Planking adhesives

[acrodave]

I'm having difficulty figuring out what adhesive to use for deck planking, and the second layer of hull planking.

 

In this forum, I have found many articles on various forms of CA, with much "what type to use". "how to use it", and "why NOT to use it"....  Same for most wood glues but......

 

When it comes to "Contact adhesives", all I can find is the generic term use "Contact adhesive". Even the kit instructions use this! 

 

There are a LOT of different types of "Contact adhesives", each with it's own application tricks.

 

Does anyone have some SPECIFIC recommendations as to what Contact adhesives to use, and how to use it for deck planking, or second layer hull planking?   I am concerned with such things as whether I need to finish the whole job in one session, or whether I can leave the contact adhesive on the deck "open" over the time,(in days), that it may take to do the deck.

 

I'm in the USA, so a brand, and source of supply here would be wonderful.

 

As an aeromodeller, I have used a LOT of CA, but the only contact adhesive I have used was for covering foam wings, and I can't figure out how that would work for planking a deck.

 

Actually, almost the same situation exists with the term "PVA glue".......

 

Perhaps someone could post up a "primer" (no pun intended) on the various glue types commonly used in ship modeling..

 

Help ???

 

Thanks

 

Dave

 

ps: I'm sure part of the problem may be differences in terminology, and availability from one part of the globe to another...

[DJPurney]

I have used Weldwood contact glue (available in hardware stores) to plank a solid hull model and a plank on bulkhead second layer. The first is now 25 years old and the second about 12. Nothing has shifted or come loose. I have also used Weldwood to glue on individual copper plates on two models and only two or three out of hundreds of plates have come off after 25 years. I have also used other brands of contact cement (that's what it is called on the jar) over the years for other applications and am convinced that the wood will break before the joint will fail. Elmers makes a contact cement that is water based. I have not tried this. The stuff I am talking about comes out of the jar as a yellowish syrup that is applied to both surfaces with a brush and allowed to sit for 10 minutes or so. Take care to align the parts correctly from the start. You will never get them apart later for a re-do. Clean up is with mineral spirits.

[DJPurney]

P.S. I apply glue to an area that I can plank with  5 strips or so as well as applying glue to the back of the planks. Working time is 20 minutes or so. This allows lots of time to get an area done and "painting" on glue for the next 5 planks takes only a few seconds. Perhaps you could buy a small jar or two and experiment until you find something you like and can develop your technique.

 

Keep the lid closed when not actually dipping the brush. The problem with this stuff is that the bottom 1/4 or so of the jar starts to gel and can't be used anymore. I buy small jars and they last quite a while.