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HMS Winchelsea by Chuck - 1764 - English 32 Gun Frigate - (POB 1/64)

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Here is the start of my revisited topic for the HMS Winchelsea. She was launched in 1764 and is a Niger class frigate. I am modeling her as she appeared during the American Revolution. The plans were drafted from the originals in the NMM. I am also using a contemporary model to reconstruct the carvings and other details missing in the drafts. There is also a wealth of primary source correspondence from the designer, captain and shipyards. She was designed by Sir Thomas Slade.

Here are some photos of the plans I am developing including some of the NMM model to show what she will look like. I am building her POB much like the Confederacy although I plan on adding even more detail. The model will be fully rigged at 3/16" scale. I am using boxwood for the entire model except for the bulkheads and false keel and hull fillers. Those are ply or basswood. The port side will not be framed like the NMM model and there wont be a cut-away like Confederacy. This will be fully planked although I will leave half of the qdeck and fcastle open to show the deck framing.

To save time I have sent the bulkheads and false keel out to be laser cut. That should save three weeks time. I designed her with a large number of bulkheads. More than any other kit including the ones I have previously designed. The head knee is completed and attached to the false keel. The false keel or "bulkhead former" is in two pieces. The head knee is built up much like the actual ship. Next I will add the actual keel pieces and then bulkheads. 














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I have finally completed the skeleton for the HMS Winchelsea model. It is very similar to the design concept I used on the Confederacy and Syren. Now that it is completed I can start planking the hull. While doing that I will continue to draft the inboard details. Its moving along well although it is going slowly. But at least you can get a sense of the hull shape on this 1760's 32 gun frigate now.

I will be using Boxwood for the hull planking. Next up is painting the gun port openings and then planking will start, followed by treenailing.

Any questions or comments are welcome as always...












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I recall you saying that you had no intention of making her a kit.  But she would be fantastic.


That said, the design, plans and workmanship are first rate.  And I like the idea of many bulkheads for this POB.  I don't know why, I just do.


Really nice Chuck.

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Thanks guys,


I planked the lower counter first as is the usual practice. 

Then I painted the port openings red since the bulwarks will eventualy be painted too. The planking will be carefully cut around each port opening leaving a "lip" on the bottom and two sides. This will create the rabbet of the port lining. 

I created the fixed hull blocks just like I did for Confederacy. I created a small sheave slot in a 1/16" thick piece of boxwood. Then I held it against the hull where it would be located. I used a sharp awl to mark the locations of the two holes that would simulate the sheave. After drilling them through the hull framing, I glued the fixed vlock into position. It is the same thickness as the hull planking that will butt against it. To finish it up, I shaped a small piece of boxwood to simulate the actual sheave. That was glued into the slot to complete the fixed block on the outboard side of the hull. The process will be repeated inboard before it is planked. 

Before I started planking, I ran a batten strip along the hull. The top of this strip represents the BOTTOM edge of the wales. There were laser etched reference marks on each bulkhead so this was pretty straight forward. fter tweaking the batten a bit to get a smooth run I used a pencil to mark each bulkhead on the outside edge. 

The batten was placed on both sides of the hull so it could viewed at multiple angles. I wanted to check and double check that the battens were mirror images. It is pretty crucial that the run of the planking be consistent on both sides of the hull. I used tick strips to make sure the distance from the batten to the shear line was the same port and starboard. 

The first strake was then placed on the hull. It represents the first strake below the wales. Then I worked my way up from there. The wales and black strake will be completed later with a second layer of boxwood. Its the same process used for the Confederacy as well. I dis decide to plank the hull above the wales more accurately than the Confederacy. I am planking around the ports as they would have in actual practice. If a strake under a port became too thin, they would have used a thicker plank below it and shaped it to suit. A TAB of sorts was shaped into the plank making it wider in that area. Had a really thin piece been used it would not have been strong and would have been prone to rot quicker. 

Hopefully this will be made clear in the photos as it is hard to explain. The shape of those planks directly below a port require some careful carving and filing. You can see one of them pictured before it was glued onto the model. I have only ligtly sanded the planking up to this point and no finish has been applied yet. Once thats done it should look cleaner with less scratches and very smooth. Its a little rough in its current state. I will snad with 220 grit initially and then switch to a fine wet/dry to finish it off. Then some wipe-on poly will be applied. A pencil was run across one edge of each plank to simulate the caulking. That should also become more clea and uniform after the finish is applied. There will also be the inevitable touch up fo rthe red paint on each port opening too. It should be a productive weekend I hope. 












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Thanks....this isnt too bad for the Winchelsea.  I only got as far as almost finishing the planking.  I should have my new workshop set up in a bout 3 weeks.   So this log can be updated fairly easy.


But the other ones like Confederacy and Syren will be a bear to recreate.  The two small boats wont be too bad to start over...I will probably do those first after I finish this one.


I will post the cannon carriage production and planking process of spiling in those appropriate forums as they need to get some relevent content in them rather than this log.



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Hi Chuck,


I was hoping you'd re-post that planking tutorial!  I had that bookmarked and at the ready for any future builds.


When I read through your explanation of the spiling and planking process (with the accompanying great photos), I had one of those "if I only knew then, what I know now" moments!  Had me seriously considering getting out the isopropyl alcohol :)




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Thanks....a PDF is actually already in the database....check it out and save it to your hard drive.  I managed to save a lot of teh database files and have even more to add very soon.  Thanks to all of the members who forwarded them to me.    Everyone has been just great so far.......Well maybe not everyone....but I plan on converting them once again to loyal MSW members in the near future.




mswsplash copy.jpg

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Hi Chuck



Too bad about the crash but you will certainly nurture the Model Ship World back to its former grandeur.

The rebuild of this topic will be one not so  small leap towards that goal. :)

Keep up that beautiful work,




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No not for Confederacy...but I have all of the pics.   The rest is all in my head along with a bunch of other useless info. ;)


It will be a while before I get to that one but I will probably post teh practicum instructions in the database.  The log was basically the same thing as that.  



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This last post brings my log up to sate believe it or not.  I have about twelve planks to add to the port side below the wales.  Here are pics of the planking completed on the starboard side.  I will do a very detailed topic of the lining off of the hull and spiling in the Hull Framing and planking forum in just a few minutes.


The planking below the wales was done using no drop planks at the bow and no stealers at the stern.  A process known as lining off the hull was used to create a planking plan before I started cutting wood.   Each strake was spiled to attain the proper shape.  A downloadable PDF of this planking tutorial can be found by clicking here.





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Thanks...I thought the same thing...its nice to revisit some of the logs and examine the photos carefully again.


The wales are just painted with acrylic paint.  Its Mars black.  I use artists acrylic paints from a tube.  Its Windsor % Newton Galleria paint.   There are probably about 40 coats of black paint on the wales so far.    But they are very thin.  I water down the paint on my pallet with a brush as I work.   The paint is put on very thin almost like water colors.  I sand between coats when it gets to the point where the wood is all covered.   I dont remove the paint but instead sand the surface of the paint using 420 grit wet dry paper.   Then a few more coats are added.


Here are a few pics of what I hope will show the painting better.   I try to get the surface as smooth as possible so no brush strokes are seen.




first planking belt1.jpg


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