hopeful

Hey,
 
B.E. (Blue Ensign), Hakan (Wintergreen) and, Pete 38: You guys are great builders. Thanks for the encouragement!!!
 
Ok, here is where I am with the build....pushing to finish the work on the hull. If I had a magic wand it would finito!
 

 

 
Thanks for looking in on the build. All questions, comments, and constructive criticism is always appreciated.
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”

Yes, Russ. You are correct....bowsprit and jib boom. Made correction to my post 25. Thanks for looking in and noticing my error. BFN, David

Post 27 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Patrick & Randy: Thanks for stopping by the build. One of the great things about the forum is the learning experience made possible through all the build logs. 
 
Next......Wanted a change of pace so went ahead and made the bowsprit and jib boom, great fun. Material used was soft maple.
 
Photo 119
 

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Note to the forum....
 
Bob...Thanks for checking in.  I am a few days from restarting the build. Need to finish up the repost log and update my photo editor. Then I am good to go. Thanks for the encourgement.
 
Pete...Nice to hear from you. My build is coming along. Ready for the restart. Mindset is good. Thanks for your kind comments. I had the benefit of readiing all the Sultana logs including yours and mostly applied all that I learned from them. Miss those logs!!! I am following your Triton Cross Section Build. Seems you are having too much fun to ever repost your Sultana Log.   
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 26 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Adding the cap to the transom.....
 
Photo 114
 
Covered the transom with Timiya tape to protet it while adding the cap.......
 

 
Photo 115
 
Bending jig the same radius as the transom....
 

 
Photo 116
 
Testing the fit.....
 

 
Photo 117
 
Cap only goes to bottom of lowest part of transom molding. Later a fashion piece will connect the transom to the wales, see drawing in photo 106 in post 25 above.
 

 
Photo 118
 
Shows  inboard side of transom with cap and finished paint.
 

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)
 

Post 25 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Task is to build and add the transom
 
There are two ways to build the transom. One is to built it on the vessel, the second is make and assemble it off the vessel, then add it to the stern as a completed assembly. I decided my best hope was to work off the vessel and add the components to the stern later once finished.
 
This step in the build will really test your patience, it did mine!  Go slow.
 
Photo 106
 

 
Photo 107
 
Simple drawing made from my  stern. Wood part over sized for now.
 

 
Photo 108
 
Material is 2-ply birch plywood. Note the two holes between the 1 & 2nd and the 3rd & 4th window frames. These holes act pilot holes to enable the builder to assemble the three main components together for a perfect overlay of parts later  in the build. Take a peak at photo 111 to see the 3 component parts.
 

 
Photo 109
 
Dry fit to make sure I am on the right track.....
 

 
Photo 110
 
Applying lower moldings.....
 

 
Photo 111
 
Three components made to complete transom. One places and glues the components on the vessel one at a time using the guide holes. It is not possible to bend the entire assembly in one piece to the transom.
 

 
Photo 112
 
Three components glued together and added to transom prior to trimming edges to final dimensions.
 

 
Photo 113
 
Black behind windows is a piece of black film from the center of a comyter disc.The film is very thin and was given to me by Kip (Sawdust). Aternative is to paint behind the windows prior to assembling the transom.
 

 
Thanks for looking in on the build. Reposting of log almost completed, yeah!!!
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 24 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Task is to add the wales.
 
First step is to paint the hull an off white from the bottom of the first applied strake consistent with the practicum.
 
Photo 103
 

 
Photo 104
 
To afix the wales I first applied blue tape at the bottom and Timiya tape at the top of where the wale is to be glued in position. The method prevents the glue from sloshing around. End result is a prepainted wale glued to the hull without any hassel what-so-ever. I followed my presious practice of applying a one inch strip of PVA followed by a dot of CA to help the wales stick fast to the hull.
 
The pins hold the wales is place when guled to the hull.
 

 
Photo 105
 

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 23 of my Sultana Build
 
At this point in the build I made a pine display base for the vessel. I used a base of a model featured in the National Maritime Museum (NMM) as inspiration.  This was a fun project.
 
First I drilled three (3) holes through the keel and one inch into the hull 1/16” in diameter using my drill press. The holes will be fitted with 1/16” diameter brass pins 2” long. No need to glue-in the pins, they are to be friction fit only. Do not use tube for the pins as they will break off if you need to make hand adjustment to the hullk to make it straight once mounted.
 
Photo 96

 
Photo 97

 
Photo 98

 
Photo 99
 

 
Photo 100
 

 
Photo 101
 
Inorder to get the slope of the base parallel to the water line, I placed a block of wood to the underside of the bow end of the mounting board.
 

 
Photo 102
 

 
When I finish painting the monting board later in the build,  I will return to this post and show photos how it was done.
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 22 of my Sultan Build Log
 
First, Thanks Randy for stopping by. Note you have finiished planking your SF II, nicely done!
 
Repost continued.....
 
Next......Making & fitting the rudder before adding the transom. 
 
Photo 93

 
Photo 94

 
Photo 95
 
Must taper the rudder from front to back. Test to see positiong through the deck at this point.

 
Photo 96

BFN
 
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 21 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Task is to make and assemble the stem, keel and stern post to the vessel. Parts are of soft maple. Will post photos and follow with dialog later.
 
The stem, keel, and stern post were made of soft maple. In my first build the those parts took a real beating while I was building the vessel. I wanted tough wood for those parts on my Sultana.
 
I decided to make the stem in one piece rather than multiple parts. I took my time to make an almost perfect bow template before cutting wood. I cut the inner part of the stem piece first, and then placed a wider line than required to represent the outer portion of the stem. On the first pass the stem fit the hull almost perfectly. A bit of planning and patience really pays off.
 
I also made part of the bowsprit in order to determine if the stem was high enough for it to rest of the stem This turned out to be a good idea as I had to add a 4mm piece to the inner part of the stem to get it to the right height.  You can see the addition in Photo 89
 
Photo 86

 
Photo 87
 
Please notice that the stem was thicker than the keel by a few mm's. I did this on purpose because I new I would never be able to get the two piece to mate perfectly when gluing them together. Once the two parts were glued together I had only a small bit of sanding to do in order make them the same height.
 

 
Photo 88
 
Make certain the bowsprit is at the correct angle per the drawings before adjusting the stem.
 

 
Photo 89
 
Note an additional piece was added as a place to rest the bowsprit on the stem. Final fit of the stem to the bow.
 

 
Photo 90
 
To glue the stem and keel together perfectly flat and true I placed them on a sheet piece of glass. Once the glued dried I only had to sand the joint lightly with 200 grit paper on a wood block.  I learned this and many other building techniques from Danny.
 

 
Photo 91
 
When fitting the keel and the stem to the vessel I noted that a little putty needed to be added in several places as well a some sanding.  With this in mind, I covered the keel and stem with blue tape to protect the parts. Here the keel and stem are glued to the vessel. Pins keep the components centered.
 

 
Photo 92
 

 
 
Words to follow.......
 
 
BFN
 
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 21 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Task is to plank and paint the inner bulwarks. Bulwark stanchions are not required with this build.
 
Photo 84
 
I used the bending plank to prepare the wood for the bow portion of the bulwarks. The planks were painted with a gouache paint. It is water base and dries dead flat....no sheen.  One can overpaint easily if touch-ups are required. I went for the paint because of its dead flat character.
 

 
Photo 85
 
Am continuing to protect the deck with low tack painters blue tape. The paint work is done with the exception of the interior transom which comes later in the build.
 

 
 
Will add the verbage as an edit.
 
 
BFN
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory Kit)
 
  

Post 20 Of my Sultana Build Log
 
Next step was to add the remaining strakes above the wales and fair the hull.
 
Photo 82
 

 
 
Photo 83
 
Planked the counter. 
 

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Note to the forum:
Russ & DavidB:  Thanks for the update regarding cherry. Did not realize it was so broadly used in boat building. I have a real good wood store close by and will go there and buy some cherry for my wood bin. Good to know, Russ, it has application for making blocks.
 
Have a great weekeng guys
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)
.

Note to the forum.....
 
David B: I have used cherry but not for boatbuilding. You have encouraged me to take another look. You are right it machines and sands well. What are the best uses for cherry?
 
Bob (hexnut): Thanks for stopping by. Thanks for your kind comments. One of the challenges with the Sultana is that it is in 1:64 scale and very detailed when using Chuck's practicum, priceless. I will start putting something in the photo to give one a better sense of scale. Hull is 10" between the perps, if memory serves.
 
 I looked at your "smack" build....nice work, Bob. You must be an illustrator as your drawing is very professional.  Wish you well as you move along.
 
Patrick:  Thanks for your kind words about my build. I'm building the Sultana to get solid hull experience. Some aspects of the kit have given me problems but that is how we learn.
 
I have and continue to follow your Niagara build, just terrific. Two vessel I really like are the Niagara and the Syren. Ready to enjoy the rigging part of your build!
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 19 of my Sultana Build
 
Task is to treenail the deck. Used an awl to mark the location of the treenails.
 
Photo 79
 

 
Photo 80
 
Used a size 73 drill for the treenails holes.
 
 

 
Photo 81
 
Finished deck with treemails.
 

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Sultana Post 18 begin photo 73
 
Task is to lay the deck and margin plank.
 
I milled the deck boards out of soft maple. In the future I’ll use bass wood or Swiss pear because soft maple is hard to work.The margin plank was made of 2 plybirch plywood.
 
Photo 73
 

 
Photo 74

 
Photo 75
 

 
Photo 76
 

 
Photo 78
 
Deck prior to adding treenails
 

 
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi Mates,
 
Post 17 of my Sultana Build Log
 
As a diversion, I decided to do a few deck projects making the deck grates and the binnacle.
 
Photo 70
 
Beech wood grate material from Amati
 

 
Photo 71
 
Grates without frames
 

 
Photo 72
 
Grates with outer frames
 

 
Photo 73
 
Binnacle
 

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 16 of my Sultana Build Log
 
For a bit of relief from deck work I went ahead and attached three strakes to the hull using a combination of PVA and CA glues.
 
I applied an inch of PVA followed by drop of CA repeating the use of CVA and CA the length of the strake. This method enables a quick bond of the strake to the hull. I always use CA strategically applying it carefully.  CA has its place. I strive to be very neat with glue to help create a clean build…..easier said than done!
 
The process went smoothly.
 
(Note the strakes look as if they are clinkered at the bow. Clinkering is when strakes overlap one another.  That is not the case here. The strakes bump out every so slightly at their low edge casting a shadow due to the compound curve of the hull. Light sanding will eliminate the high points in the strakes when the hull is faired above the wales.)
 
Photo 68

 
Photo 69

  Will add the remainder of the strakes after planking the deck.
 
BFN      
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi Mates,
 
Post 15 of my Sultana Build Log
 
As it so happened…….
 
At this point Kip (Sawdust) noted it would be easier to cut the hole in the deck for the rudder post now, not later when the deck has been planked. It is fortunate that Kip’s build is at the rigging stage so I am able to benefit from his building experience to that point.
One thing leads to another….
 
First step was to make and pin a temporary stern post in place to facilitate drilling a pilot hole up through the counter and through the deck at the right location.
 
Photo 62
 

 
Photo 63
 
How to add lenght to a short drill.
 

 
Photo 64
 
 Glued with a touch of CA glue.
 

 
Photo 65
 
Be oh so careful here.
 

 
Photo 66
 
Sometimes we get lucky!
 

 
Photo 67
 
Rudder post through the deck opening. 
 

 
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum)
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build)
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Post 14 of my Sultana Build Log
 
At this point I am deviating from the practicum and following Kip’s idea of working on the deck prior to adding the strakes to the hull. This will allow easy access to the deck for adding the margin plank, etc., because the bulwarks will be added later.
 
Photo 60
 
When following the drawing to lay out the hatch positions I found the fore deck was to short versus the drawing. To fix the problem I added the later darker board you see at the stern end of the fore deck. Stupid mistake in reading the drawings way back when. I also had to redrill the fore mast hole.
 
Here is when I also drilled and cut out the location for the ladder. The blue tape indicates where the hatches will be placed.
 

 
Photo 61
 
Prior to removing the blue tape I painted the hatch locations black.
 

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi Russ,
 
Thanks for looking in on the build. The bending board was a modification to one I saw in another Sultana Build log. Life was good using the jig. As you said, "makes the build much more enjoyable".
 
Hope you have time to work on your Biloxi Schooner. I really enjoy following your build logs.
 
Cheers,
 
Hopeful aka David
 

 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 

 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
 
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 

 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)
 

Post 12 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Photo 57
 
Strake bending boards made of pine scrap. To make the bending boards I placed the hull deck down on the pine boards and ran a pencil around the edges and cut them out. Made two in order to bend twice the number of strakes at a time. Soaked the bass wood in hot water for 10 minutes then bent and clamped the strakes to fit the jig. I made sure the wood was clapmed 1" beyond the center line on the bending board.
 

 
Photo 58
 

 
Photo 59
 

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi mates,
Post 11 of my Sultana Build Log
Task is to reduce the thickness of the hull above the wales by the thickness of one strake which is 1/16”-1.6mm. 
 
To make this task easier I made a simple jig by drilling a 1/16” diameter hole through a 1’ long piece of dowel rod. I put a slight radius on the out board end of the dowel. Then the dowel is slipped over the end of the drill with just 1/16”of the drill protruding from the end of the dowel.
 
To use the jig, drill into the hull until it reaches the dowel. Presto, you now have a 1/16’ deep hole in the hull. By placing a series of holes in the hull above the wales one can begin to sand to the bottom of the holes and the hull will be 1/16” deeper than the surface at the wales.
 
Photo 52

 
Photo 53

 
Photo 54

 
Photo 55

 
Photo 56

 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi Mates,
 
Post 10 of my Sultana Build log
 
Photo 51
 
Next step is to make certain the distance from the centerline of the deck to the top edge of the hull conforms to the drawing. Simple matter of using a divider to take the dimensions from the deck drawing and match them to the deck. I took a measurements from the drawing every 1/2" the entire length of the deck.
 
Please note the mesaurement is wide just a tiny bit versus the drawing dimension. A little sanding needs to be done to fair the hull a bit more in that particuliar spot. It is always best to check the dimension over a distance of two-three inches to get a picture what is going on.  When the dimensions of the entire lenght of the deck, both starboard and port, are correct to the drawing dimentions, one can move on to the next step in the build.
 

 
Thanks for looking in on the build.
 
BFN
Cheers,
 
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Hi Mates,
 
First, Thank you Russ for looking in on the build.I recall some adavice you gave me back when I was fairing the hull. The advice helped me to learn how to interpret the drawings and transfer the knowledge to fairing the hull, magic!  Thanks!
 
Post 9 of my Sultana Build Log
 
Chucks practicum calls for planking the hull begining at the top of the wales. Planking above the wales elevates the look and feel of the hull and, hence the model.
 
Photo 46
 
First step is define the top of the wale. I did so by taking measurements from the drawing to establish the top of the wales and pinned a plank to the hull at that position........the top of the wale is the top of the plank. Then I marked a line following the top side of the plank.The plank went just past the centerline of the bow. This step was repeated on  the port side of the vessel.
 

 
Photo 47
 

 
Photo 48
 
Indicates reference line on the hull at the top of the wales
 

 
Photo 49
 

 
Photo 50
 
Notice a very slight rise at the bow.
 

 
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
 
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”
 
Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted on kit build log.
Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build
 
Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)