There's Storkyrkoskeppet from the main church in Stockholm, a contemporary model of a late 16th century galleon presumably made around 1600. It's a votive ship, meaning that the hull is deliberately more slender than it should have been to enable view from below (it's been hanging in the church). The model is now stored at the museum and a new model is on display in the church.
Link to the register card at the musem:
http://www.marinmuseum.se/sv/Samlingar/MarketStore/Foremal1/?msobjid=0012441
There's Storkyrkoskeppet from the main church in Stockholm, a contemporary model of a late 16th century galleon presumably made around 1600. It's a votive ship, meaning that the hull is deliberately more slender than it should have been to enable view from below (it's been hanging in the church). The model is now stored at the museum and a new model is on display in the church.
Link to the register card at the musem:
http://www.marinmuseum.se/sv/Samlingar/MarketStore/Foremal1/?msobjid=0012441
13/09/2010
There! I finally completed the hull planking. It took me two full months! I now have to sand it and put on the keel, stem and sternpost so that it looks respectable...
Well I'm not ashamed of my result even if I did some mistakes. First of all, I'll try and remember to taper planks at the bow next time I plank a hull. I said before that the instructions in Constructo's booklet were good and I should have paid more attention to the pics: you can clearly see that they tapered their planks so that there are as many on the bow as on the main frame... As Kester wisely foresaw, you can avoid tricky strong plank bends at the bottom of the hull if you taper the planks all the way. I'll know for the next one.
Since my last entry, I discovered paper clips and strong rubber bands which I now find invaluable: no plank can have the last word when tied up with a solid rubber band ... nor can any hopping clip!
They say "practice makes perfect", (I prefer the French version: it is by forging that one becomes a blacksmith (that does not mean the blacksmith is perfect!!!)... I now manage to knock brass nails properly!
There are also a few bumps here and there, mainly due to a bad clamping during drying time, I guess. And the hull would definitely need some caulking if it were to float because of the few gaps between planks below the water line!!!
I decided on planking the deck before I get carried along and forget to do it before glueing the bulwarks... The instructions said to do it before hull planking but I was concerned about spoiling it with glue stains from my fingers while maintaining planks for the first minutes of glue drying...
I decided on a three plank pattern with 5 x 60 mm planks which seem reasonable at this scale. Here are the first three planks laid down.
I also tried a caulking technique: I used a brown pencil (Faber-Castell Dark Sepia #175) between the planks after glueing and sanding them and applied one layer of varnish. I find the result satisfying though I should put a bit more (the sanding between varnish layers removes it a little).
19/09/2010
I completed my deck planking today. It went all right even if I realized it was a good thing not to spoil any plank, considering what I am left with... I said there were plenty of planks provided but if it was true for the hull (eight full length planks left plus a huge amount of big pieces) it was not for the deck: just enough of it.
I also owe an apology to Constructo: reading the instructions again, I found that they tell us to use 8 cm long planks and to use a two-plank pattern...
Matle got a reaction from Archi in Ships of the late 16th century?
Matle got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Ships of the late 16th century?