MD11pilot

Like a few other Syren builders, I decided to delay the installation of the cap rail.  I'm not careful enough, and just know I would beat the heck out of the rail while planking the deck.
 
So, my next step will be the deck.
 
The laser cut margin plank didn't come close to matching the curve of my ship so I had to cut my own.  I placed the scarph joint one bulkhead farther aft than in the plans so that the "straight" piece wouldn't have to bend much.
 

 

 

Added the companionway framing….
 

Interior planking complete and painted…..
 

 

Preparing for the interior bulwark planking.  I couldn't stand the thought of thinning down the bulwarks with a sanding block, so I used my electric detail sander.  To keep the edge of the sander from chewing up the deck framing too much, i laid down a layer of duct tape.
 

 
Then the planking is laid in.  Since the interior planking is flush with ports, I elected to overlay the planking over the ports, then cut flush with the hobby knife and sand to match.
 

 

Cap rail and "fashion pieces" added.  Like most folks, it took a couple tries to get the cap rail right.  
 

 

I wanted to add beading to the moulding strips, as pictured in Chuck's instructions.  I tried to create the bead on the strips freehand, but just couldn't get a straight line.  My stylus would follow the grain and drift off the centerline ruining the piece.  So I made a very simple jig out of scrap material.
 
It's nothing more than a couple pieces of planking glued on top of plywood creating a channel just wide enough for the the moulding strip.  I predrilled a hole to tightly hold a T-pin just poking thru the center of the channel.  By pulling the strips thru this jig I was able to get a decent beading effect.
 

 
Adding the moulding to the transom...
 

 

Next I worked on the moulding strips for the transom.  I wanted to prebend the strips to ease the process of attaching them to the transom.  So I made a simple jig, using the plans to create the correct curve.
After soaking the strips, I attached them to the jig and let them dry.  

 
As you can see in the picture, even after drying completely, the strips did not hold the curve completely.  So if you use this technique for your ship, exaggerate the curve a little bit on your jig.  
 

The Interior of the transom is planked and painted.
 

The transom is thinned down to proper thickness.
 

 

I didn't want to be excessive with the treenaiing so I just used the bulkhead lines established with the butt joints.  
 

 

So a big milestone was just reached.  All the rigging is now in place!  
 
The last big item was the top yard.  First thing was to make the parrel that holds it to the top mast.  It has one end closed in an eye-splice, and the other end has a pair of eye-splices so that it can be lashed in place after wrapping it around the top mast, and the double rope between is served.

 
Here is the top yard all rigged up and ready to hang.  In addition to the parrel, there are a pair of blocks, the foot-ropes, a brace and lift on each end, and the halyard in the center.

 
This shows how the parrel holds the yard to the top mast, and the halyard supports the yard vertically.  Also a wider shot prior to rigging everything, with just the halyard holding it up.

 
Jump to the end, I rigged all the lifts (top yard and spreader yard which actually hangs from the two blocks on the top yard), braces, and the flying jib halyard and inhaul.

 
And what it looks like now.  All the rigging is still long at the bottom belaying points so that I can adjust things.

 
All the blocks and sheaves work.  All the parts are actually held in place by the rigging, and it's all functional, in that I can adjust the rigging however I want.  I can raise or lower the yards, and adjust the angle of the yards and boom (the Gaff is pinned in place due to the angle for mounting it, but if I cut the pin, it would also be adjustable).  If I had sails, the clew lines, in-hauls, and out-hauls would all function to raise and lower the sails.
 
All that's left now is to make the anchors and bouys and rig them to the catheads, clean up all the ropes on the deck after final adjustments, and then make rope coils for all the ropes at their belaying points.  
 
Oh, I also need to re-do a few of the swivel cannons before I mount them, and then do overall touch-ups as needed, and make the base for it to sit on.  Still a lot of work left to do, but damn it's great to see it looking pretty much done.

My first attempts at "joggling" or "nibbling".  Followed the instructions and it worked out OK.
 

 
The planking is all laid in, and you can see the results of the joggling fore….
 

 
And aft…..
 

 
To finish the deck, I scraped it with the blade from my hand plane and a utility knife blade.  After some sanding I finished the deck with pre-stain conditioner and a 50-50 mix of Minwax Natural and Golden Oak stain.

Great looking deck Eric.  The nibbing came out great.

My first attempts at "joggling" or "nibbling".  Followed the instructions and it worked out OK.
 

 
The planking is all laid in, and you can see the results of the joggling fore….
 

 
And aft…..
 

 
To finish the deck, I scraped it with the blade from my hand plane and a utility knife blade.  After some sanding I finished the deck with pre-stain conditioner and a 50-50 mix of Minwax Natural and Golden Oak stain.

At this point I have to give a special "Thank you" to Sal.  
 
Sal, your careful planning and thorough discussion of your deck plan made my job a lot easier.  I shamelessly "borrowed" a lot of your ideas and research.  I hope you will take it as a compliment.

Like a few other Syren builders, I decided to delay the installation of the cap rail.  I'm not careful enough, and just know I would beat the heck out of the rail while planking the deck.
 
So, my next step will be the deck.
 
The laser cut margin plank didn't come close to matching the curve of my ship so I had to cut my own.  I placed the scarph joint one bulkhead farther aft than in the plans so that the "straight" piece wouldn't have to bend much.
 

 

 

Added the companionway framing….
 

Interior planking complete and painted…..
 

 

Preparing for the interior bulwark planking.  I couldn't stand the thought of thinning down the bulwarks with a sanding block, so I used my electric detail sander.  To keep the edge of the sander from chewing up the deck framing too much, i laid down a layer of duct tape.
 

 
Then the planking is laid in.  Since the interior planking is flush with ports, I elected to overlay the planking over the ports, then cut flush with the hobby knife and sand to match.
 

 

Cap rail and "fashion pieces" added.  Like most folks, it took a couple tries to get the cap rail right.  
 

 

I wanted to add beading to the moulding strips, as pictured in Chuck's instructions.  I tried to create the bead on the strips freehand, but just couldn't get a straight line.  My stylus would follow the grain and drift off the centerline ruining the piece.  So I made a very simple jig out of scrap material.
 
It's nothing more than a couple pieces of planking glued on top of plywood creating a channel just wide enough for the the moulding strip.  I predrilled a hole to tightly hold a T-pin just poking thru the center of the channel.  By pulling the strips thru this jig I was able to get a decent beading effect.
 

 
Adding the moulding to the transom...
 

 

Next I worked on the moulding strips for the transom.  I wanted to prebend the strips to ease the process of attaching them to the transom.  So I made a simple jig, using the plans to create the correct curve.
After soaking the strips, I attached them to the jig and let them dry.  

 
As you can see in the picture, even after drying completely, the strips did not hold the curve completely.  So if you use this technique for your ship, exaggerate the curve a little bit on your jig.  
 

Really nice job Eric,  I like the effect of the nails through the color as yo mentioned - looks great!  I know this is your first kit - but wouldn't know it!!
 
I'm adding your syren to my follow list - I have one myself, sitting on the shelf and will stay there for now - partly because of other kits to get done first but mainly out of fear!!! =)
 
Great job - keep er going!!!

Interior planking complete and painted…..
 

 

Preparing for the interior bulwark planking.  I couldn't stand the thought of thinning down the bulwarks with a sanding block, so I used my electric detail sander.  To keep the edge of the sander from chewing up the deck framing too much, i laid down a layer of duct tape.
 

 
Then the planking is laid in.  Since the interior planking is flush with ports, I elected to overlay the planking over the ports, then cut flush with the hobby knife and sand to match.