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KenW

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About KenW

  • Birthday 05/16/1945

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brooklyn, NY

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  1. Thanks Mark for the ideas. I still have the main spanker to do. Also thanks to Dave for the encouragement. Cheers.
  2. After a long period of attention to my group build, I’ve returned to the Independence. Since the last post I’ve tenuously added, without glueing, the lower fore shrouds. But my main focus has been on the fore lower sail which is a gaff sail. I want the sail to be brailed and look proper. When I attended the meeting of the Northeast Clubs at New London, Connecticut, I acquired a collection of designs of ships published in 1882 in Paris. One of the plates shows a ship very much like the Independence with brailed sails. I want my model to look like that ship. But I couldn’t get either cloth or silkspan to behave. I came up with the idea to make the sail in two parts. The first part is what is furled up to the gaff; and the second part is what is furled to the mast. Some photos: The piece that is furled to the mast I done first. Then the diagonal part is furled to the gaff, with some effort to merge to two pieces together. (Not a good explanation, but it’s the best I can do.) The last photo shows the sail brailed exactly as shown in the 1882 plate. (I’m not able to get a decent copy of the plate to include here.)
  3. Thanks Rusty and come on down. And I always listen to Chuck.
  4. I began to work on the inside of the boat. The first thing was to apply Wipe-On Poly. Then the floor boards and platforms. No real problems. Just to boring task of doing simulated nails. And after all that you can hardly see them in the photos.
  5. I think you've done a fantastic job! This model is massive. Keep at it. Cheers.
  6. For this model I’ve decided to make the sails out of Silkspan. My club recently had a tech session on making sails from Silkspan, so I’ll be using the method put forth by our former president, Tom Ruggiero. The sail is made from the thinnest pieces of Silkspan. Three pieces of Silkspan are cut to shape; the middle has the cloth joins drawn in pencil. The lamination is done with white glue diluted at a ratio of 1 to 7, or even 1 to 10. One of the outside pieces is cut larger so it can be folded over lines that will surround the sail and include the loops or cringles. My sails will be furled, so I don’t need to add reefs, etc. I bend the sail to the yard using line to simulate robands and earings. Then a wet brush is used to pull up the clue and form the sail into a proper looking furl. Again, line simulates the gaskets. I also added foot ropes or horses. I made the fore topsail first since I think it’d be better to start with a square sail. Then I will move on to the fore gaff.
  7. I’ve finished the third chapter of the Medway Longboat instructions. I drilled all the holes for the ‘nails’ and stuffed the holes with the monofilament. I must say that I should have simulated the nails in each plank as they were installed. It’s much easier to drill the holes INTO the frames. I can see several pieces of filament sticking through the inside of the boat. But after I cut them off and put in the floorboards, I’m sure they won’t be seen. I glued the freezes and the molding that I scraped into shape. I used a scraper that I got from Artesania Latina. The web site I used is: https://www.artesanialatina.net/en/162-micro-tools-for-modeling The model number of the scraper is 27300.
  8. I sanded down the cap rail to Chuck’s specifications. No problems; just a lot of elbow grease and time. I used 220 and 320 grit sandpaper. I added the inboard sheer strake and sanded it down so the sheer top meets the cap rail. I also added the knee and sanded to insure that the seam is perfectly smooth. I finished it all off with 400 grit to get it even more smooth. And then I painted the rail red. A little sand paper removed any red paint that ended up where it wasn’t supposed to be. Overall, it looks pretty good.
  9. Thanks Russ. And there is a saddle there; I guess it can't be seen in the photo. Cheers.
  10. I made the lower fore mast and the fore mast boom and gaff. Nothing has been glued yet. The fore cross trees have also been made, and I still have to decide what blocks should be attached to it and where they should go. The cross trees have had their dead eyes attached. The fore mast has some cleats that I’m sure I’ll need. I need to make the cross jack yard since that must also go onto the fore mast before the cross trees are glued. In the first photo you can see the fore topmast which has also been made. The loose threads (lines) are for a block that is part of the peak halliard rigging. I want to be able to adjust these lines so insure they look good. The other blocks are for the brails.
  11. Hey Rusty - Your workmanship is excellent! It was great to meet you and see your work in person today. Hope you got home safe and stop by often. Cheers.

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