Blacklab

I did not use CA glue on the parts I had to remake. I think it’s called a false keel. I think I will build this one without sails. It’s a starter kit an much of the parts I have looked at so far are just parts. It’s going to take a long time to remake or make fit. I am beginning to think the two kits I got just bad runs of the model. I just tried for fun to see how the rudder will look holding it up to the stern. Not real close, I realize the deck has not been planked, keel an other parts added but some how I am wondering if two kit were mistaken in parts packing. It’s no problem in the long run I will end up with with more knowledge an experience. As the old man would say keep ‘‘em operational gentlemen.” Never know what your up against or find.

I have gotten all the glue I wanted to try. Each one has a specific use, it reminds me of building RC aircraft a different glue for everything. One problem I have come across an finally have had to resolve is the quality of the kit. Swift 1805 1/50 scale. I believe it’s been built more times than I can count. I studied the plans over an over for hours. After sanding an working on placing the bulkhead’s onto the frame, no matter how hard I tried I could not straighten the piece. I wet it placed it in a clamp with boards holding it straight for days. I heated it no change. I finally had to use a scroll saw an cut a new piece from aircraft grade plywood left over from another project. But another error came about, the bulkheads on 3 an 4 were wrongly marked. If I had placed them in correct order the hull would have had a bow in the center. I knew it was wrong, so I switched the them around an everything came into form. My question is this to be expected in many kits or is it just an anomaly? I ordered another model of the same ship from eBay, an it had the same problem. The frame the bulkhead fixed to were almost as bad as the original. The next ship I want to tackle is the Mayflower. Maybe it’s hard or fairly easy enough, I am no expert on model ships, but are these faults expected? I know in RC models there are mistakes, but they are fairly an easily corrected. If I were a beginner at building an reading drawings I could not have completed this kit an gave up. I can say the mast an keel that glues onto the model are straight. Also the kit did not come with sails, is this common? I have started planking the hull an it’s quite interesting to see how each plank fits. It does test you skill at building, which I find enjoyable.

Another thing I am wrestling with is wood type. Where do you purchase the wood for these models? I would like to change some parts out to another species. I would like to get some of the Alaskan yellow cedar one person used or something similar. My neighbor thinks it’s a secret about where he gets wood, the mahogany he used for a keel is really nice. I will do a search on CA to see just where it does come from. The government carries info on who owns who. It might be interesting.

I purchased some Gorilla CA an find it’s no different than the Zap I have used on RC aircraft. The only thing I did not like was the tip. The bottle I got doe not have the type I prefer to use, the smaller tip similar to micro dots coming out of it. I have plenty of dispensers an will transfer it quickly into one of those applicators. Air I was told is the thing you want to stay away from, but so far it works the same and it’s strong. I used it on scrap plywood, an strips of walnut. The plywood comes apart first. I have on order some of the BSI stuff recommended on an earlier post. I would not be surprised to find out that only one or two companies make CA.

So don’t purchase Gorilla CA? It’s in every store I have been to. I was looking for Zap but no one Carrie’s it. It’s been a few years since I built an rc plane, I guess they are out of business. I think I will just make an order from one of the ship modeling online store. I have always use the super small tips that look like string. The diameter is maybe 2 in diameter. I allowed only the tiniest amount of CA to be applied. The tips on the bottles are just to large an clog to easily. I found it best to get several bottle tips too. Here I was just thinking I had plenty of tools an it should be easy enough. More to this than I imagined a few weeks ago.

I am glad you fellows gave me good answers. I was about to purchase something else. I have always used Zap for instant CA glue. But I think this time I am going to use a white glue of some brand. Building aircraft very little glue needed to be cleaned up. CA was mostly used, epoxy was used near engine mounts to stop fuel creep. Almost any glue could be used for the rest of the structure. It was all inside an rarely needed much cleanup. From your recommendation cleanup is a must am not to over do it. I think I can do that. Thanks for the help, it’s nice to get answers so quickly.

I hope this is the correct place to ask this question. I have built 50 to 100 rc planes, an over the years I have noticed the glue yellowed. Inside a fuselage it does not matter. Strength was your greatest issue. I have decided to build my first ship model. It’s the Swift 1805. I am told it should go relatively smooth. My first question is what type of glue will not yellow? CA glue in balsa is quite noticeable over time also. I don’t think Elmers is strong enough. Another question is about staining. Which brand do you use, an what clear do you cover it with?