Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

Boeing774

Members
  • Posts

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Boeing774

  1. I use Zap-a-gap glues, the green and purple versions. I think the way I try to reduce the amount of excess is by sanding it down afterwards. For instance, with some PE ladders on my ship, I'll first set them in place with tape, use the thin, purple version (which will naturally run along the entire length of the ladder), and then sand down whatever excess there is. I think this works for most things, but I've seen some models where the ladders stick out and have tiny contact points, so the glue won't stick as well. Here I think sanding would be trickier since you'd have to sand under the ladders. I haven't encountered these, but maybe an accelerator would work. As for control, something I find works very well for me is "stabilizing" my hand with other things. I'll put be ring and pinky fingers on the table or rest it on my other hand hold the model. It may or may not work well for you, but have a go with it I suppose .
  2. I used Tamiya paints. I'll try both methods later today
  3. About the tape residue on the model, can I use a towel soaked in the warm water to wipe off the tape stuff?
  4. Finally back, grabbed a couple models from the Tamiya store in Tokyo. I'm assuming using a towel soaked in the warm water works so that I don't have to soak the model in it? Thanks I've also been following along with your Missouri build, since I have the Veryfire Iowa kit stashed away.
  5. When I was unwrapping the model, there was still the "sticky residue" on the ship, which I want to get rid of. Any ideas?
  6. It’s been a while but I’ve been working throughout. I thought I’d paint the hull and then show you guys but I got carried away and decided to paint most of the ship: Unfortunately I’ll be away for a month but am stopping by Tokyo, which means…models! Cheers!
  7. Some more progress, the wood deck has finally been fitted and the hull primed. I used Mr Aqueous Surfacer, but in a spray can, which I used since it was much easier to cover larger areas, but also because I didn’t have the glass jar ones. I also skipped completely priming the gun tubs because I didn’t want to lose out the wooden deck detail. I might skip priming the superstructure because spray canning it might make me lose detail. I heard that not using a primer makes the paint flake off the PE, does varnish help seal the paint? Some blemishes from dust and paint sticking, to be dealt with: Work hours: 144 hrs
  8. During the break from Jan to Jun I managed to get my hands on after market sets for not only a wooden deck but also PE gun tubs. Here’s the first half of the deck and tubs installed: At the same time I’ve been experimenting with weathering on my Sullivans, which I’ve been building along side Alaska. I like the results and although the salt streaks are hidden by the light, rest assured, they exist: Your thoughts? Lastly, a photo from a couple days ago of most of the main subassemblies stacked together:
  9. Thanks, I really do think taking my time with PE is helpful. It takes like an hour for each bit, but they turn out pretty nice and anyways I can listen to Drachinifel for bit as well
  10. Some more work on the railings, this time the 5 in mounts: Work also begins on one of the cranes: Work hours: 77 hrs
  11. More photoetch today. The kits photoetch isn’t great, there are so many pieces that are too long and so I ended up cutting the railings into different segments. Annoying, but it worked: As for the catapult, how does the cradle fold? There are four little foldable tabs: Work hours: 73 hrs
  12. It’s been…a while. Schools finally over so work resumes. Very happy with the PE railings: Some fiddly bits as well: Overall: Work times: 65 hrs
  13. A bit late to say this but Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!
  14. Huh, I just realized that. I'm pretty sure the maker intended for it to be another gunsight for some reason because it has a gun sight etched in it I'm pretty sure. I might let it go though...
  15. Only 5 hrs of work today, but well spent time: I’m thoroughly happy with how it turned out compared to the other one: Also spent some of the week making some oerlikons. Here one: Total work: 58 hrs
  16. A tad bit of work but extremely tedious and fiddly: Another 6 hours on these brings the total to 53. School starts again tomorrow and I’ll content myself to a couple of oerlikons a day I suppose.
  17. Also what color recommendations do you guys have for Alaska's deck blue (20-B) and ocean gray (5O). I've been using tamiya's XF-50 and I think it's been working well for me, although I'm not sure if it's accurate. For 5O I bought Vallejo's dark sea gray for some reason, even though every forum I've looked that hasn't mentioned it 🤷‍♂️. Also as a side note what recommendations do you guys have for 5N as well. Thanks! Edit: I just looked back at my unfinished Sullivans and think XF-50 is better for 5N: In that case I have no paint for deck blue now.
  18. I just had a quick question. My after market 20mm oerlikons look horribly out of scale compared to the kits 20mm guns but in their gun tubs I think they look fine. I honestly trust the after market guns more but wanted to see what you guys think. I haven’t cut out a kit gun yet but I’ll do that later to show they look in the gun tubs. Also regarding the USN camo policy, where smaller deck installations painting the color of the deck they were on or did their vertical surfaces get their normal color. I’m pretty sure vents like these: had their normal vertical colors and things like reels and bitts where just the color of the deck all over but want to make sure. Thanks
  19. Today was a bit more photoetch work mainly: the forward structure’s top most platform (that had the SK (I think?) radar) and a couple other SG? radars. Super glue was a pretty annoying part; the glue just didn’t stick the parts. the superstructure will look like this (albeit without its SK radar set): To Greg: I think that’ll be a pretty good idea and have already looked at a set that has not only the deck and masking but also PE replacements for the gun tubs around the deck. Along with that it’ll be pretty good practice for my next set (the Iowa) which I already bought a pretty detailed upgrade set. Thanks! To Steve: I think I actually happen to have some loctite glue at home, I didn’t use them before for some reason. I’ll probably take a look at them again but already bought zap a gap medium and thin glues and will probably be sticking to those. Apart from all of that I figured I’d start posting my work hours: 47 hours as of now! Good nite!
  20. The two wings are finally finished albeit I misread the instructions and so on me of the vents are permanently off the model: Anyways work on the funnel continued, with the photo etch “brace” for the platform being extremely fiddly. Thankfully it’s straight but I need to get rid of the excess glue: I’ll hopefully cram a lot more work in over the weekend as school is back next week. Cheers!
  21. A little bit of work today. Finally finished sanding down the massive gaps in the aft superstructure and am wrapping up work on the two little “wings” of the aft superstructure: I think I might start listing down sub assemblies to make to keep me organized with my work. Anyways happy thanksgivings to those celebrating
  22. Finally back at it, spent the week so far making sure there was no massive gap between the superstructure and the deck as well as some minor photoetch (the “wings” on the bow and stern end of the funnel and some ladder work). Seems I’ll need a bit more practice with etching.
  23. Does anyone have any suggestions for CA glue I asked earlier? Thanks!
  24. Unfortunately I’m going away for two weeks and will be returning with supplies for my other work in progress build and will be occupied with that when I come back. See you all later!
×
×
  • Create New...