USS Constitution by shipgeezer - Model Shipways

[shipgeezer]

Just started and working on bulkheads. Look forward to any help from anyone as I slowly work on this project. Thanks

[usedtosail]

Looks like a fine start. You can bevel those bulkheads some before you glue them on, if you want. You should at least take off the laser char before installing them as it will be harder later.

[shipgeezer]

Thanks Tom. I only hope I didn't screw up big time. I realized after installing a number of bulkheads that I should have put them on the plans and marked the reference mark on each bulkhead. Since I didn't do that, am I totally screwed up? I installed my bulkheads by visually making sure that top line is even with each bulkhead but that means the bottom bearding line is going to be off when I try chiseling. My bulkheads are all higher than I think they should be because I had the keel in a model expo jig to hold the keel and the bulkheads didn't go al the way down the slot. Any ideas?

[usedtosail]

My advice would be to take some isopropyl alcohol and loosen the glue, then take the bulkheads off and start again. Any discrepancies at this point will be major problems later on. You can get the first chapter of Bob Hunt's practicum for the Constitution at his web site for free. It has some good information about how to make sure the bulkheads are correct before installing.

[shipgeezer]

Thanks. I might have to use the alcohol solution and start over. Take a look and tell me what you think. I have completed the bulkheads and the deck is fairly even.

[usedtosail]

Yes, you could probably work with that. From that last picture, make sure the bottom of the bulkheads make a nice line too. The middle rear ones seem liek they may be too high and not in a nice line. If you added a rabbet at the keel, make sure the bulkheads, except maybe the last one, all end on the rabbet.

[shipgeezer]

Ok thanks. Now comes the hard part because I suck at carving. Are there any videos out there on guys carving the counter block etc?

[shipgeezer]

Ok folks. I am lost. I have Hunt's Practicum and I am looking at it, but I must be missing something. Is the control block and the filler block two separate pieces? It seem if the control block is actually 1 3/4 inches wide it sticks out way beyond the keel when placed against bulkhead R and the keel has a slight upturn that prevents it from sitting on top of the keel. Help!!

[usedtosail]

I don't know what the control block is. The piece you show is the transom filler piece. See post 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5003-uss-constitution-by-usedtosail-model-shipways/?p=158328

 

in my build log where I shape this piece from templates made from the plans.

[GLakie]

I think he's talking about the counter that sets on top of the stern filler block. 

 

Shipgeezer: I'm no one to offer much advice, but you might want to slow down and study your manual, plans, and that first chapter of Bob's practicum for a while before doing much more carving. I got my Connie a year ago, and been studying that whole time and still have a LOT to learn before I'll feel comfortable starting. Also, Model Shipways has some fairly cheap books on modeling techniques. Studying the builds found right here on this site will also offer all kinds of helpful info and inspiration. The big thing I found so far is to treat each part and piece as a project unto itself, get it right, then move on. A build like this should take at least 3 years to complete, so take your time. Sorry for the rant, and please don't take it wrong. I'm looking forward to watching this one take shape.

 

Cheers 

[usedtosail]

Good advise George. This is not an easy model to build. That said, we will help you as much as we can.

[shipgeezer]

Thanks for all the advice from everyone. I realize now that this might be a good 2 or 3 year project and because I broke some pieces when I started, I have ordered new replacements from Model Expo and will begin again soon. Some times you learn by messing up. Now I can start slowly and make a good project. I followed advice from a few people and also picked up Hunt's practicum which should help immensely in getting off the right way. Used to Sail, I am following your project and watching all of your logs and pictures. One question for anyone, what version of the cony is the Model Shipways kit? Is it 1812, Is it the 1927, or 1997 rebuild. Let me know. Thanks

[CaptainSteve]

Geezer,

 

As built from the box, I do believe it would be the 1927 re-fit. But many of us have bashed/are bashing to other time frames, with 1812 being a popular choice.

 

Hard as it may be to hear, I think George has given you some good advice.

 

For myself, over the last two years, I've made the ship's boats to this build. Apart from marking-up some frame pieces, that's it !!! Although, I have followed a heap of other builders to see how they are doing it, and I've picked up an awful lot of the history of this ship. That's all part of the fun. 

Edited March 5, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[shipgeezer]

Just a quick update from the Shipgeezer. If you wish you can follow this rookie, and maybe discover what NOT to do when you start the Model Shipways USS Constitution model. Thanks to many folks on here and mainly usedtosail for his advice, I ordered new parts from Model Expo and am starting over completely and realized my first mistake. When you begin a model build of this difficulty, it is imperative that you try getting the Hunt practicum and study it a bit before you even start. In addition, I discovered that this is a long project and you must take your time especially when cutting the laser cut parts for the center keel pieces and if they don't literally fall out on their own as you cut the tiny connections, flip them over and cut the back. So far, I have cut out the main 8 keel pieces and glued each of the half pieces together, and my next step will be removing the laser char on each piece and using tracing paper to mark the bearding line.

[shipgeezer]

_{Here is the updated new USS Constitution as built so far. Looking forward to any help from anyone as I slowly continue working. As you can see, this new conny is much better than my original start and all bulkhead are correct along with the bearding line. Tell me what you all think. Thanks. Starting to work on the tiller black next. To usedtosail, I will be working on the temporary plank under the gundeck and will watch your build to see how it goes. Thanks to everyone.}

Edited April 9, 2015 by shipgeezer

[usedtosail]

Looks like a great new start. Take your time and don't hesitate to ask questions as you go. 

[CaptainSteve]

Geezer !!

Great to see you back with renewed vigour !!

As it is, you are further ahead than I am with my build .. but I plan on catching up with you very soon.

   

[GLakie]

You're off to a fine start, and I can only echo what Steve and Tom have said. 

 

Cheers

[jhearl]

From the last picture, it appears to me that the 2nd-5th (and possibly the 6th) bulkheads don't come close enough to the rabbet. If you lay a plank along those bulkheads, down near the keel, while you're fairing the hull, you'll likely find the plank won't hit every bulkhead. This is pretty easy to correct though. Get yourself some basswood in a 3-inch wide, 24-inch long sheet. Thickness may depend on the amount of space you need to fill in but 1/16" should work OK. Cut a piece off the end of the strip as wide as the bulkhead so you wind up with a strip that's 3 inches long with the grain running crossways. That makes it very easy to bend the wood around the curve of the bulkhead. Apply some wood glue to the bulkhead and glue on the strip. I just hold it with my fingers for the 60 seconds or so it takes to adhere. Once the glue has thoroughly dried (I usually wait over night) you can proceed with fairing the hull. Of course, if three inches isn't enough length, you can just add more pieces as needed.

 

Cheers -

John