Fritzlindsay
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Everything posted by Fritzlindsay
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I know this is probably silly to most, but I wish they would offer a kit of the launch that Bligh used on his famous voyage. The jolly boat on Bounty was rotted through, plus the launch had a different shape and size than the jolly boat. The following from RMG is supposedly the drawing from which Bligh's launch was built. I would guess the winch and davit was removed to make more room. Also Bligh's log makes reference to having had a second set of shrouds, thus a second mast. Fritz
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For the future, in order to avoid the lifting from edge bending that is on your model it is best to taper the width given by lining off, wet the piece and edge bend around an appropriately radiused form, then once formed do the rounding bend as you show. Fritz
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While probably not appropriate in this case, there is a huge amount of information on Naval tactics in Steel's The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship 1794 starting on page 347. https://maritime.org/doc/steel/ Fritz
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I get that the kit may not be like any real boat, let alone the Bounty launch. Sorry for my confusion, but when you say the kit as is the use of ribs on a launch, do you mean there were no frames on a launch? Scantlings from David Steel give dimensions for the floor timbers and futtocks of the frames (ribs?) . This does bring up a question that hopefully a member can answer. How was the R&S determined for the various ships' boats? I have always just settled on the station lines being the location of the square frames as I have never seen a figure for the room and space on any ship's boat scantlings lists or contemporary plans. Fritz
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LOVE your planking! Sorry to ask but I am not sure what you are calling a sheer clamp? If it is the strake of planking at the top of the inboard side of the frames it seems unusual as I cannot find any contemporary drawings that have anything like this. If you or a member has any contemporary plans showing this kind of construction that would be fantastic. As it is, there needs to be a gunwale as shown on the drawings below to support the tholes which would alleviate the need for the clamp. Thank you very much Fritz
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The drawings in Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships shows them. The Longridge fold out between pages 36 and 37 are a very close match to the plan ZAZ0121 at RMG that is stated to have been made after 1705 even though it supposed to be Victory 1765. Fritz https://collections.rmg.co.uk/media/558/554/j1850.jpg
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THANK YOU for posting this.
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Various shaped rigols can be seen in Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War, on page 190. I looked through dozens of photos of contemporary models at RMG and Preble Hall but cannot find one model with rigols above any gun ports which I found curious. Hopefully another member will have some pictures to share that show these. Fritz
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I am guessing they started to come into use about the time wreaths were being eliminated circa 1710 or maybe when the 1719 Establishment was introduced. There is no mention of them though in the Establishments one way or the other. Just a guess. Fritz
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Have you studied the articles in the data base here at MSW and watched the on line videos on planking by Chuck Passaro? You will see that if you pre-taper and pre-shape the planks then there is no need for nails or clamps. Fritz
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Can you post a picture of the guns from Ancre? Thanks Fritz
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The cyphers are different as there were two different kings in power for each of these patterns. At tiny scales I agree most would not notice, but why use the wrong cypher and vent if it is only a matter of providing a different drawing to the 3D printer? Makes no sense when it is only a matter of attaching one drawing or another to an email going to the printer doing the work. Fritz
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If these are 3D printed resin barrels this is a crazy high price. As mentioned above I have never paid more that about $US 0.80 per barrel including freight. Find a 3D printer service within Spain and email them the 3D drawings of the ones you want. There are drawings by Ron Thibault that might be useful, depending on the nation and era you need. https://thenrg.org/page-1075420 I just looked at the Articles Data base and there are 2D drawings labeled Armstrong but they are not correct. The ones shown are Armstrong Frederick pattern guns (circa 1760-1791) where as the Armstrong pattern guns were made between about 1725 and 1759. Fritz
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Whats the best book on rigging for a beginner?
Fritzlindsay replied to Stuka's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
For some really great information on rigging in general and how to's, volume IV of TFFM by member David Antscherl is a must-have book along with his booklet on making sails. Fritz -
Whats the best book on rigging for a beginner?
Fritzlindsay replied to Stuka's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Respectfully disagree. The book mentioned is based on a single restored frigate model, HMS Melampus (36) 1785 so questionable for other ships without cross checking other sources. It gives no information on other eras or sizes of masts, yards, standing rigging. running rigging or information on blocks, hearts, and other parts that are part of the rigging so very limited. There are contemporary manuscripts at RMG that can be purchased, including a table of proportions of the rigging and blocks for Sherbourne 1763. If you do not want to purchase this, there are tables for Kite and Alert at the RMG Collections website available for free download and posted below. In the end it may be best to just purchase the Sherbourne manuscript. The most complete books on rigging English ships are probably James Lees Masting and Rigging English Ships of War and David Steel's Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship, the latter being available for free on line from the San Francisco National Maritime Park. https://maritime.org/doc/steel/ There are more that members might suggest as well. Fritz I assume you already have the contemporary plans for Sherbourne, but just in case you don't they are posted below.
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
Fritzlindsay replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
These work great, but my favorite are using high quality barber scissors such as Matsui or Joewell. Not cheap, but extremely good at cutting clean and accurately. -
Where did did you find the design of the pieces for the knee of the head? They look much too complicated compared to drawings in books by Goodwin, Antscherl, Lavery, Steel and other researchers/writers Fritz.
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You are spot on. Many, not all, kit makers either have no idea how ships were planked, or don't seem to find it of any importance. Study the articles here at MSW for some excellent guidance on lining off and then how to actually pre-shape the planks before applying them on the hull. It is not a matter of just trying to bend them in shape on the hull. If done properly there is little or no need for clamps to hold forced bends in place. Fritz
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There are plans for Victory 1737 and 1765 and thousands of other ships on the RMG Collections Website in low resolution. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/search/Victory plans There are about 800 of these in high resolution on the Wiki Commons website. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich. British gun patterns that would be appropriate, depending on the year of the ship would be one of those below. Also, the carriage designs changed a lot over time so matching the carriage to the gun pattern is something else to consider. Fritz The below is a typical plan of a lower gun deck. This happens to be a lower gun deck for a 64 gun ship the Inflexible. You might want to consider a cross section model instead of the entire deck. One example dated 1808 is below
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I have seen contemporary models and read in Volume II of The Fully Framed Model as well as it appearing in planking expansion drawings that show the wales are always tapered in thickness near the bow so they seat properly in the rabbet the same as all the other planks. Do the instructions explain this? Thanks Fritz
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Sorry for the confusion, but I meant was the cutter included, not the davits. Thanks Fritz
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I am pretty sure there are no AL kits with planking as was done on actual ship. Study the articles as Phil suggests. In the end, with the exception of a drop plank with a sniped end, all the strakes end at the rabbet and never came to a pointy end. Fritz The below left is similar to many kit makers' instructions and is totally unrealistic. The planking on the right is what it should look like if you are interested in accuracy.
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Very nice model! Was the cutter hanging from the stern davits part of the kit? It looks really good! Fritz
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Anytime trying something new there are articles and other sources that members can give you on how to do things like planking. Check out the Articles Database here at MSW or videos like the four part series on planking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM It is a good idea to research everything before putting on the glue, be it a scratch build or assembling kit parts. Fritz
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Are you speaking about marking out the strakes of planking? Fritz
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