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hopeful

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    scale model boat building, researching topics of interest, food, fine art, literature, & friends of similar interests

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  1. HI Tony, Just getting back to work on my build after some absence. Thought I would fist stop by your build log to see what you have been doing. Wow, I always learn lots by going through your log. Wish you well as you move along this year. Cheers, Hopeful aka David
  2. Congratulations on the completion of yet another masterpiece, Mario. Wonderful accomplishment!!!
  3. Hi Keith, I too wish you well with your Titanic build. Intend to follow as you move along. Look likes you are off to a good start. Cheers, Hopeful aka David "There is wisdom in many voices".
  4. Hi Tony, NO, no, the massive drill press is used to drill only mast holes. Am familiar with the Proxxon M70, and builders using it seem pleased with the unit. Like everything else, how much does one want to invest in a micro milling machine. Based on everything I have done to date on my Sherline milling machine, the M70 is more than adequate to do the job. Nice thing about the Sieg X1 is the "y" axis travel distance, 4"/105mm. The M70 "y" axis travel distance is 1 13/16". One of the issues is how important is the "y" travel distance to you? Good luck with you choice. I must adit I am partial to the M70 at 300 quid. Thanks for your kind remarks about my work. I have a lot of wood working experience building period furniture as a past hobby. I am very much a novice when it comes to boat building I do, however love the challenge of boat building (thought provoking and humbling) and very much enjoy the forum. Was at the NMM a month or so back. They currently have an excellent exhibit of British warships from 1650-1720. If you have the chance take a look, well worth the time!!! Excellent chips as well in the cafeteria!!!! Look forward to your next post. Cheers, Hopeful aka David "There is wisdom in many voices".
  5. Hi Alex, Welcome to MSW. Am looking forward to following your build of the Lady Nelson. If you need a bit of inspiration to keep you going take a look at Ray's LN build log and his photos in the gallery section. Also suggest you take a look at Tony's build of the Sherbourne which is very close to the LN. Lots to learn from those two builders. The LN is a beautiful model when finished. Enjoy the ride! Wish you well as you move along. Cheers, Hopeful aka David "There is wisdom in many voices."
  6. I admire your determination, Tony! Making blocks in any size has got to be a real challenge. Your final set-up seems to work well for you. Thanks for taking the time to share your methods and progress. Have you considered a milling machine? Wish you well as you move along. Cheers, Hopeful aka David "There is wisdom in many voices".
  7. Nice, Jack. Very nice indeed! Look forward to the rigging of your BN. Cheers, Hopeful aka David "There is wisdom in many voices".
  8. Hi Rusty, Am really enjoying your build. Terrific work. Am awestruck at the physical size of the section. A museum piece fore sure!!! Wish you well as you move along! Cheers, Hopeful aka David "Standards set are standards met".
  9. Wonderful build, Kester! Terrific photos. Thanks for updating your log. I never tire looking at Sherbourne and Lady Nelson builds. Cheers, Hopeful aka David "Standards set are standards met".
  10. Hi mates, Thanks Grant, Pete, and Adam for your kind remarks re the paint job of my Phantom hull. I appreciate your looking in on the build. Good to know I am not alone in the world of ship building! Post 10 of my Phantom Build Log I am trying to get a bunch of steps finished prior to laying the fore and aft decks and waterways. This, hopefully, will lessen the chance of damaging the decks. Objectives: First cut a slot in the bulwarks at the stem for the bow sprit, and second too test fit the cap rail to the top of the bulwarks. The bow sprit is to rest on the stem and pass through the slot in the bulwarks and into a square hole in the samson post. Locating the bows sprit in this manner ensures that it is placed at the correct angle. A cast metal samson post combined with the windlass is provided in the kit. The builder has the option of using the kit supplied metal sampson post and windlass or making one from scratch at 1/96, yikes!! Photo 42 The metal samson post has small round legs. I drilled two holes in the deck and pressed the posts into the deck, no glue used. I started the slot with #11 blade followed by a needle file. Shows slot being cut with a tapered/square needle file. The slot is the same width as the bowsprit. Photos 43, 44, and 45 Multiple views of the bow sprit positioned through the slot in the bulwarks and through the Samson post. Note that the bowsprit slot is just a tad lower the bulwarks. Photo 46 and 47 Photo shows the cap rail resting on the bulwarks. As you can see, I have a bit of work to do to ensure the caprail is too scale in terms of width and thickness, etc. Thanks for checking the build. Comments and suggestions always appreciated. Cheers, Hopeful aka David “Standards set are standards met”, hopefully!
  11. HI Pete, Like your zero clearance insert. Is the cherry staying flat for you. What blade are you using? Looks like you are putting your table saw to good use. Oh, how is the cherry pulling though the plate? Cheers, Hopeful aka David
  12. Hi mates, Adam (SkerryAmp): Thanks for looking at the build and for your comments, much appreciated. Post #9 of my Phantom Build Log Task was to paint the hull, bulwarks (exterior and interior), and the rudder. As mentioned, I will not be adding copper plates to the hull below the waterline. The acrylic paint scheme is black, copper over black to the exterior of the hull and bulwarks, and egg shell white to the interior of the bulwarks. First step was to reapply the waterline to make sure that the pencil line is dark. I then painted gesso everywhere paint was going to appear. After the gesso I applied ¼” wide Tamiya tape at the upper hull side of the waterline. I use Tamiya tape because it is thin, has a cut edge, and is very sticky. Bob (bburlman) recommended I use Tamiya when I built my first vessel. It works far better than masking tape or blue tape. As I am using acrylic copper paint to represent copper below the waterline I painted black as an undercoat prior to applying the copper color. Process was gesso, black, and copper colors below the waterline. Copper over black is much deeper and richer in appearance. Photo 38 Shows black color applied over gesso. I gently rubbed the black paint with number 400 steel wool before apply the copper color. I used the wool to eliminate paint brush strokes and cut the gloss of acrylic paint. Note how the tape line is revealed after using the wool. Paint tends builds up along the waterline and needs to be smoothed out. Photo 39 Painted the copper color over the black undercoat and removed the tape to show the waterline. Photo 40 Next step was to apply tape over the copper color as close to the edge of the paint as possible prior to painting the black color above the waterline. Photo 41 Hull painted black and the tape removed to show the completed hull. The rudder was painted away from the hull and then added for the photograph. There was a very, very fine raised line where the two paint colors met. The line is visible to the eye and obvious to the touch and must be leveled out to look right. I used number 400 steel wool to accomplish the task. Now the paint colors blend beautifully into one another. Do not use sand paper for this task. The fine line to be removed is measured in microns. Thanks for looking in on the build. Comments and questions always welcomed. BFN, Hopeful aka David “Standards set are standards met”.
  13. Hi Mates, In response to those looking in on the build: BE: Always nice to have to look in on the build. Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. Boys 12345: Have fun building your Phantom. Thanks for your comments re the dimensions of the vessel between the perpendiculars. I appreciate your attention to detail. The vessel, per the "Arrangement & Lines" drawing is 9 7/16" measured from the outboard edge of the transom forward to the outside edge of the stem. Minus the width of the stem, your 9 1/4 measurement is ultra close to mine; within a 1/16". Yes, I too had to remove a fair amount of the hull blank at the stern end. As to the placement of the waterline, I do not think the drawing is correct. The waterline per the drawing seemed to high at the stern. I checked how Chuck placed his waterline on the vessel in his practicum and followed his example which was higher and I felt more correct. Yes, I did add the wood strips under the stern end of the vessel (photo 22, page 2) in order to lower the waterline in that area. Again, your attention to detail is impressive. Am Looking forward to following your build. BTW, the dimensions were amended on page one of the build. Thanks! Max: Nice to hear from you. Thanks for checking out my build and for your encouragement. Checked your log a few days ago. Very nice work on the deck furniture. Your build is going to be sweet when finished, laid deck and all, wow! JP: I always appreciate your questions, they make me think! The plan drawings show the whales as being curved. Why I don't know. Another portion of the drawings shows no curve in the wale. I'll have to ask Chuck his opinion as to why the wale is curved. Stay tuned, JP! Have completed some additional work on my build and will post the results today. BFN, Hopeful aka David "Standards set are standards met".

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