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N1ckel

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Everything posted by N1ckel

  1. N1ckel
    I’ve done a ton of sanding - any advice on telling the walnut before painting / varnishing?
  2. N1ckel
    Did a lot of work and it didn’t turn out too bad 😊 thanks for all the advice, much appreciated
  3. N1ckel
    Thanks so much for this, that’s really helpful. One of my biggest challenges is the bow / stem. It’s very curved on my model so decisions how to divide up the planks seems really odd, and you could end up with tiny tapers right at the front. Should I look to use drop planks?
  4. N1ckel
    Quick update for folks, I did a ton of measuring, marking tick lines etc and the first set of planks still didn’t seem to fit well. I then thought it was my cutting so I tried sanding the taper instead of cutting and it went much better
  5. N1ckel
    So I’m looking at the 2nd planking and dividing the whole area into 4 belts - does this look right? I’ve used string to mark the 4 areas, and I’ll use tape strips at each bulkhead and mark tick strips dividing each area by the number of planks. At the bow each belt is roughly 10mm with 4 planks in each, so that will mean 2.5mm at the narrowest taper. am I thinking about this in the right way? Anyone see anything wrong with my approach? thanks all!! nick
  6. N1ckel
    Thanks all, makes sense. I’m frustrated at the instructions with the Badger that says do the tastier with a straight metal rule, but gives no details about where to begin the taper and how much to taper. I will definitely use all the advice above. testing one of the guides it says not to taper a plank more than 1/2 the plank width. Do folk find this to be the case? thanks all for the help
  7. N1ckel
    Ok another question - if you know what the taper width is at the bow, and what the plank width should be at midship, why not just draw a straight line between the two and not bother with the tick marks on the bulkheads in between? Is the line really curved ever?
  8. N1ckel
    That’s really useful thanks!!
  9. N1ckel
    Yes that’s useful thanks. My challenge is the bow is more slanted on my model so it’s not to easy to measure the front “green line” and divide by the number of planks, but it’s useful to know this is the theory - thanks!!
  10. N1ckel
    I watched the video and tried to follow it but that did not go well at all 😬. Chucks advice on bending a curve into the plank did work really well in helping the planks lay flat on the bulkhead, but I was not bold enough on how tapered the planks should be. I get the process with the tick marks on the bulkheads, but what should the taper width be at the right up at the stem? I kind of guessed with half a plank width as but I don’t think that was enough. luckily I have a 2nd planking so I can try and do better 2nd time around and hide this mess. I have learned a lot doing this, and sometimes you just have to have a go and learn…
  11. N1ckel
    I’ve looked at many videos and read many docs but I’m still a little lost. (Building the HMS Brig Badger) the instructions say don’t taper plank 1, but taper the rest at the bow. It also says don’t bent or force the planks, just let them lie to assess the taper - but my issue is a straight plank is really hard to figure out the taper needed, pre-bending the plank makes it much easier to assess if tapering is needed, but it’s still a bit of a swag. Would it be better (as per some of the videos here) to pre-measure and mark a set taper amount for all the planks rather than try and guess by trying to bend planks to see what taper is needed? I feel like a standard amount of taper for every plank might give a more consistent result. Thoughts and advice
  12. N1ckel
    Hi , thanks for adding me. I’ve built a few smaller models and have just embarked on the HMS Brig Badger. Just about to start planking and have to say the instructions are not the best but I think I’m figuring it out. I’m sure I will have plenty of questions so brace yourselves 😂😊 Nick

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