Senza Timone
-
Posts
18 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Senza Timone
-
Planking the ship boat
Senza Timone replied to Senza Timone's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks, first ship and boats. Building experience from mistakes. -
Can be almost as much work as planking the ship hull. I have seen some clever clamps to hold the plank in position but they are two big for the ship boat. I whipped up a couple that work great. Should have made it earlier.
-
My Ulises Tug cabin has 11 window about 25mm x 13mm that need to be framed wit 2x3 Built a jig to cut all pieces the same length ... cut the first wrong cut them all wrong. Is funny because I took to build the boat to take a break from model making in metal and I have already done lot of lathe and mill work for this ship.
-
- 7
-
-
-
Thank you guys, real good info. Mauro
-
I finished my first planking. Is not perfect. Some courses show a shallow step like if using planks of different thickness. Since the planking is only 2 mm thick I do not want to do some heavy sanding, plus the ship will see water and needs to be water tight. What is a good sealer to use in this application? Must dry hard and sandable not mushy like the wood putty used to hide blemish in furniture's Must have a reasonable work life, I thought of Bondo but is nasty stuff. Back in the model airplanes days (60 years ago) I used a paste of Talcum powder and Nitrocellulose glue, there should something better today
-
I have Johnson Control motor C4557-6003 12V 3 pole salvaged from an HP Printer I characterized V; I; RPM alone, connected to the propeller shaft spinning on air and the immersed in water Here is the set up, I give you a minute to finish laughing... Direct coupling via neoprene tube All is pretty predictable until the prop hit the water, then my power supply current limit and all I get is 2.9V 4.8A and 200 RPM You can see it churns up a fair rooster tail of water, I do not think I need more than 400 RPM at the propeller to push the tug just to see it cruising. Even at this level of drive the motor is cool. I though a direct drive would be acceptable but is clear the motor is bogged down and is operating far from optimal. So I am going for reduction 2:1 running the motor with 6 NiCd cell (7 to 9V) The question is belt or gears? I can buy nylon gear for next to nothing and built the transmission case as I have a fully equippet metal shop. Belts is more of of unknown what type of belt to handle the torque? How about a 1/8 diameter O ring on V grove pulley? Is the small pulley 1/2" diameter adequate?
-
Perhaps would be of interest some personal notes. My wife is sharing my modeling experience in her own way and sent me this poem: The Building of the Ship by Henry Wadsworth… | Poetry Foundation My Blog Name "Senza Timone" means "Without Rudder" in Italian. You can imagine all sorts of allegoric meaning but in a way describes my character, or like a rudderless ship someone that has no idea where is going. Back in the '50-'60 my father owned a Toy/Model shop (Lucky Child) my father and older brothers built several ship and sailboats for sale but I was into flying U-control Airplanes for fun.
-
Thanks for the response. I appreciate the pointer on the rudder size since I had no notion. A clip on is a great idea since it achieve the purpose leaving the right appearance on the stand. This is how fare I got so far. There is almost as much work on the two lifeboats then on the entire ship hull. After seeing the amazing work documented here I am not going to make a build log for a modern ship from a kit. All pieces are precut this is little more than a glue job. I found a 12 V motor in the salvaged box that should be fine when run by 6 Sub C NiCd cells. Found a piece of 3/4" Schedule 20 PVC pipe that will make a perfect battery holder.
-
I am building the Ulises Tugboat by OcCre. It is designed to be an RC ship. I do not plan to "play" with it and will not install the Radio Controls but before I finish the top I am going to install an electric motor because is going to be much more difficult once the hull is closed up. Somebody in the future may wish to add RC ability. Which brings up the question: What kind of RPM is just about right. Is easier to find PM DC motor spinning at 20,000 RPM but without any scientific support I think such RPM is way too high. It would seem like the propeller would act more like a blender than do real propulsion. The propeller has 45mm (1.75") diameter. Any idea of what a correct RPM range would be?
-
Metal Tractor by Senza Timone
Senza Timone replied to Senza Timone's topic in Completed non-ship models
Not ready to make a build log yet. It should be moved to Shore Leave now that I found what seems to be the appropriate forum. -
I just finished my "metal" project and ordered a Ulises tug lit from OcCre
- 4 replies
-
- 13
-
-
GSDPIC nice to now you are in Austin. When COVID subdue some we may meet and compare notes or show off our shop. By the way, I belong to a local amateur metalworking group in Austin. Before COVID we used to meet once a month at one of Rudy's BBQ places If there is sufficient interest we may try to start something similar about model ships.
-
Hi my name is Mauro, I live in Austin TX I am a retired electronic engineer. For the last 15 years or so I have been building model engines and in my teens I was building and flying model airplanes. I have a well equipped metal machine shop and the usual wood working tools. I decided, for a change of pace, to build a couple of model boats. I am set on a tug and a ocean fishing ship. I want the hull to be wood planks on frame. Although I never built a ship I feel I am no novice at model construction. This is a picture of my latest engine a 5 Cylinder Radial Glow Plug
Our Emblem ®
