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  1. I gave up with the card rudder and made it and the sternpost from wood. That way the fixing (using brass strips) is at least sound! Tony
  2. Interesting that you reinforced the stem. I should have thought of the risk in advance. I bent mine completely on the card/wood model I'm experimenting with (card frames and hull, everything else in wood). I ended up having to cut the stem near to the hull and make a new one from wood, then nail it to the card remnant along with some epoxy glue. Luckily it will all be painted so you shouldn't be able to tell it's a composite structure when finished. Tony
  3. The most important parts of the blurb on the Ancre site are: " This work of 480 pages hopes to reunite the history and construction of naval vessels while studying the important naval strategies and tactics. The second part is a maritime biography of the vessels and frigates which took part in this conflict while also publishing the original documents as far as possible. "20 frigates and 35 vessels have particular attention paid to them, thus allowing a refreshing look at traditional maritime history. "First part: Ch 1: French naviy at the end of the re
  4. Thanks for the replies. I agree about the frames and internal structures. These I have covered with nitrocellulose and the slight roughness after sanding doesn't matter. The problem is the external sides of the hull planking, which I also varnished. Perhaps I'm not using enough varnish/nitrocellulose. I've been wary of covering the external hull with CA as I wondered about the impact on the acrylic paint I use when I then apply it. However, I'll practice on some scrap -- something I should have done in the first place! Tony
  5. I continue to be amazed at the accuracy of your work. As for me, I still struggle with the sanding of card: it just comes out as a rough mess no matter what grade of carborundum paper I use, so my planking looks a real mess although the fitting is fine. Do you have any advice about better sanding? Tony
  6. I don't suppose you're having any difficulty, but just in case you are not aware, there are lots of excellent resources on the web for French nautical terms, especially those made during the 19th century. Best to search through search engines based in France. I have built my own French-English dictionary (a work in progress as you can imagine) as a Word table which can be searched both ways (I also do a fair amount of translation). Let me know by PM if you want links or a copy of the table. A very good printed version from Ancre is David Roberts' VOCABULAIRE DE MARINE bilingue angl
  7. Gluing wood to metal: the best I've found is an epoxy glue such as Araldite. Others use CA (cyanoacrylate). It depends slightly on the fitting, whether it's being placed in a hole in the wood (e.g. eyebolts), being wrapped round a rod (e.g. mast fittings), or laid surface to surface (e.g. rudder hinges). Tony
  8. It's available in two parts from Gallica in pdf format. As it's in the public domain it's quite legal and free. See http://www.plaisance-pratique.com/spip.php?page=imprimir_articulo&id_article=2863&lang=fr Excellent resource for anyone approaching lateen boats. Thanks, wefalck! Tony
  9. I agree that it's not relevant for your particular model, B.E. It's just that your approach would have been easier for me to use for the particular model I am experimenting on (a card/wood model of the Allège d'Arles at 1:100, and being experimental unlikely to have a build log). You gave me the idea of how to approach a problem with my build of a boat with a different waterline. Your waterline comes very close to the wale, and would require good masking technique to paint it as a straight line if done after the wale was added. In my model, the wale dips below the waterline, making
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