KenW
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Coming along great, Bob. A pleasure to watch. Cheers -
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Work on the Providence continues at a slow pace. I’m on a bit of a vacation to get out of Brooklyn and the heat. I finally finished the doors to the officer’s quarters. I know that there isn’t much room between the wall or partition and the two aft guns, but the partition would be stored below the water line when the order to clear for action is given.
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KenW reacted to a post in a topic:
New England Stonington Dragger by FriedClams - 1: 48 POB - A 1920s Western-Rig
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KenW reacted to a post in a topic:
La Belle Poule 1765 by MTaylor - Scale 1:64 - POB- French Frigate from ANCRE plans
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KenW reacted to a post in a topic:
Hannah by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Scratch Built, Plank-on-Frame, Admiralty Style
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KenW reacted to a post in a topic:
New England Stonington Dragger by FriedClams - 1: 48 POB - A 1920s Western-Rig
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KenW reacted to a post in a topic:
New England Stonington Dragger by FriedClams - 1: 48 POB - A 1920s Western-Rig
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It’s been awhile since my last post, but I have been working on the Providence. I’ve finished planking the main deck, done some sanding and added a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The blue tape is to protect the bulwarks from the sanding dust. I intend to sand some more and add the partition to the officer’s quarters before I do another coat. It has been a very hot summer, so far.
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Congrats on a superb model. I can only echo what many others have said. Cheers.
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KenW reacted to a post in a topic:
New England Stonington Dragger by FriedClams - 1: 48 POB - A 1920s Western-Rig
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KenW reacted to a post in a topic:
Hannah by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Scratch Built, Plank-on-Frame, Admiralty Style
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OK. After removing the old planks and patching up the false deck, I’ve made new tick strips and started planking the deck. I have a piece of string set up from the knightshead to the stern to act as a chalk line. And the new planks have a straight line up the center of the deck. So now planking can continue.
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After an almost sleepless night, I decided to remove ALL the deck planks and start over. So I used water and lifted the planks from the false deck. Since I’m pretty impatient, I used too much water which caused the center of the swiss pear false deck to warp. I cut out about an inch of warped wood and cut a piece to replace it. The deck is now cleared for action and I’m ready to try again. You can see the old deck planks on the right which will find a place in my trash bin. The hatches are able to be re-used. I need to do more sanding and create new tick strips.
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I began planking the deck. I’m using basswood since that’s all I have. I notice that my center line is way off, even though I didn’t see that during the planking process. I’ll have to see if I can determine the cause. Making a model from scratch requires a lot of precision which I haven’t got (yet). I’m using the method described in Chuck Passaro’s Cheerful log with tapered planks and hooked scarf joints. This means I have to make tick strips. Chuck even pencils in each plank and plans for the location of each scarf joint. So I have work to do before I lay down any more planks. I’m not comfortable with my ability to make proper nibbs into the waterway.
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The bulwarks are planked and painted red. I’m now getting ready to plank the deck. I’ll use the same method as was used by Chuck Passaro on his Cheerful model. I will have to make more tick strips.
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Chuck: I enjoyed your blog and its historical information. I'll enjoy watching your continued build. Cheers.
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That green paper copy of the main deck has been removed. Two knightheads were made to match a photo I have of the replica. I added spirketting in walnut. I used walnut because I need to preserve my stash of boxwood and holly. I’ll plank the entire bulwarks in walnut which will be painted red. Then I placed (no glue) the deck furniture and my two test guns as well as a sailor that is supposed to be in the right scale. The windlass is a ‘bastardized’ kit from Syren’s Cheerful model. It had to be made much smaller. The hatch gratings are also made from a Syren kit.
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You workmanship is still the best. Can't wait until we can have club meetings to see models live again. Cheers.
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Thanks Joe. I used boxwood for above the wales and holly below. The wales are basswood sanded and painted. I have to preserve my boxwood and holly. Cheers.
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Rattlesnake by KenW - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - American Privateer
KenW replied to KenW's topic in 1751 - 1800
Thanks Alan. -
I sanded down inside of the bulkheads and cut the ends so the hull looks more like a boat. I made a cradle for the boat, although I need to get a wider piece of wood for the base when my arts store is able to open. I decided to have a “false” deck. To do that, I first zeroxed my deck plan and I glued it to two 1/16 inch sheets of wood. I sanded the two pieces down so they fit the deck pretty good. I want to remove the green paper, but I need to map out where everything will be placed before I glue the “false deck” to the bulkheads. I’ve also got to get the warp out of the wood and get the bend so it sits down without pressure. Then I’ll plank the bulwarks and paint them red.
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Hull planking is complete. I added a molding to cover some problems where the hull planks meet the counter. I used a plain molding since the Providence was a converted merchant boat without much decoration. Next, I’m going to add another plank above the wales to ensure the cap rail will pass over the bowsprint.
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