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sumpter250
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Making Shackles my way…
sumpter250 replied to Thanasis's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Most of my current ship models are being built to 1:87 scale ( yeah, HO scale, 3.5mm= 1Foot ), to fill a harbor scene on a set of modules I take to local train shows. In that scale, the shackles pictured would measure 81/2" to 9" dia. I use a single strand of picture hanging wire, to make my shackles which measure about 1.5 mm, or, about 4". The thimbles I have got to try those, using the same wire !!!!! I use surgical suture for the standing rigging, and sewing thread for the running rigging. I work a very fine needle a short distance up from a loop, then, using a needle threader, pull the end of suture/thread into the eye of the needle and then pull the needle up and through the body of the line, forming a seized, or spliced eye. If I were working to a larger scale, I might actually try splicing instead. In the case of a block, or dead-eye going in the loop, it is inserted and the loop tightened around it. The loops are locked in place with a drop of "super glue". -
Coats and Clark Thread for rigging
sumpter250 replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I use the Coats and Clark all purpose thread, for the running rigging. For the standing rigging I choose to use Deknatel 3-0, and 4-0 surgical silk . My current project is a 1:87 scale tern, built as a waterline model, that will spend time in the harbor on my HO scale railroad modules. I redrew the 1/4" to the foot scale hull lines of the two mast schooner Mattie, as a 1:87 scale, 88 foot waterline length, three mast. I was able to keep Mattie's hull shape to true proportions by setting the conversion factor of my proportional divider, using one end to take the 1:48 measure, and have the other end be correct for the tern's larger hull, in 1:87 scale. at this point, I'm building all the ironwork, so I can get to the running rigging. Ever seen a 1:87 scale shackle and shackle pin? Lastly, seized, or spliced eyes in the rigging: I use a fine sewing needle, worked into a short length of the rigging material. The end of that, is threaded through the eye of the needle, and the pulled up through the thread to form the eye splice, or seizing. A drop of super glue to lock the eye in place and done. No Knots !, and looks great ! This is a 1:87 scale two mast schooner, at the seaport village and museum.
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My question has to do with the rigging of the gaff topsail, and main topmast staysail, on the pilot schooner Phantom. The instruction set does not clearly show, how the sails would be brailed up, or brought down. Where there are no ratlines, ( only a single main shroud indicated in the rigging plan), how would a crewman get up there to secure the gaff topsail ? or, with the luff of the sail attached to the topmast with mast hoops, how is the sail brought down to the deck? Or, are there multiple brails that are not indicated in the rigging plan? The same applies to the Main topmast staysail . The downhaul block is seized to the clew cringle, and that appears to be shackled to the main topmast stay ! It doesn't look like that will come down without someone going aloft to remove that shackle. The other bothersome thing is; the anchor. The instruction set shows the anchor on deck, with no chain or hawse attached. By the looks of the windlass, I would have to think that an anchor hawse was intended...and...there's no place on deck for an anchor chain to pass through. is it practice to disconnect the anchor hawse, and store it below?, leaving the anchor on deck? Oh, yeah I am new to this particular forum, and its layout, so please forgive me if I have posted this in the wrong place...I'm not all that far into the "learning curve" here.
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