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tkay11

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  1. A good start. Watch out for the height of the gunports above the deck so as to allow the cannon to go through without a problem. You can make a card cutout of a gun in order to do this. Glue stains on wood have a nasty habit of poking through, so you may need more than one layer of paint. It's worthwhile thinking about how to use the minimum amount of glue to avoid spill. If you're using PVA a quick wipe with a damp cloth on any excess will do the trick. Another way is to use a toothpick to pick up excess from corners immediately after gluing. CA glue is much harder to hide or wipe, so you need to be much more careful with that. I'd also protect the stem, keel and stern from further damage as you plank and sand. Some people put these on after planking in order to avoid the damage, but putting tape over them will also work. As you know, luckily there are lots of excellent build logs of the Sherbourne on this site which really are worth studying. They will help you with such details, will point out pitfalls to avoid before you get to them, and people no doubt will also pop in to help you as you progress. It's an excellent model to start with, and allows you many possibilities for improvement as you get into it. Tony
  2. Sorry to butt in, Vaddoc, but I'd like to ask a question. I've enjoyed this thread as it has gone into the difficulties of 3D design. It makes me ponder all the more at the work that goes into the various 3D designs on this site based on old plans (the fully rigged Swan class 3D model being one amazing example) which seem to have all the right parts in the right order in the right places (with acknowledgements to Eric Morecombe). Like some others, I also use 2D CAD a lot to replicate parts of plans, design my own parts, double check dimensions etc., but I have often wondered how to use a CAD programme to 'straighten out' the planks to provide their accurate flat dimensions before bending. This seems a very useful function of CAD in order to be able to predict (albeit roughly) the width of planks to cut and therefore of amounts of wood to order. So, as an aside, would you be able to provide a quick tutorial on how this is done, or point me to somewhere I could find out about that? Thanks Tony
  3. Thanks for the link, druxey. Very impressive. I think I'll pass on this one as I'm saving up for a small mill, but I'm intrigued as to how you found it. Is it that you like poring over the Sotheby's catalogues? Or do you know David G. Birch? Is he very well known? A quick search on the internet didn't provide any clue as to which David G. Birch might have made this model. When I added 'model maker' to the name, there's a fellow who works for HSBC as a financial modeler; but I don't expect that to be the same as the builder. I wonder if wefalck knows, or one of the others who have these wonderful metal-working skills. Tony
  4. I forgot to say I still struggle with the planking myself, but, as you suggest, every time I do it I get a bit better! At least I think I know how it should be done! Tony
  5. I don't know if you've read the various planking tutorials on this site, but just in case you haven't they're really worth studying. If you go to the forum for "Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck" this points you to the planking tutorials. Chuck's tutorials are particularly good on spiling and bending with heat alone (i.e. without soaking the wood or using steam). Tony
  6. Just catching up with a few months away from following build logs, so sorry if I'm butting in a bit too late. I've been considering whether to build a Triton full build, so it's been interesting to follow your own progress. With regard to your comments about the difficulties with your planking, it may be an artefact of the way the photos are taken, but I can't see the pencil markings for your plank widths on the last two bulkheads. The width of the planks at the stern seem to be wider than the marks on the third last bulkhead would suggest. Might that be a source of difficulty? Tony
  7. Your Sherbourne, as for your other models, demonstrates the satisfaction to be obtained from spending time to make sure every detail is as perfect as it can be for the scale. It has been a real pleasure to watch this one grow over the years. Thanks a lot, Dirk, for sharing all those wonderfully interesting stages with us. Tony
  8. Thanks, Frankie and Gregory. I'm really glad I could share the photos and that others have found them useful. Tony
  9. Aren't fiddle blocks only found amid the mast tackles? That would reinforce the point if so. Tony
  10. AAAH! The BINNACLE! I knew I'd forgotten something! As all the others have said, you continue with great stuff, Dirk, very inspiring. Thanks for all the excellent close-up details. Just one question of minor interest. It's only now I notice the lack of a hooded companionway. Was there a particular reason for that? Tony
  11. Very nice, Dave. I have had the same experience. After making several parts in what I have thought to be exactly the same way as on a previous model, somehow, magically, they seem to come out better than the earlier ones. Tony
  12. What a nice model! Thanks for the many ideas you've provided in terms of paintwork and metal work in addition to your usual lovely craftmanship. The flintlock cover is a clever addition. I also like the simplicity of the base. Is it stone? What's next? Tony
  13. Wonderful to see your work on this. I also appreciate the shots of a similarly-sized boat to show just how big it is. Thanks! Tony

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