i'll mold and cast them, and paint the number required instead of purchasing all brass.....they do seem a bit slim though, and i wonder if the nozzle hole should be widened somewhat.......and of course, i found a better ships wheel......

   anyways, until next time, and we'll see what other foibles i can come up with.....

oh....i do have to say that this is a super kit, and so much fun!.....and so much work has gone into the plans and manual...never seen anything like it....and in english!!!...a first for me.......now i can find out what everything is called...ha!......cheers, vic

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Edited by yancovitch
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I agree with Augie! Looks just fine to me. I think you're being just a little too hard on yourself and you certainly shouldn't be embarrassed by posting a build log. It's one of those "we can learn from each other's mistakes.  ^_^

 

Cheers  :cheers:

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yea rusty, but after maybe 20 models built......you think i might have learned something??? :D :D :D ......maybe now you see my problem :) :) .............but really, there's no problem anymore....now that i've accepted and embraced my limitations, i can just sit back and enjoy the build,.............................vic

Edited by yancovitch
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oh augie..me thinks i'll be sticking with the urethane satin, so i can't stain now, unless it's a stained urethane....i didn't oil because it would have come out too dark and all the grain would have been more exaggerated, which i was trying to avoid...on the wales etc i was thinking of a darker stained urethane instead of black but i don't know yet.....

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oh, i just thought i'd add that what i wanted to do and didn't, is to epoxy or whatever the inside of the hull before sanding the planking, to avoid sanding too much where the ribs are, which in this case might not have been as important, since the ribs were quite close together. but if i had used the basswood, it might have been more effective.....is why i waited for installing the deck till after the planking.............

   also, i just had an idea after the fact..........before starting, since i noticed the pearwood had some variation in color and grain....i think now that it would have been a good idea to lay out all the planking, and applied a thin coat of rub on polyurethane, which would have shown all the variation in color etc, and made it easy to choose which planks to use where..........after planking, being so thin, it would be easily sanded off...and this is mainly for hardwood planking..i don't know how absorbent basswood would be.......................anyways....food for though for the next modeler who starts this project.......then again, maybe everyone does this :)

Edited by yancovitch
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Actually, it's probably unnecessary but I do it anyway --- apply a coat of diluted epoxy to wherever I can reach on the inside of the planking prior to sanding the outside.  Particularly on a single planked hull.  It really adds to the stiffness of the hull.  Rubbing alcohol makes a good diluent to make the epoxy easily brushable.

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ha!...another boo boo.....realized i used 1/16 instead of 1/32 plank for the black strake, so i made a little tool to sand it down to 1/32.......had to cut the sanding sheet on the tool, a little narrower than the plank i was sanding, so i wouldn't sand into the wales............

    by the way, mabe 20 or more years ago i purchased 1/2 doz. metal carbide sanding sheets from sandvik, which were unbelievable helpful....haven't seen them since, and i'm still using them.....didn't sell enough i guess............

   hmmm....am amazed how well chuck designed the pieces for the stern galleries....considering the multitude of angles and shapes........somehow, i ended up building them a little higher than on the plans, another fubb.....guess i didn't get the sills in just the right place..an error yes, but in a way, it feels better visually......forgive me chuck:)

   really enjoying this kit fumbles or not........

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Edited by yancovitch
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ok......still deciding whether or not to keep it natural, aside from the stern galleries...........

   lucked out on the inner bulwarks....everything fit reasonably well, aside from the fact i had to raise the quarter deck clamp near the stern too accommodate the slightly higher galleries

  used four pieces of thin laminated pearwood to make the cove

oh....i made a scraper for the double cove out of a xacto blade...for the 1/16th square strips....but....on the roof of the quarter galleries, i think i will sand them down and re-scrape the shape......cause i think they're too deep in contrast with the etched brass....

    i may try to apply some ca with a pin or whatever to the small flat ornaments and try to give them some dimension, or find some other way.......will see what happens.....cheers...

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Edited by yancovitch
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well i figure i'll just end up painting it traditional....otherwise it just wouldn't look like the confed.....still waiting for some swiss pear from the lumberyard for the stem and rudder etc......they said it was too cold to go out to the shed to cut the logs.........amazing....way up here in burns lake bc, it's only hovering around 0,,,,,,hope i wasn't too dynamic with the red......and i hope the slightly raised stern isn't too offensive to chuck, and those highly qualified here, and hope it won't void the warranty......i hadn't planned to do it :)

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Edited by yancovitch
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Love the way this is looking, the pear looks very nice.  Love the idea to build up the PE part, was looking for an idea to do this and you just gave it to me.  Would you mind sharing how you get the CA glue into a dental syringe, and where do you get them?  I'll be following you from here on out.

Edited by Beef Wellington
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omg....haha, i guess it was worth posting my fumblings here after all, if it even helped one person....oh, i think you could just use a piece of the nylon tubing that comes with the ca, or purchase it separately.....as long as it has a tiny opening......my wife just happens to work in a dental office..............just used vallejo model color yellow ochre, covered with a light coat of minwax ipswich pine stain......still have some finishing work to do on them, like opening some blocked holes.....i may loose a bit of detail, but not much....

  how about another flub....first effort on tiled floor.....made them horizontal instead of 45 degrees......second effort....didn't notice that the bass strips i used, were a bit too fat...i scrapped that................... so i cut off the triangular ends of the first effort and used them to build up the main section in the right locations....somehow it worked ok, but if you look in a certain light, you'll see that the four corners reflect differently........but of course only i will know that :)

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Edited by yancovitch
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Let's see what math says!

 

Start with the diameter of the cannon balls:

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Then do math!

 

Confederacy had 6lb and 12lb guns, and the scale is 1:64 (3/16" = 1').

 

Convert 1:64 to a decimal gives .015625 (1/64).

 

6lb = 3.49" diameter x .015625 = .0545" in diameter at scale = 1.384mm

 

12lb = 4.40" diameter x .015625 = .06875" in diameter at scale = 1.74625mm

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I think if you've got the right size cannon, the bore should be right. From all the great reviews I've read, and knowing that Chuck designed this model, and also turned those cannon, I would think they would be OK. 

 

Edit:------Didn't see Brian's post. Math doesn't lie?  :rolleyes:

 

Cheers

Edited by GLakie
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