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tkay11

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  1.    toms10 reacted to a post in a topic: Is there a trick to making deadeyes?
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  5. tkay11
    Spitalfields Life strikes again! Thanks! Tony
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  20. tkay11
    Nice job! Sometimes stealers are just necessary: otherwise builders of real ships would not have used them. Tony
  21.    Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic: HM Cutter by Edwardkenway - 1:48 scale from Caldercraft plans
  22. tkay11
    That's for those of us who still have cars with spare wheels. Then there's carrying the spare wheel into our flat and finding space. All the same, a nice idea. I don't intend to buy the cans. Tony
  23. tkay11
    I just love the continual flow of ideas that reflect the fact that thinking through a problem makes up most of the fun of model building. This one is a real treat. I liked the ProKCon joke. Tony
  24. tkay11
    Thanks, Kurt. That's valuable knowledge and very helpful. Any advice about the compressor and paints that go best with this setup? I've been thinking about airbrushing for a while, but have been put off by the expense. I agree about the lack of fine line painting not being an obstacle: I was only mentioning in case it's a problem for others. Tony
  25. tkay11
    I believe the Badger kit with the aerosol can referred to is ok but for larger areas. Feedback on Amazon suggests it's hard to use for fine lines. This may be all you want if you want to spray, for example, everything below the waterline or other large areas. Some people on YouTube have adapted it to be used with compressors, so it's worth a look. Tony
  26. tkay11
    It must be very satisfying to achieve this after you set yourself this task. Seeing it makes me feel what I imagine to be your pleasure in this work. Thanks for sharing. It would be nice if you could add details about your work methods, techniques and how you overcome problems you have come across. Tony
  27. tkay11
    Just as a matter of interest, what CAD software are you using? Tony
  28. tkay11
    You might also get some ideas from the Dutch herring boats of the period. I think I read somewhere that they were very similar to the fifies (perhaps in the book 'Inshore Craft: Traditional Working Vessels of the British Isles' by Basil Greenhill, but I may be mistaken. They operated in the same area of the North Sea. Ab Hoving is an expert on Dutch vessels so you might pm him, and Kees de Mol has a nice model of a Dutch Herring Lugger which shows a wheel positioned similarly to that on the Lady Eleanor. Model Shipwright no 118 had a modeller's draught and plans of the Reaper . However, I don't think you'll find details of the steering mechanism there. Tony
  29. tkay11
    Great to see you're into the mods, B.E. I was interested in your comments about the look of the deck, so I had a look in Edgar March's book on sailing trawlers but there's not much there on decking. I know the fifie was a drifter rather than a trawler, but if you don't have the book and if it helps, the following is what is said about smack design: "The covering board of 12 by 2½ in. oak was laid over the heads of the frames, stanchions fitted through the mortices and bolted to shelf or frames, the deck planks were pitch pine, 5 by 2½ in, with a margin plank varying in width according to the beam of the hull. Planks had to be joggled into the covering board when the "snape" or diagonal cut across the width left a nib-end less than 2in wide, a sliver edge being impossible to caulk." Also in case you've not already seen it, there's the website on the restoration of the Swan which shows pictures of the deck, but that is in its modern re-incarnation so probably is of no use to you. The one picture of it in its original state doesn't seem sharp enough to see the deck planking details. The book on the Swan may give you more if you need it. Tony
  30. tkay11
    Don't forget the Taig/Peatol lathes. They're excellent for model makers, cheaper than the Sherline, have a huge range of accessories, lots of instructional videos on the web, and a very nice idea for a tailstock. They are also available quite often on eBay. I bought mine in the UK with a huge range of accessories some years ago for £400 which at the time would have been a little over US$550. I have the tool rest for wood turning, so although I have the perfectly good Proxxon wood lathe, I now only use that for the longer pieces such as masts. Tony
  31. tkay11
    Phosphoric acid or rust conversion gels are said to blacken steel. I've never tried it myself, though. Tony
  32. tkay11
    It sounds simpler than building up the gunports again. Unless, of course, you have a mind to practicing skills. Tony
  33. tkay11
    Wonderful! A real treat to have followed and learned from! Thanks! Tony
  34. tkay11

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