Sonar Bob

After I put the full frames together I took the half profile and duplicated it and then glued it down to the building board so the would be a port and strboard side on either side of the center line taking care to leave a space for the keel between the two. I then used the frame drawings to bevel the first six since it seemed like such a lot of wood to remove by sanding once on the keel plus I would have a better idea of what the hull would look like. To make sure the frames were centered I used perpendiculars lined up with the profiles. It became obvious that the half profiles were not as wide as the frames and so I measure out from the profile the same amount on each side so the frame was, I thought, centered. It turned out they wern't which was very disapointing. So I started over by purchasing the first twelve billets again from the Lumberyard. This time I cut out each frame pattern and folded it in half so the port and starboard parts of the frames were positioned over each perfectly to determine the true center of the frame. Guess what, most of the centers as drawn were off by and least a millimeter and usually more. So when I put the frames together again I used the true center as a guide. This seemed to get the frames more in line the second time around. Neeedless to say, this took more time than writing about it, plus time off for a trip south to get out of the zeor temps for a while has caused this delay. I'm now ready to start the sanding process which will ultimately tell me if these pieces of wood will look like a ship as shown on the Lumberyard web page. Thanks for the replies and comments. sonar bob

I'm in the process of starting my first POF using the Oneida kit. Are there any who have already done this same model and are there any suggestions that would help me. I chose it because of the lasered frame pieces as well as other parts that look like it would be a nice model once finished. Sonar Bob