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HMS Pegasus 1776 by Glennard - Victory Models - 1/64th Scale


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Build Index - hyperlinks to different sections of build will be added as the work progress on this build. I will probably reformat the index as the build progress as well to reflect the build tasks.

 

1. Prework - dry fitting bulkheads

2. Beading Line and Rabbet

3. Lower Gun Deck Fittings

4. Grating Assembly

5. Dry Fit Main Gun Deck and Fitting

6. Gun Deck Fitting  Prework

7. Lower Gun Deck Glued and Pinned

8. Pre Gun Deck Planking Work

9. Start of Gun Deck Planking

10. Gun Deck Opening Cleared During Planking

11. Gun Deck Planking Work In Progress

12. Gun Deck Planking & Fairing

13. Main Deck Fitting Painting

14. Fitting Basla Inserts Bow

15. Fitting Gun Port Strips

16. First Planking

17. Second Planking

18. Bulwalks

Edited by Glennard
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I'm now in procession of the HMS Pegasus kit, and I'm now going to spend some time reading through the instructions and plans.

 

My first impression is it all looks very good and I'm looking forward to making start in the next few days.

 

I cant make any comment of the quality of the material at the moment, but generally what I have seen looks very good, certainly compared with the Victory kit.

Edited by Glennard
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1. Pre Work - Dry Fitting Of Bulkheads

 

Made an easy start tonight, released the bulkheads, keel and lower deck from the sheets and dry fitted.

It was nice that the parts were held in the sheet by a very small slither of wood which made releasing the parts very easy.

The parts all slotted together very nicely. I also I dry fitted the cradle. It will be some time before these parts are glued as I will have to do the keel beading work at the stern and the rabbet along the bottom edge. Also I plan to fair the bulkhead as much as possible so that when the bulkheads are glued in position a minimal amount of fairing will be required, well thats the plan.

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Edited by Glennard
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Treated myself to a new toy this morning as I thought it may aid with the work with reducing the keel width at the stern end from beading line to edge.

post-7550-0-04607300-1423308730_thumb.jpg

 

Rather than try it out on the model I decided it would be best to test drive the tool first.

Took some scrap MDF and marked the lines and the used the dremel sander to reduce the width. Glad I did it on a test piece first as I got a bit carried away and went a bit too deep at the edge.

 

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Was simple enought clamp the ruler to the material whilst I cut the rabbet line with a craft knife.

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Then was able to use a chisel to finish the process, which I then tidied up using a needle file

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I learnt a lot from this first attempt and will try a couple more time on scrap wood until I'm happy with the process before I move on for doing it for real.

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Not sure how deep I need to make the rabbet, Given the MDF is 5mm thick I'm thinking a depth of 1mm will be OK

post-7550-0-63654000-1423309303_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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You have got mdf sheets - mine on Fly and Pegasus were ply and i just took the first layer of ply of which served - so indeed round about 1mm.

 

Watch the Dremel - its so tempting but one slip and you can do immense damage.

The stern reduction is best done with a sanding sheet on a flat piece of wood or something. That gets a smooth flow - the small head of Dremel tools make it hard unles you have a steadier hand than I.

 

Tip about reducing the stern - place a bit of 4 mm scrap against the end of the keel sheet and clamp both to the bench or a flat piece of something. 

Then you  know you have come nicely to depth when you start sanding the scrap. Otherwise the edge ALWAYS gets over sanded

Edited by SpyGlass
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Beading Line and Rabbet

 

Second test for beading line and rabbet on scrap MDF.

 

First task was to draw the beading and rabbet lines (this is an exact repeat as required on the actual keel.). I drew identical lines on both sides of the MDF sheet. I then attached 3mm wide strip to the edge of the MDF using a few spots of CA which will act as the stop point.

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I started removing the waste wood using the dremel sander around the edges leaving it well above the stop strip. I then used a chisel and needle file to remove the remaining waste wood making sure I got a nice slope from the beading line to the edges. This was checked with my micrometer, 3mmW at edge, 4mmW at half way point an 5mmW beading line. Finally sanded smooth. Not very clear on the photo but I think if you look carefully the beading cut can be seen.

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The rabbet was cut as per my prevoius post, using a craft knife to cut the depth and then used a chisel at right angles to the cut to remove the waste wood, then used a needle file to file away the rough edges. Finally removed the 3mm strips and checked the width of the keel below the rabbet cut and it  measured 3mmW. I'm very happy with the end result.

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Having proved the method works I'm now totally happy remove the waste wood from keel and to cut the rabbet. But before I do this I will perfect the method to cut the rabbet on the walnut prow, using a scrap bit of 5mmw walnut to prove the method.

 

Edited by Glennard
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Now I'm happy with the method for the beading and rabbet I have added the cut guidelines to the actual keel and prow.

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I have also spot glued two x 3mm strips to the keel. These will act as the stop point when removing the waste wood, i.e. these strips will ensure I don't take too much wood off.

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Rabbet Cut; it was much easier than I first thought it would be with craft knife and chisel.

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Beading waste wood removed; the dremel sander made the initial removal of waster very easy.

I used a slow spin speed and took my time. Completed the task with a chisel, needle file and sandpaper.

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Edited by Glennard
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Looks really strange seeing that MDF - you are getting on well. 

Nice stem tapering. Since  I see you have gone down to 3mm , I presume that you are doing the same as I and terminating the first planking  " halfway" between bearding line and keel edge.

 

Are you thinking of drilling verical holes for mountings in the keel - I wil be interested to see whether that works with MDF. 

I am a wee bit dubious - a very thin lead hole and adding the reinforcement BEFORE opening them up to full size may be a way to go - if you are going that route.

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Hello David and Jerry

Many thanks for your visit and comments.

I will consider further attachments for the dremel tool, but not for a while as I'm spent up for the time being.

I wish I had bought one months ago as it is a very nice tool to have.

Tomorrow I return to HMS Victory build, starting with dry fitting the channels, although I did drill and test fit one cannon today.

I also experimented with a brass blackening solution;it worked very well after proper cleaning.

I have also added some additional photo's to my last post

 

Hello Spyglass

I'm not sure about the planking just yet. I was planning to plank to keel edge, and the sanding back to width of 5mm, as I did on my Victory build.

I think I will drill a 1mm hole in keel. through keelson (dry fitted) for the final supports. I will then enlarge once the keelson has been glued in place. I will not be adding bolts to the keel, but will add adding support strips.

Edited by Glennard
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  • 2 weeks later...

Resumed work on the Pegasus today (my weekend project).

 

Rough fairing of the bulkheads has been completed so I have gone ahead and glued the first bulkheads and lower deck to the main keel.

Clamped and glue is being left for 24 hours to cure.

 

Nice backdrop of my HMS Victory build (weekday build)

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Use of clamps to hold deck item assemblies in place

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I have coated the gratings with a light coating of diluted PVA. I will now wait for 24 hours before I start trimming the gratings to the required sized. I then plan to make the walnut coamings which will sit on top of the Main Gun Deck so I can plank up to the edges of the coamings.

 

Clamps removed and gratings assembled

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First Capstan assembled

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Main Pump Cistern Assembly

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Completed capstan assembly.

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Edited by Glennard
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Hello Glenn.

 

Two for the price of one...You're on your way for sure.  I have all I can do to read directions and try and understand them.  Oh well, it must be great to be so young.  All kidding aside, you're going to end up with two display cases with two trophys in them.  Nice work. Best,

Jerry

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Hello Jerry

have cheated a little today as I have painted some Victory gun port lids as I had spare 15 minutes. Current thinking is I will give the completed HMS Victory to a local charity if they think they can raise some funds by selling, raffle, etc. That all my change when I get over the finish line.

Edited by Glennard
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I've now cut gratings to size and filed the rough edges smooth.

I have taken note of the correct alignment (bow to stern) for the grating top member for when I fix these assemblies to the lower gun deck.

 

I decided to use the box joint for the coamings. This was quite easy to do with the aid of my mini vice, modeling knife and needle file.

 

Coamings with box joint prepared. I made the coamings lightly oversized which allowed me to file smooth, with the sawdust filling any gaps.

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Started fixing the coaming to the grating. I found it best to super glue each coaming to the side of the grating working in a clockwise manner. When necessary I used my needle file to adjust the box joint to ensure a tight fit.

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End view of box joint, I really happy with how these have turned out.

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Some completed assemblies. The right hand grating is slightly to big but this will be easy to trim back, but I may leave as is as it will be hidden by the quarterdeck

post-7550-0-93235300-1424612404_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Hello Glenn,

Nice work.. First time I've seen box joints used for the coaming.  It's a good idea with guaranteed strength.  Yoyu're moving nicely on two fronts...Victory and Pegasus...If you ive away your Victory for a charitable reason, the benefactors should raise somee real money.   Good luck to you.

Jerry

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I have now finished work for the day. I have really enjoyed making the grating assemblies today and I'm really pleased with the box joints used.

 

I have dry fitted the two half's of the main gun deck to hull assembly and also dry fitted the main gun deck items. I thinking of adding some 5mm by 1mm thick strips on the under side of the main gun deck sheets to provide some additional support along the central joint line.

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I know the rear main mast bitt has been dry fitted back to front

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Finally another picture showing the two build in progress

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Hello Glenn

Looks like you are enjoying these two builds, and at this pace will finish the peg before the victory, and possibly before the chap with he's half moon!!. I was wondering how you have found the quality of the Pegasus kit in comparisons to the jotika victory kit. I had only had a quick look through the box but thought the wood strip was a lot better, and also the Pegasus plans were far less cumbersome than the jotika. Any way back to your victory tomorrow, and the lids and channels. Keep up the good work. DAVID

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Hello Jerry and David

I think Jerry will win hands down with his Half Moon build, this Pegasus build will be done in slow time (for me).

I hope to get the main gun deck installed next weekend and make a start on the planking, but my time will be very limited as I'm away all day Saturday and will be out part of the day on Sunday. I'm also away on business for a couple of days during the week so my Victory build time will be very limited also.

 

So far I have been very impressed with what I have seen. The main gun deck is perhaps a bit to flimsy, but once it is glued in place and planked it will be fine. I will be able to make a better judgement as the build progresses.

 

I'm looking forward to having a look a Chris Watton's HMS Victory model which is due out later this year and one I may think about building once I've finished the on-going projects.

Edited by Glennard
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Some of the ply in my Pegasus was very poor but looking at yours they seem to have gone away from the really terrible stuff which gave me a LOT of grief with my main deck - My previous Flys had no problem. 

 

The area around the main mast and all the holes there is very vulnerable - a bit of strengthening really helps -  actually on the ply

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I have to echo what SpyGlass said.  I spent the time to reinforce the center line of my Pegasus and am very glad that I did.  It didn't take much - just a few small pieces as you can see in my log.  Adding the pieces will also help maintain the camber of the deck as you start planking it. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Build log index on page 1 of this log has been updated for easy reference to each build step undertaken, hyperlink link provide below.

Build log index

 

I did manage small amount of time working on HMS Pegasus today.

The first task was to plank the lower deck which may be seen through the main gun deck companionway opening.

As this is a small area I did not bother with any special effects (caulking, treenails, etc.) or any shift patterns.

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HMS Victory, with all guns out, is protecting the HMS Pegasus from unwanted invaders. As can be seen I'm currently rigging the gun port lids on HMS Victory.

post-7550-0-15800900-1425750719_thumb.jpg

 

As the gun deck is quite thin I decided to add some strengthening strips under the center line in the unsupported areas using some 5mm wide by 1mm thick strips.

 

Underside view

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Top View

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I understand, for this build, each plank length for a 3 butt shift pattern needs to be 66mm long, with a 22mm offset between each run. I have therefore drawn the necessary guide lines on the deck prior to fitting, looking for the best place for the deck plank joints with respect to the gun deck openings.

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Once the two half's of the gun deck has been installed I will fit the first deck plank over the joint to add additional strength. I plan to adhere to using 66mm long planks over the center line,

 

Picture showing a drawing on the 3 butt shift arrangement and center line. For the sharp eyed you'll note I did draw one line in the wrong place!

post-7550-0-48364900-1425750840_thumb.jpg

Edited by Glennard
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I added a few more strengthening planks to the underside of the two half's of the lower gun deck near the bitts and mast holes but didnt take any pictures.

 

I then marked out the lower gun deck fixing points and then glued into position, using map pins to secure the deck as the wood glue cures.

 

The complete lower gun deck pin and glued

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Close up of the bow end, the deck planking is visible through the companionway opening.

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Picture showing midships

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Not much more work planned for today as I will leave the lower deck deck glue to cure properly before I start with the deck planking next weekend, I may make the companionway coaming later today, using a simple box joint again.

 

 

 

 

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Hello Glenn...

Good to see the further progress you have madde.  it's so obvious to me that you are striving for a beautiful and strong build.  It must be fun to build two models at the same time, working on one while the other may have something drying or setting.  i have never tried that and I'm not sure I would have the pschyce to accomplish that.  Your work is steady and neat and I look forward to your additional progress. I hope you are having a decent weekend.

Best,

Jerry

Edited by Jerry
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