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24' exploration gaff-rigged ketch by vaddoc - FINISHED -Scale 1:12, a Tad Roberts design


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Thank you Pete, though I am not very optimistic it will continue like this, painting has turned rather messy.

I have lost count of how many coats of white paint I applied, it took a lot to get good coverage. I taped off the waterline edges and carefully removed the strip, now heavy with paint but happily it did not peel.

 

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I then double-masked the rest of the boat...

 
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...gave two coats of white paint to seal the edges of the tape and then went crazy with the red paint. 

 

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I will wait for the paint to dry more and then remove everything. I am sure it will look terrible though because the tape at one area was not firmly attached to the hull so that area will be a mess. Also, the poor quality tape I used just lifted so the whole hull might be splashed pink. 

I must admit since the little one came my usual thoughtful preparation has gone out the window. But then again pink is very fitting, everything in the house is pink...

 

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Indeed the result is horrible. 

 

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I need to take a step back and think how to fix this. It might be possible to sand away the excess red paint.

I should have been much more careful, lesson learned the hard way.

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Hi Vaddoc

I'm sorry about the bits of overspray and the bleeding of the red from the waterline. The important thing is that they're all fixable and that it it's only a minor setback.

The hull itself is looking great, and it's a credit to you.

All the best

Patrick

Edited by Omega1234
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Ok, the damage to the boat has partly been restored. Of course, pride and self confidence will take much longer to recover.

 

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Patrick and Mike thank you for your much needed support.

Igor, I was not aware of the masking film but it seems good stuff. I think extra strong tuck is needed

 

The way I am thinking of approaching this is:

Fair, prime and paint the hull white.

Possibly apply the film, mark the waterline and cut out the film. 

Use modelling acrylic spray paint, very thin layers, spray vertically. 

 

I really hope no paint has found its way inside the hull. I also am concerned that In order to cover the white paint, many coats of red will be needed and when the film is removed the red stripe will be raised and create a ledge. 

Clearly I need to do my homework!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Life has again gotten in the way of model building so very little progress to show. After some thought and testing (results posted to the forum) I have a better idea how to approach painting the hull.

 

Masking now is definitely more efficient. The hull is now masked, primed and ready to paint.

 

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I plan to have a red strip for the waterline and paint the bottom dark blue. I will probably use enamels and brushes as I find  difficult to control the spray cans. They also leave a very thick layer of paint

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Hi Vaddoc

 

Good luck with the painting, as it looks like you've solved the masking issues you had before. Also, I reckon the colour combination you mention will set off her hull lines really nicely.

 

I hope all goes well and that you can show us the results in the next update.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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  • 2 weeks later...

After a lot of work all old paint and primer was sanded away and painting is completed.

It is miles away from perfect but considering my non existent painting skills, I am happy. I must say the water line was much more challenging than I thought.

The white paint is Humbrol spray matt acrylic and the red and blue Humbrol gloss enamel (This is what I could easily find). The enamel paint is just gorgeous, no brush marks, huge coverage and with the low odour mineral spirits it actually smells less than the acrylic spray. Certainly this is the way forward for me.

 

I should have also sanded the border of the red paint before adding the blue to remove the raised edges but I was afraid I would make a huge mess.

 

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There is the problem that the white is matt and the colours gloss and I am not sure whether to use matt varnish or gloss. I would prefer matt but the admiral likes the blink! 

 

It is very important to make sure the tape is well tacked down. There was a leak at the bow but I managed to largely save it although a bit more attention is needed.

 

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Another milestone reached I think

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Hi Vaddoc

 

Nicely done! She's looking really spiffy, I must say.

 

My only thoughts, are, as you've mentioned. The underwater hull could've been matt, whereas the White may be painted gloss white. But, no dramas, a bit of varnish may rectify that, if you wish...but only if you see it as a problem which needs rectification. If not, you could leave it because it looks good just the way it is now.

 

Other than that, you gotta be really happy because she's coming along brilliantly!

 

Well done

 

Patrick

Edited by Omega1234
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I have to agree - seeing the boat painted fully makes her stand out in a way matched only by the photos when she first came off the jig. The colors really make her pop.

 

As for the gloss/matt issue, I prefer matt myself - it adds to the realism of the boat, especially the underbody. But, I don't have to (get to) look at the boat everyday, so if you and your admiral like the shine, then leave it. It's not 'wrong.' And, again, I echo Patrick's comments - she looks great as she is now, and she'll look great if you varnish with gloss or varnish with matt.

~ Ben

___________________________________________________________________________________________________

Current Builds:

'Doll-Boat' - 1:12 scale 40' Cruising Sailboat

S.S. Edmund Fitzgerald - 1:350 plastic kit w/ Photo Etch Parts (On Hold)

 

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Try Tamiya masking tape next time - it's the best I've come across to date. Looking very good otherwise. Matt below the waterlie and satin above would probably look best. Gloss finishes tend to make a model look 'toy like'. Most boats lose their high gloss finish once they've been afloat for a while.

 

Mike

Edited by mcpwilk
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Thank you all, it sure is a huge relief to have completed this stage.

Patrick and Ben, the admiral compromised with satin finish which actually came out more on the matt side so all is good

Mike, you are right, I did some testing with tapes and indeed Tamiya is best, there is a discussion in the forum under "comparison of masking tapes" and there is also valuable contribution from others.

 

The painting job is not as good as I would have wanted mainly due to my inexperience but also because with the little one now in the house there is limited time to complete a task. Still, it is done and it was a mountain to climb.

I brushed 2 coats of humbrol satin enamel varnish and somehow I managed to use acrylic thinner to clean the brush. Thankfully the paint job seems not to be affected but I had to throw away the rest of the varnish as there was some  contamination and precipitation.

 

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I removed the many layers of masking tape and cut some of the frame supports. I also trimmed all the rivets on the inside of the hull. I think that from very far away it looks quite similar to the american team's boat!

 

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Next, to paint and install the centerboard and then probably the floor boards.

 

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Hi Vaddoc

 

Not only would Tad Roberts be impressed, but so would the American Team be as well. I reckon you've captured the spirit of the full size boat really nicely and it shines through especially in the comparison photos (last two shots above).

 

Nicely done!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited by Omega1234
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Patrick, your support is very much appreciated, I just wish I had the skill to produce the immaculate models I see in the forum. Baby steps...

 

A very quick update, I did a bit of work on the floor boards and laid paper patterns and immediately the boat interior took shape. Before I cut and install these though, the mast steps need to be prepared and glued in place. The pattern of the individual planks is (more or less) completed, I intend to have a very narrow space between the planks.

 

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The CA glue I used has produced some stains on the inside of the hull, I managed to scrape off the largest ones. I tested nail varnish remover but it does not work well so I guess I need to tolerate a few minor stains.

 

 

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All floor boards are cut!

 

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I installed the fore deck boards, 2 coats of renaissance wax were applied. 

 

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I also finished painting the centerboard as it needs to be installed before the floor as the axle will be inaccessible.

Before adding varnish, I tested the fit again. Yes, it does not fit through the keel slot!

 

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With all the coats of primer/paint it is now thicker. I will need to open the keel slot more risking damage to the paint work. 

 

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Wow, the angle and backlighting in the second photo masks the scale quite a bit, and it looks like the real thing - a testament to the effort you spent building it just right. Really great work!

~ Ben

___________________________________________________________________________________________________

Current Builds:

'Doll-Boat' - 1:12 scale 40' Cruising Sailboat

S.S. Edmund Fitzgerald - 1:350 plastic kit w/ Photo Etch Parts (On Hold)

 

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Thank you Michel, the design helps as it is very fun boat to build.

Ben I think you are right, the scale is somewhat lost in the photo, taken of course entirely by chance.

 

I opened the slot a bit more so now the centerboard fits and I managed not to destroy the paint.

 

I continued to work on the floor boards today as I find it a very enjoyable task. However, the aft side boards are very difficult to get right as they are curved and concave, with decreasing widths. Also, pear wood is hard and sands slowly. I think I got it reasonably close though.

 

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Dear Patrick

I have not given it any serious thought, any suggestions welcome. I would like to make a few artefacts, life preservers, anchors, a chest (I have wanted to make a chest for very long) but I am concerned that the huge scale 1:12 may be a problem. Or it could make things easier! Letting the imagination go wild takes me to figures rowing but this is beyond my skills.

Basically the answer is no!

 

The floor boards and the centerboard are now installed. The photos are not very good but the boat is really too large for the iphone camera

 

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I could not resist a small comparison...

 

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I started work on the side benches that also support the thwarts. Very careful cuttings with the scroll saw were needed but the Dremel saw came through. Test fitting shows only minimal sanding is needed.

 

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With the right side bench roughly in place, I only now realise how large actually the boat is. There is lots of room and storage space. If built properly (the plans also call for fibreglass sheathing over the plywood bottom) this is a super strong design.

 

I just realised I forgot to drill holes in the boards and insert nails. This now needs some thought.

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Hi Vaddoc

 

Sorry for the late reply. I've been thinking about how to display your boat. This might sound a bit naff, but how about replicating the shipyard's workshop in which the American boat was built? I've pasted your original photo below for a bit of inspiration. You know...the boat resting in a cradle, planks of wood leaning against the walls, tools strewn about, wood off-cuts in the bottom of the hull, a few cans of paint lying about, etc, etc.

 

Just a thought to get the imagination going!

 

Whatever you choose, I'm sure it's gonna look terrific.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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I could not resist a small comparison...

 

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Again, spot on! It's neat to have a large enough model to get those kind of perspective shots, and your attention to detail really shines in them. It really looks as if you've built that boat - not an emulation or something that has the essence, but the boat itself, down to the gaps between the boards! Really great work. And, displaying it in some type of cradle (with or without the diorama effect Patrick suggested) is, I think, the way to go. It keeps you from drilling into the hull for mounting pegs, it fits the style of boat better, and it would allow you to pick it up out of the cradle to (carefully) handle it and show off the bottom detailing, etc.

~ Ben

___________________________________________________________________________________________________

Current Builds:

'Doll-Boat' - 1:12 scale 40' Cruising Sailboat

S.S. Edmund Fitzgerald - 1:350 plastic kit w/ Photo Etch Parts (On Hold)

 

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Dear Ben, thank you for your very nice words and your suggestions, I really try to approach the built as if I was building the real thing and the large scale helps I think a lot. Certainly the boat will be in a cradle, it would break my heart to drill holes!

But of course the scale creates problems e.g. taking pictures or thinking about how to display. 

Dear Patrick, when I read your question I knew there was trouble ahead and more uncharted waters to navigate.

Displaying the boat in the shipyard's workshop is a great idea and making all the machinery, logs, sawn timber etc would be great fun but the diorama would probably be too big for my house, considering the boat is 60 cm long. Still it could be done. 

Another option could be with crew rowing. But either option would need figures so for the last few days I was researching how figures are made from scratch. I do not have a single artistic cell in my body but I will give it a try, although with 1:12 scale the figures will need a lot of detail which would be lost in smaller figures. More updates on this in due course!

 

Back to the boat, with such classy company in the forum, the Butterfly Explorer absolutely needed a few hundred treenails. So here they are.

 

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I apologise for the quality of the pics, it is difficult to take good pictures with the mobile phone camera.

 

I also continued work on the benches which surprisingly need a lot of fiddling to fit properly

 

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At this time I need to install to the transom the support for the aft bench but I realised I have forgotten to install the transom knee! This is a major structural element and in the plans it is a laminate (The american team again made it from solid wood)

The shape was actually very easy to determine and my jig this time was much simpler!

 

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I somehow found time to get a large chunk of work done.

The transom knee laminate came out fine, a solid piece of timber. No way I will lose my transom in heavy seas now!

 

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Test fitting all side benches and thwarts

 

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Then the transom thwart support went in, appropriately bevelled

 

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Then the transom thwart and the aft side benches

 

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I did of course forget the tree nails for the transom thwart which thankfully were easy to install later.

 

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Then the rest of the benches were tree nailed and installed

 

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To install the rest of the thwarts I will need to install the mast step for the mizen. Soon it will be time to start work on the small deck.

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Hi Vaddoc

 

She's coming along beautifully. The laminated knee looks great! It's amazing how something so seemingly insignificant can have such a structurally important function, but then again, without it, the risk to the full sized stern being damaged in rough weather would be pretty high.

 

Overall, nicely done as always!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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Patrick, John and everyone hitting the like button, thank you for your support.

 

I decided to make the masts, booms and gaffs. I used walnut in the past but it is too hard and not readily available at this time. I ordered both beach and birch dowels, I did not like birch but I found beech to be a lovely wood. It has little grain but open pores and visible growth rings, this however does not matter at a scale 1:12.

 

The masts and booms are tapered so a power tool and sand paper would be needed. From previous experience though, this set up is too unstable and tiring to use.

 

I attempted to construct a simple jig to support the dowel

 

First I made a support for the drill to keep it horizontal

 

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Then I cut a hole in a scrap piece of mdf and inserted a bearing

 

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Then aligned everything and secured the piece of mdf to the disc sander. Masking tape around the end of the dowel ensures it is snag and centered in the bearing.

 

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This setting worked beautifully, I got the main mast tapered and sanded to 400 grit in no time. The next pic shows the gradual taper from 8 mm to 5.5 mm

 

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Then the mizen

 

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and all the rest.

 

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There is extra wood in either end in all pieces but I will trim it later on, after I do some test fitting.

In Tad's plans the mizen does not have a boom but the american team do have one. For the time I will follow the original plans but I might add a boom later on. 

 

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I think it looks fine! the gaff and boom seem a little flimsy to me but they are accurately scaled down from the plans

 

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