tkay11

I would just add that there is some flexibility in the various dimensions, so there's no need to stick rigidly to the plans. The most important thing to check is the centre mark for the upright, which can be done by putting a pin in the centre of the smallest collet in the headstock, and pushing an initial template card onto it. I am sure each machine will have a slight variation, and there's the thickness of the card base of the upright to consider.
 
Tony

I wouldn't throw out the Proxxon FET table saw, especially as you are based in the UK. I own one, and though I often lusted after a Byrnes, the easy availability and lower overall cost of the Proxxon made my choice. I don't regret it. It has its quirks, but once I got to grips with the workings of its adjustments after a lot of experimentation, I am easily able to cut accurately to a tolerance of 0.1mm. You can buy an adapter if you need to buy blades of different widths but Proxxon do a good range of their own. You can cut wood up to 19mm thick, but if you turn it over and re-cut from the other side you can go up to 38mm.
 
Sure, the Byrnes is a lot better, but is it really worth that much more after shipping and customs are taken into account? I'd buy it like a shot if I were in America, but I'm not. I did buy the Byrnes draw plate and would strongly recommend that, though. There's nothing else to beat it.
 
The main things to look out for when using the Proxxon saw are:

* Making sure the fence is really at right angles to the table when in position and clamped.
 
* Recognising there are three controls for the fence. The order for adjustment being: clamping the slider very firmly in roughly the right position, and finally clamping the fence to the slider.
 
* Using feeler gauges to get to that last 0.1 mm
 
These Proxxon saws are used throughout Europe by the leading ship modellers, as well as the Proxxon MF70 mill which I also have. Axminster is a great source for refurbished items of the mill which they occasionally advertise on eBay. I got mine for £110.
 
When buying tools, it's probably best not to buy everything at once. I didn't. Over several years, after I had worked out that ship modelling was definitely for me, and at each stage when I discovered that an additional tool would indeed serve me well, I bought it. Wherever possible I researched eBay and looked for refurbished items. That way I could be assured of their use over time, and spread the cost over the years. I reckon that way I've spent on overall average roughly £150 per year on tools, and another £150 on books per year during that time.
 
I fully agree that getting or making for yourself a good set of chisels is one of the best things you could invest in, and learn how to sharpen.
 
Another thing you might look out for is an Axminster refurbished Proxxon DSH scroll saw. These regularly sell around the £90 mark. Lots of blades available for that.
 
I use a lot of other Proxxon tools as well: their micromot 50 drill, the smaller sander, the pen sander, footswitch and various vices (including the excellent Proxxon PM40 precision steel vice and their PMZ precision table clamping vice).
 
I would avoid the standard Proxxon drill stand (the cheapest one) as it is inaccurate and needs careful alteration to make it perfectly vertical: although I made sufficient adjustments to make it into a reasonable milling device, in the end I went for the MF 70 mill. Many modellers use their bench drills with much satisfaction.
 
Finally, if you want real icing on the cake, there is the Proxxon DH40 Planer Thicknesser -- but only if you are going to be cutting a lot of wood to very accurate thickness!
 
Chronos are often cheaper than Axminster for tools, and include the cost of shipping in their prices. Both are firms with excellent support and service.
 
Finally, although it's important to have the right tools, and even though you can pick up a huge amount of advice by using ship modelling fora and the internet, I have found books to be at least as important.
 
I hope this helps,
 
Tony