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1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout by gjdale - Dumas - Radio - 1:8 Scale (Completed)

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Now that really is a fine piece of work mate, a lot of effort and thought gone into that wheel. 


So that's the practice wheel out of the way now you can start on the final piece.


Very well done Grant that wheel is truely fabulous.


Be Good



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Thanks very much Hof, Mobbsie, Slog and Remco.


Remco - not sure if I understand your question. If it is about the paint, the brand is Vallejo. Plating was with a Caswell brush plating kit.

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56 minutes ago, Amfibius said:

That is truly spectacular! Now what are you going to do about Ken and Barbie? 


Probably give them back to his wife ;)

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Thanks for all the nice comments and likes folks.


Denis - the lever is the throttle (though I like Sam's idea too).


Sjors - I'd be happy to make one for your bus, but I'm afraid it would cost more than the rest of the bus......:o:P;)

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It has been a long time since I’ve been able to get back into the shipyard. Work and family commitments, as well as a new puppy in the house have all conspired against making progress with the build. While I've managed to stay in touch with others' builds, I haven't had anything to post in my own, until now...


Finally, this weekend I managed to find some shipyard time. Decided to use it to do the job I’ve been putting off for a while – polishing the hull. Not a particularly difficult job, though admittedly tedious. I worked my way through 9 grades of wet sanding, starting at 1,500 grit and going all the way through to 12,000 grit before finishing with some liquid polish (Micro-gloss liquid abrasive). (Special thanks to Keith (Amfibius) for putting me on to the Micro-mesh sandpaper).


The end result, while not perfect, is a huge improvement. I have managed to get rid of most (not all) of the “orange peel” effect and have achieved a nice high-gloss finish without going to the “boat-in-an-ice-cube” look.  It’s very difficult to take pictures to show the high gloss finish, but here’s what I got.





I wasn’t happy with the second attempt at my cutwater, so went back and re-sanded, re-polished, and re-chromed the original version. I'm happy with that now, so the next job will be to fit that to the hull. Hopefully, it won't be so long between posts now.

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Hi Grant,


I'm just catching up with the build.  Unfortunately my jaw is hurting from it continually hitting the floor.:o  The work and the results are just amazing.  Love the wheel, the planking, the finish, the whole package.  Just amazing!!!:dancetl6:




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Hello Grant


What a wonderful job you have done on your 1949 Chris Craft, she sure is a thing of beauty that is for sure. You serenity have acquired a fantastic varnish job on your little run about. You must be extra proud of the way that she has turned out. Just love that fancy steering wheel, it will fit in so very well with the rest of your great boat, WELL DONE,                                          ENJOY.


Regards   Lawrence 



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I can’t believe a month has gone by without posting progress.  It seems to have been a month filled with small steps that suddenly arrived at a major milestone.


The next job was to make the Rear Fenders. Again, the kit provides sticky aluminium strips for this, but I decided to replace these with polished stainless steel, complete with 00-90 screws. I first created a template for the screw holes in CAD and printed this onto sticky label paper. The 0.5mm thick stainless steel was ripped to width by temporarily sticking it with double sided tape to a carrier of scrap timber and passing it through by Byrnes saw. The template was then attached to the stainless steel blank and the 1/16” screw holes drilled on the drill press. The ends of the piece were marked by scribing through the template and then cutting by hand with small hack saw.




The piece was then polished up prior to removal from the carrier and installation on the hull. Double sided “attachment tape” from MACK products was used to install the fenders. Holes were then drilled into the hull, using the pre-drilled fender holes as locators, and the 00-90 screws epoxied in place using 15 minute cure epoxy.


A similar technique for the screws was used on the cutwater, the difference being that the main cutwater piece itself was also epoxied in place. Here is a close up of the cutwater – although the photo shows that it has suffered a little from handling and needs another polish-up.




I then installed the rub rails. These run the full length of the hull at the sheer, with a second, partial one just above the water line that runs from the rear fenders forwards for about 8 inches. Instead of using the kit provided material for these, I used another MACK products item, which was very easy and quick to apply. It comes with a self-adhesive backing, although mine had suffered from heat and/or packing and postage, and was basically unusable. I stripped the remains of the adhesive off and replaced it with a narrow band of attachment tape, which achieve the same outcome.


It was then time to prepare for the maiden voyage in the domestic testing facility. In preparation for testing, lithium grease was packed into the shaft stuffing tube and the rudder tube, and the running gear re-attached. This photo shows the brass prop and rudder in place (both also in need of a polish). You can also see here the brass strut that I made to replace the solid plastic skeg to support the stuffing box/shaft.




I also decided that it was time to start installing the interior gear prior to installing the engine hatches, before space got too limited. This started with running the wiring for the bow and stern lights, through the conduit that I had previously installed. Here’s a couple of overall shots prior to tank-testing. You can see the ends of the wires for the lights in these shots, as well as the rub rails.






And finally, we got to the tank test – she floats!  And she doesn’t leak!




Next up will be to finish installing all of the electrics prior to fixing the hatches in place and commencing on the final trim pieces. We’re getting close!

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