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Leo-zd

Lady Nelson by Leo-zd - 1:119 - SMALL

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Another model, the last one, but probably will be the first to be finished.
The model is based on the Cris Watton's (Victory models) drawings.
I reduced the drawings, and .. I was convinced that the right scale is the one indicated on the model (1:64) but I was convinced that was 1:54 so instead the planed 1:100 i realized 1:119 :pirate41:

 I started in the usual mode, copied and reduced the drawings of the structure, glued it on tin plywood (aero 0,6 mm) cut it with scissors and with normal cutter, glued on another sheet of same plywood and cut again.
The keel is made from 0,8 mm ply, double layers.

For the first planking decided to substitute the classic wooden strips with blocks of balsa, and made some arrangement inside of the hull, so I slightly modified the structure creating the open spaces.
In this way maybe I will leave open the hatch with the ladder and the litle portion of interior will be visible. (maybe)

One little appoint, as this is in fact a generic cutter, not the real one, decided to change the name , I found few similar cutters on lists of Admiralty and probably I will make some small modifications on the deck arrangement, on base of other cutters.

Ok, with balsa created the filling, after sanding added a strip of tin balsa for fine adjustement of hull sharpes.

 


 

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As the deck is from very tin plywood (0,4 mm) downside created the reinforcement with balsa and at the position of the mast with other piece of plywood, then on that was glued the deck.

The second planking is done with walnut strips (2*1mm) .

I have always the big problems when trim and sand the planking because I always damage the keel, so I usually make a hull without the keel and ad it at the last moment.
For better positioning of the visible part of the keel I made a channel with saw  so the junction is hidden.
Now I am in war with the curved part of keel .. :pirate41::10_1_10::pirate41::10_1_10:

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This model has 10 3pounder but in scale 1:119 the that is about 15mm long *_+
Initially I had the idea to made sepatly the gun and the carriage but it was too small.

I used the drawings in download section and in made the DWG  3d drawing of the canon.
With created stl file I ordered the 3d print.
Fortunately that the company warned me about the problem of the resolution, as their minimum resolution is about 0,1 mm. On the cannon in perfect scale all the rings of reinforcement, crown, and in fact all details disappeared :/ , they made a test and that was useless
So I redraw all, and on the visualization seems that the rings and the terminal part of barrel is oversized too much but you will see on printed models that the aspect change.
Here is the the visualization and soon I will post also the pictures of printed cannons. Unfortunately in the meantime my photo camera died so the pictures are slightly late :) 

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Hi Leo

 

What a beautiful hull you've masterfully created!  What's even more interesting is the method of construction you've used.  Not having ever used that method before, I can definitely see many advatages of that method, e.g. speed of construction and strength.

 

Looks good.  Well done and I look forward to seeing more.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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Thk Patrick
Yes, I realized that , for small hulls, is speedy and fast way to obtain strong hull, I forgot to mention that, after fine sanding, covered the balsa with CA glue, in fact small quantity but I suggest to take care and dot bi with face over it  because isn't to healthy. When the CA is straightened I sand with fine paper and that is it.
I think that I'm not the only whom happened that after sanded the normal done firs planking at the end discover in the worst position very very tin (paper tick) section and useless for 2nd planking.

PS. maybe is well known maybe not, but when the CA (cyanoacrilate) glue is used, if the quantity of glue is bigger , in holes, as a filler or similar, it need too long time for hardening, than is useful the fact that the catalizator for CA is humidity/water :D
SO for fastening can be used two methods. to buy special spray or .. take one used spray bottle of nose spray or similar, fill it with water  as the both are the same  :)
Spray/nebulize a very little quantity, not directly but in air, near the glue..
If you spray directly on glue it became milky white, with grooved volume and porous. (useful for imitating fog, smoke, or bubbled water) 

Edited by Leo-zd

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Here we are :)

The cannons were attached on toothpicks for easier managing.

First I put one hand of liquid  putty which later treated with Tamiya tin licquid glue for fine surface.
Then I painted with acrilic flat black, the barrels and carriages, although this will be red but I ned that the distant and shadows points became dark.

Sorry for the bad quality of photos, but I have to learn about the new cammera.

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Leo!  Those cannons are marvellous!!

 

Do you think you could explain further how you built them?  Were they 3D printed (based upon your description in your earlier post)?

 

Seriously well done.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited by Omega1234

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Ok
I take the drawing of Armstrong 3pounder from download section ( thanks a lot at the poster of it) and draw the shape of cannon in AutoCAD .
It's relatively simply to do, draw forms in 2D circles, rectangular; regular or deformed which define the shape then create the 3d image with rotating/revolution  (for barrel and similar) or extruding for the 3rd dimension (thickness sides of carriage) , the wheels for example could be created drawing the circle and extruding for the it's thickness or drawing the rectangle with one dimension the radius of  wheel and the other the thickness and then  rotating it for 360 degree.
Complex shapes and forms can be done with operations between forms, adding, intersection, difference....

when you got the final shape the DWG file (or other native file in 3D programs Rino, 3DMax and similar)  had to bee exported in "object" type of file which in fact id a lot of coordinates that describe this object.
For 3d printers this is "stl" extension files.
These 3d printers in fact do the same think that do normal 2d printers but work on layers in altitude (in my case the high of any layer is approx 0,03 mm ) creating the series of prints one over the other , grooving in the high.
Basically are two types, with more precision the ones which use dust of some plastic materials (simmilar to lasser printers, but here the dust are not fixed on paper but together , "in the air" , and with tin plastic rod , simmilar to ink jet , cheaper and faster but with less precision.
Late will post some drawings so maybe explain better model's creation
 

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Hi Leo

 

Many thanks.  I admit that I don't how to use auto cad systems.  As a consequence, I'm not sure I totally understand, but I am still amazed at how well your canons worked out.  The wonders of using modern technology to your advantage.

 

Well done and thanks for taking the time to show us.

 

All the best!

 

Patrick

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Today many work but small result or better to say not too much to show.
I used the silver enamel paint with a part of gloss dark blue for dry brush of the barrels to give them the metallic aspect.
Maybe seems too bright , but the scale is small and anyway I will pass the wash with black.
The carriages are painted with first hand of red (in fact is the red with small part of ocra)after another hand of slightly lighter color will be done the dry brush with light red for emphasizing angles and borders and the metallic parts (bolts and similar) will be treated as the barrels.

The photos are of poor quality  :/

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Thk Patrick, it's nice to hear this form the Master of small fantasies ;)

I had now to find the tin, very tin rope, eyebolts and blocks. I think that I must produce because Ihadn't seen soo small.

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Hi Leo

 

I really don't know about the "master" thing, but I'm happy that you like my models, anyway. It's a great compliment.

 

I'm looking forward to more updates, especially as the hull's taking shape beautifully.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited by Omega1234

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Hi leo those cannon,s look very nice indeed 3d look,s like the way forward i shall be looking into it i will be following your log.  In your log,s you keek saying tin do you mean (thin) just thought i,d mention it hope you don,t mind

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Another small, microscopic step for the model but big for me :)
I finished the stem, made it from two 4*4mm pieces, boiled and curved, and sanded to 2mm (my fingers was happy when the part (3rd. attempt) was finally glued, no more sanding )
I knew that the connections are too rough and that the parts are approximate but that part will be painted and it is so small that this will partially disappear.  

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Hi Leo

 

That's some pretty marvellous work you've done. I especially love the fact that, even at the size that you're building at, you can still see the individual pieces of the stem itself. Very nice!

 

I can't wait to see more updates, eg when the cannons are installed, etc. That'd be something to see, for sure.

 

Cheers and all the best.

 

 

Patrick

Edited by Omega1234

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Thk Patrick,
But now I want to finish the hull and the inside of the deck.
Fortunately there aren't many things before the mounting the guns.
I have some problems with rigging for guns.
 

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Hi Leo

 

I've no doubt that whatever problems you have with rigging the cannons, that you'd get over them pretty quick smart. Look forward to more updates.

 

All the best

 

Patrick

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Here we are..
Another small step
The deck is finished... not completely.

I was convinced that I used the same wood but it seems that was different essences.
To reduce the difference I will pass some light "filters", diluted color and sanding.

 

The grids were made with 3d print as I couldn't made it from wood, the beams are 0,4 mm and the openings are 0,75mm

 

Cannons... a little big problem.. the cannons are too high for openings.. although I lowered maximally the deck in that zone.   Probably I have to reduce the anterior wheels of carriage 
 

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Hi Leo

 

It's great to see your latest update because I was wondering how your ship was going.

 

All I can say is 'very, very nice!". It's great that the individual components of the stem are still visible in the third photo (as opposed to being painted over) because it emphasises the care and complexity of the work you've put into it. The deck looks great as well, especially the colour of the wood.

 

As far as the cannons are concerned, it certainly looks like you were able to overcome the problem because they looked really nice sitting on the deck.

 

I really look forward to your next update.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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Another microscopic step..
I made the companionway, and naturally I decided to made it open :D  the sides and the roof are glued in position, now I have to make the doors and the hatch.

 

The gratings received frames and also were glued in position.

 

I wont to put the chain or the rope on anchors but there wasn't any hole on the deck for it so, near the first grating I placed two, one on each side. Initially I wonted to create holes in that grating but it's so small.

The rudder is made from four pieces of 3*3mm glued walnut.

And the creating base for support. I drilled two 1,5mm diameter holes into the keel (keel is 2,3 mm ) than i take an medicine needle (this is the one for infusion with plastic over needle)  cut at the requested length.

Into the holes on the keel put some CA glue, put inside the pieces of needle, all sanded.
So now I have a good and strong support for wire of 1mm diameter.

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Hi Leo

 

I'm always hanging out for your updates and once again, I'm not disappointed!

 

What I'm particularly impressed about is your choice of woods - nice close grained and richly coloured wood, which look perfectly suited to the scale you're building at.

 

Very nice!

 

Please keep the updates flowing.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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