victorpapa

Looks great Ed, I found attaching the rope coils to the belay pins difficult on my FA. My next model I will attach all the belayed lines before I start rigging and run the appropriate lines under the coils as I rig rather than trying to add those little coils after the ship is rigged. Nice job all around, thanks for the posts. Vince

Thank you to yvesvidal and victorpapa for your kind remarks.  I too benefited from the build logs and advice of other posters on this site.  I know for sure that my ship model is MUCH better as a result.  And I learned about cap squares, boomkins, and many other things nautical in the process.  I recently purchased my own copy of Harland's book "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" ($45 used online) with its wealth of information to draw from.  I strongly  recommend this book to anyone modeling ships from 1600 - 1860.  You can view portions online at Google Books"

 

http://books.google.com/books?id=g7Jd_o6_s90C&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=true

 

Progress update:  I rigged the braces and the anchors.  The only big thing left is the rope coils on the belaying pins.  I was successful in doing this on my MS "Rattlesnake" so I know I can do it...but my fumbling fingers don't seem to be making it happen this time.  I'm thinking of putting this on hold for the time being and jumping into either "Emma C. Berry" or "Benjamin W. Latham".  The weather is turning warm here in Virginia and it would be a good time to start working on a hull.

 

<<Gary>>

Thanks Gary,

I made up the rope coils on a long (4") rectangular block of scrap wood with wire studs spaced appropriately on the 'top' and 'side' edges, then used .008 thread wrapping around the studs 5-6 times and then tying a couple knots around the center of the loops. I waxed the wood before hand and treated the coils with thinned (acetone) Duco cement. Worked well after a few test configurations. Found the 'gathering knot' needed to be located toward one end of the coil to allow enough room to fit the coil over the cleats.

Also made up a serving device from two (1 inch) center drilled 1/4 inch dowels, drinking straw, sewing machine bobbin on a side mounted shaft wire eye and some tape that allowed me to wrap about 3/4 to 1 inch of line per minute with excellent control of the wrappings. Some time in the near future I will create a blog on MSW with photos of the rig.

Vince. 

Thank you to Gerty, Ken, David, PineTar, Greg, Nils, and Bob for your kind words.  And thank you to GuntherMT, Walter, Russ, JesseLee, PineTar, and Bob for your "likes".  Your support and encouragement is always appreciated.

 

I think we are almost always our harshest critics (sometimes the Admiral is harsher... ).  I think I even remember Bob fretting about his ratlines recently.  People on other posts have wondered about building the same ship model twice - once to learn it and then again to improve on the effort.   What would I do differently "next time"?  I would order higher quality wood strips for the planking, and use scraps from that to "kitbash" and construct my own deck furniture.  I would not paint the hull, but leave it natural wood.  Where painting is required, I would apply several THIN coats, perhaps using Winsor & Newton acrylics like Chuck Passaro does, instead of using the thick goopy Model Expo stuff.  And I would buy and use much finer sandpaper to sand between coats.  In building, I would be more willing to re-do something that did not come out quite right the first time, instead of accepting it as-is.  When rigging, I would purchase better quality and less stiff "rope", and also smaller and better blocks.  I would include the shroud cleats that I omitted this time because they became so difficult.  I might even try tying all of the clove hitches in the ratlines . 

 

But I have kits for BENJAMIN W. LATHAM and EMMA C. BERRY waiting to be build, so I will try to apply some of these resolutions when building them.  And then maybe I will think about another FAIR AMERICAN...

Gary,

Beautiful build, and thanks for the postings. My own FA effort was helped greatly by watching your and others progress. I'm at the standing rigging phase now and not all that excited about all those ratlines. Again thanks for your posts. 

Vince.

Gary,

 

You are sure doing a nice job on your ship.  I finally got to re-read the early log.  Considering the adjustments you had to make to get the kit to work, it is really wonderful.  I have been a fan of "Fair American" for some time.  I Have the plans from MS.  Sometime when I can get to it, I would like to convert the whole thing to a POF, and do it that way.  I would like to find out how it would look internally if I build everything in a frame.  I cannot believe the cabin would have all those control lines running through the cabin and over the floors all over.  In a rocking ship, it would have been a nightmare in that cabin getting around in the dark.  I hope to discover some clue doing it in frame as to the correct routing of all those lines.  Even though it has been tried many ways, there must have been some way that they made it usable.  

 

Walt Biles

I have seen depictions of rudder cables and tiller positioned in the ceiling

Bigcreekdad, thanks for dropping by.  And here is a progress report for everyone.  I thought it was time to mount the hull on its permanent display stand.  I found the lovely, dense piece of white oak at Black Dog Salvage in Roanoke, Virginia (seen on DIY TV as "salvage dawgs").  It was part of an old timber, and I like to think the tree that produced it was growing at the time that Fair American was sailing.  No stain - just a couple coats of tung oil and I am happy with the way that it looks.

 

Notice that there is a companionway at the quarterdeck now.  It is not glued in yet, but you get the idea.

 

I have started on the cannons.  I took those lovely 14 shiny brass cannon barrels and turned them gunmetal grey with a brass darkening solution.  I used the heavy brass wire supplied in the kit to make the trunnions.  I cut them to length, darkened them with the solution, and then glued them into the barrels with superglue.  (this sequence is important - if you glue them in before darkening them, the inevitable blob of glue will not darken and will stand out boldly)

 

I am using the technique demonstrated by Modeler12 in his video to make the eyebolts and rings for the gun carriage rigging. 

 

That's all for now.  <<Gary>>

Hi Gary, It is a little late to add suggestions, may help on your next build. I used picture frame wire for stropping on the blocks. I untwisted the wir and removed one strand that was somewhat twisted, the twisting was easily removed by stretching the wire. The wire was very soft and easily worked on the small blocks. I may also use a few strands of that wire for foot ropes. Your build looks great, thanks for the posts as your,Rafine and Kens posts have helped make my attempt better than it would have been without.

Hi Ken - Thank you for posting this.  I am approaching this stage in my Fair American build, and will also need to deal with it one way or the other.  One alternative that I used on my Rattlesnake build was to strop the blocks with black thread and simply tie them to the eyebolts, because I was having the same problems with 28 gauge wire.  I'll probably get "dissed" for even suggesting this, but it doesn't look bad and preserves one's sanity.  As we said earlier, it depends on who you are building the model for...

 

One other thought.  Take a look at the sketch of the gun carriage rigging on page 21 of the instructions.  Seems to me that the outhaul tackle eyebolts are attached to the bulwarks on a wider spacing from the gunports than the breech line eyebolts.  It looks like you have both eyebolts close to the edge of the gunport.  For the model, a wider separation of the outhaul tackle eyebolts would provide more spacing between the blocks on each side of the carriage and might approve the appearance.  You have only done the two guns, so this would be an easy modification.  Maybe others can comment on this.

 

You are doing great work and I certainly appreciate your sharing it on this build log.  Keep it coming!

 

<<Gary>>

Hi Gary,

I am at the stage of installing cannons. I used blackened picture frame wire for stropping the blocks. The wire is very soft, I used only one strand at a time, stretched it smooth and blackened. Worked well on the 3/32 blocks.

Ken, 

Ditto: fantastic work,

Thanks Dave and Vince and the 'likes'.

The clips came from Radio Shack and are called, 'Micro 1-1/8" Smooth Clips'.  I got them on line since my local store didn't have them in stock.

Cheers.

Thanks Ken,

I used Elmer's white glue (thinned) to paint on the edges of the sail cloth for the Bounty's launch. I cut the cloth over sized and painted the glue around the edges then double folded to hide the frayed edge and sowed on a machine. After finished I washed the sail to remove glue and re-stretch to smooth.

Also created seams within the sail by same process gluing and folding strips of cloth to create <1/8 inch false seams that were sown to the sail. FA is smaller scale so that process may not be applicable, and the launch sails were deployed slightly less than full size. Also used flat lacquer to spray on the sail that was taped over a 1 gallon jug to form its curved shape.

I finished my first furled sail.  I started with the main top gallant yard, since it seemed to be the easiest.  I will, however, install the completed yards in the order used in the Syren documentation.  I used Amati sail cloth. 

After doing some research, I followed the procedure that ‘flyer’ describes in this HMS Pegasus build log (entry # 307, 310, 315 and 316).  I feel I didn’t need the Stop Fraying product since Aleene’s Tacky Glue, which I used to glue the hems, prevented fraying.  Also, since Peterseen’s book and the Syren documentation didn’t show buntlines on the top gallant yards, I left them off.

The completed top gallant sail:

a2014_09_27_01a.jpg

And the sail bound and furled on the yard:

a2014_09_27_02a.jpg

Looks great Ken. I like the clips you used to stabilize the yard,where did you purchase them? I am still working on cannons so still a long way from rigging. Your and others posts are a real help, thanks.

Vince.

Hi all -

Walt, I think I have restored the missing photos.  Stuntflyer, thanks for dropping by and for your kind words.  I would encourage you to start a build log for your project.  You will get lots of helpful advice and encouragement.  And you should also check out the build logs from KenW and Rafine.  Both are excellent.  They use better quality wood with natural finish and their results look great. 

 

Its probably time for a progress report, although there has not been much progress.  I have been dealing with a carpal tunnel kind of wrist problem that limits what I can do.  In addition, I used a very old bottle of  Floquil "Swedish Oil" to varnish the masts... and it has taken WEEKS to dry.  I have attached some pictures.  The masts are stepped but not glued in.  They are not completed yet.  I need to do some painting and hang some blocks under the main top as well as other places.  The deck furniture is not glued on either.  I just placed it to give myself an idea of how she's looking.  The skylight is a "prototype" and will be replaced with something better in final.  I think the quartrdeck looks naked without it.  The stern lantern is just stuck on for now.  You get the idea.  But that's the progress to date.

<<Gary>>

Looks great! You were smart not to glaze the rear windows, I did, and now the inside glazing is covered with dust. Both you and Ken are an inspiration, and like the old research days ,it is a gift to benefit from the sharing of helpful information. 

Thanks for the post Gary,

I'm just adding channels and other wood to the bulwarks, and will be considering dead eyes soon.

I like the twisted wire, looks good.

Just ordered another F.A. to build sometime .I learned from all my mistakes and maybe will build a second and trick out the captians quarters and holds. I see miniture lights and all kinds of bells and whistles are available.

Thanks for the help.

Vince

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

 

Continuing with the lower hull planking, key points include:

 

>>> 1st broad and garboard strakes fitted (see previous pictures)

>>> 3 strakes fitted below wales aft port

>>> Aft curved planks were cut from sheet stock

>>> Aft planks required heavy soaking where bending up to counter

 

Since completing the above construction, I have been engaged in Vancouver Shipbuilding's start up of their newly updated shipyard in North Vancouver, BC Canada.  I am working as the Mgr. Production Engineering with responsibility for shipbuilding plans, hull block and outfit module arrangements, design for production guidance, and assembly planning for 17 ships (6 different designs) under Canada's Non-Combat Federal Fleet Renewal Program.

 

My "Fair American" circa 1780 model is currently in storage awaiting my return to the model shipyard.

 

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Beautiful build,

I used a technique learned as a kid working in a body shop; to fair the hull planking I sprayed a shadow coat ( very light coat) of flat black on the rough sanded planking, then made up various sized sanding blocks, different roughness, the low spots stay blackened making it easier to fair to smooth.

Thanks Victor.  I still am undecided on having a woolding only on the fore mast.  You're right in that it probably wasn't needed.  I like the look of them though. 

Still thinking.

Thanks Ken,

I also like the look of them and will add them to my build.

Hi Vince - Thanks for visiting the build log and for your kind words.  I honestly don't have any information about a flint lock firing mechanism ( perhaps others looking over my shoulder might?) but it seems to me that at this scale it would be difficult to include.  On the other hand, I have seen where others (Rafine, for example) can do wonders with tiny bits of detail.  Heck, I was happy that I was able to do the outhaul tackle and cap squares.  It all depends on your skill level.

 

On another subject, I recently acquired a 48 inch fluorescent shop light to go over my work space.  That has made a HUGE difference for me.  So now I am working on masts, and will (hopefully) have something to show pretty soon.  Another helpful addition was a shop-vac with a suction hose to take away the wood chips and sawdust.

 

<<Gary>>

Thanks Gary,

Read somewhere about woodlings and bamds used to strengthen masts that were made up with multiple sections of wood.

Before 1800 trees with 30 inch diameters ere available and the spars were usually one piece. The F.A. masts look to be around 1 foot (seems small) and would probibly would not require woodlings or bands. (although they do look pretty cool)

Yes,yes, one cannot have too much light at the work space.

Cap Squares!!!  Thanks to Alistair for suggesting them and to everyone for your helpful hints on how best to do them. 

And a special thanks to Russ for taking the time to tell me what a cap square is.

 

<<Gary>>

Gary,

I read  that some cannon of this era were fitted with a flint lock type of fireing mechanism. I am at the point of working on cannon and wondered if this would be something worth duplicating. Being new at this process I am following your and Kens build closely, much appreciated.

Vince.

I have been studying the plans that came with the kit and I believe that the gaff is attached to the mainmast with parrels.  Therefore I believe that it was lowered and the gaff-rigged mainsail was not brailed.  So I guess I will have wooldings on the foremast, but not on the mainmast. 

Also, the plans do not show a boom rest on the mainmast, just an eye bolt for a hook at the end of the boom.  (Even though the kit comes with a dye cast boom rest.)  So I will leave the boom rest off.

Please, comments are welcome.

Your posts on woodlings got me thinking. I wondered if woodlings served the same purpose as bands on built up masts to strengthen the assemblys on larger ships with masts that were too large in diameter to be constructed from one pole. Looks like the F.A. masts are approx. 1 foot in diameter and could be made from a single tree, there by negating the need for strengthing the spar.

Thanks for sharing your build.

Super post,superior craftsmanship,beautiful model.

What was to be a nightmare of rigging; has become clear and something to look forward to because of your photos.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks to both Gary and KenW for the helpful suggestions.

Hi Ken,

Yes your cannons do look great, along with the rest of your build, I am humbled - and inspired.

I am wondering if there is a good way to blacken the brass cannons. I was unable to find spent photographic fixer and have tried copper sulfate/baking soda dip and house hold ammonia vapor on scrap brass with less than acceptable results. Before I spend $$ on commercial solutions, or try to experiment with an old quarter and various acids I thought I'd ask.

Thanks to you and the other members for your informative posts. 

Hello victorpapa -

You are exactly correct.  Remember that the kit is attempting to copy a MODEL of the ship.  Various buildlogs on this site show different ways to address the lack of space between the cannon and the "quarter deck face".  I moved the "face" to the aft end of bulkhead 12, and moved the gunport forward.  You might check KenW's and rafine's buildlogs to see exactly what they did.  And I see that you are new to the forum.  You might consider starting your own buildlog.  There are many benefits to having other modelers with skill and experience looking over your shoulder.

 

<<Gary>>

Thanks Gary,

I have found your posts to be very helpful, and they have enhanced the enjoyment of my build.

I wondered about the location of the quarter deck face. The doors are blocked by the aft most cannons. The fix might be to move the cannon forward or move the quarter deck face aft to in between bulkheads 12 and 13.

Any comments?