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    Buckeye, AZ

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  1. Chris - I am curious if it would be possible to add one piece of information on the website (way too late for the boxes obviously) for all your models. Hull size. Every model lists 'overall' size, but it's really hard (at least for me) to get a real grasp on the size of a model by looking at the pictures and only knowing that it's 580mm 'overall' because of how much of that length is in the masting. I would love if manufacturers would start listing the hull length in addition to the overall length, it would really help people like me to visualize the true size of the bit that I w
  2. Good work on the chain plates. I really should have soldered mine, but I didn't and I can tell on close inspection. For blackening parts, I also used a chemical brass blackener from a company called "Jax". What I found worked best (learned from someone else on this forum) was to first.. etch and clean the brass thoroughly. First put the brass into a light acid (I think I just used distilled vinegar) where I used a paintbrush while immersed in the vinegar to make sure to remove anything. Then put the part into distilled water to kill the acid, where I hit it with anot
  3. Matus, The second line labeled 'buoy line' attaches to the anchor buoy which is attached to the end of the anchor which has the 'prongs'. An anchor when properly set is designed to dig into the bottom, and trying to pull it up from the top just sets it deeper. In order to retrieve an anchor you must first dislodge it from the bottom if it's dug in, and to do that they grab the line which is attached to the end of the anchor (the buoy line) by retrieving the buoy which will be floating above the anchor location. They winch up that buoy line to dislodge the anchor from the bottom,
  4. So... I'm not sure if you are as OCD as I am, so not sure if it bothers you, but I had one of my swivel-gun supports get in the way of the shroud laying cleanly just like your photo shows on yours. Now is the time to fix that if you want to, not later. It's honestly not that difficult of a repair if you can get it to separate cleanly, just a bit of paint/finish touch up after you get it off and moved slightly rearward to allow the shroud to lay clean. If it doesn't bug you, then don't bother! I'm just crazy OCD and I knew it would bug me forever if I didn't fix it. Lol...
  5. I have possibly the same exact box of shrink-wrap. I never even though of the oven though, I just use a small micro-torch, being careful not to direct the flame right at the tube and it will shrink up in seconds! You could also just use a soldering iron or even a heat gun or blow dryer to shrink them, but would have to be careful about hitting them with too much airflow and changing their position.
  6. Yeah, but I stole them from someone else! Haha.. I don't remember who, but I probably mentioned it in my build log if I actually remembered where I saw that method.
  7. Amazing how fast your development of new models has gone Chris, and I love the look of the kits you have produced so far, although I've not purchased any as I'm in a bit of an 'off' period in my model building and already have several started that I need to get back to and finish someday. It was touched on briefly recently about the thoughts of doing a more modern 'yacht' of some kind, and when that was mentioned the one that immediately popped into my mind was the beautiful SY Adix, a 3 masted schooner that you can actually charter right now! Not sure how anyone else feels, but I
  8. No reason you can't 'finish' them, but my suggestion is to finish them (and all the other ropes) in a way that allows you to adjust them later if you really decide you need to. All of my rigging was 'fixed' by using the actual methods of tying off to a cleat, and then soaking (using a paintbrush) the rope around the cleat with a 50/50 mixture of white glue and water. When it dries it's completely invisible and the entire mass of rope (including a coil if you have one) will be 'glued' in place, but if you ever need to adjust it, all you have to do is add some water and wait a few m
  9. Do yourself a huge favor and read through all of the rigging parts of the practicum entirely, at least a couple of times and then try to picture in your head how it will all go together, because I remember that he got sloppy (for lack of a better term) after the rigging started and some things were in an order that wouldn't work at all in practice, or would certainly make things a lot harder. Couple things I remember specifically is the mast construction where the metal bit that holds the topmast on gets placed too early and you are then unable to actually put the topmast in from the t
  10. I have their Indian Girl canoe kit, but have no idea how close that manual would be to the Peterboro canoe. I could scan and email that manual to you if you strike out with Midwest or any of the guys who built the actual correct kit.
  11. Life seems to take us in unexpected directions sometimes, and I've just been busy and distracted with other things. I've started three shipbuilding projects but none of them have progressed very far and all of them have been untouched for quite a while now. Starting to get the itch to get back in the workshop, but we'll just have to see how it goes! All the projects and the workshop are intact, it's more a matter of time and motivation! Take care.
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