davec

I started another project, the Model Shipways Grand Banks Dory.  There are many build logs with kit pictures, so I won’t include here.  I’m planning on replacing all the basswood anyways.
 
I usually have two projects (wooden ship and plastic airplane) going, but for a bunch of reasons, thought I should try doing two ship models at the same time.
 
Rationale:
·         I got a really good deal on it at a club auction
·         I’ve wanted to try one of David Antscherl’s kits
·         I think I have my jointer and bandsaw finally tuned right, and wanted to try milling some wood
·         I’ve found working with laser cut pieces on the longboat a little frustrating.  I’m sure I will get better at it with some more practice, but wanted to get a sense of the comparison between cutting the parts out myself vs cleaning char off laser cut pieces.
·         I want to build with boxwood and some contrasting wood, and wanted to see how well patterns made from scanned laser cut sheets would work.  This was particularly important on this model as the plans in the instruction book don’t include all the parts.
·         Main reason: I’m planning on starting a fully framed Echo, but want another project going so I don’t try working on Echo when tired or distracted.  This seemed a good opportunity to pilot building two ship models at the same time.  If it isn’t going to work for two fairly simple kits (longboat and Dory), I shouldn’t try it with Echo.
 
So far, so good.  I started with the stand as a test for the jointer and bandsaw.  The wood is a piece of pao ferro that I had on my shelf.  Very happy with both tools. The bandsaw got knocked out of alignment during the house move a few years ago, and is finally dialed back in.  The jointer was never fully adjusted and is finally working the way it should.
 
Scanning the basswood laser cut sheets has also worked well.  The burn marks are thin enough and in the right place to get good patterns.  For the first few pieces (hull bottom, stem, transom, stern knee) cutting the parts out has been very straightforward and taken less time than cleaning char.  For some parts like the longboat frames this would not be true. 
 
I’ve also been making some progress on the other two projects and will update the logs soon.

Detailing is on-going. Fitting in the stiffener between the frames is well underway. Also, the mizzen mast base is in place (upper right). Have mounted the starboard half of the gunwale, but this was premature and made fitting in the stiffeners more difficult. Recommend waiting until the stiffeners are finished. The gunwale is laser cut/pre-shaped and in four pieces. That will be the next step. Inside the thwarts and the support battens (unsure of the name) also need to be fitted.

The base for the mizzen mast was not in the kit, but easy to make. This is shown in the build video, but not in the build plans. As this is the only support for the mizzen mast, it would be hard to do without it. Still think that when used some sort of stay would have been used, even for a mast only a couple of meters high. Have to think about how to rig that.

Painting the blue on the outside hull.

That is a significant improvement on the bow. If you are painting, you could use a little filler on the bow to fill the small gaps.
 
Painting looks great. I paint as much as possible as I go along because I tend to get it everywhere no matter how careful I'm trying to be 

This is the bow when sanded. From the side it doesn't look too bad (it will be painted ...), but I'm not so sure about the front view.
 
Let me know what you think!

Inside the painting went well. A flat brush really meant for drybrushing had the stiffness and control I wanted, and a thin brush was used for small touch-ups where I was not precise enough.

Sometimes, when one investigates enough - one finds. The French did sometimes rig their Dorys as the model plan is made - although one sail is missing in the kit. The rig was up to the owner, and a variety of rigs were used.

Deviated from the build direction, as I separated the hull from the jig after the 2nd plank and not after the 3rd.
The reason for this is simply that I found there was no room for clamping the plank - not enough opening left.
Now I have to take more care in the alignment of the plank, no help from the jig, but clamping is so much easier that (I hope) this counteracts that.

2nd plank is now mounted on both sides. A small misalignment had to be corrected - and such things make for a good learning experience - which is why I started with this relatively small dory build.

A little look at my small "shipyard". The three lights above give good building light, and everything is at hand.

The kit has a very basic approach to making the oars. Just a square half-cut and glue. This does not look the least realistic, and I decided to try to improve this. First I tapered the blade to a shallow angle. Used sand paper and tried to make the angles the same. Then I tried to fell inn the shaft and the oar blade to look a lot more like a real oar would. Not unhappy with this as a first attempt, though like most things it could surely be improved.

The next step is planking. Doing them one at a time with time between for the wood glue to dry. Am using Titebond II, a glue I also use for carpentry. Happy with it. Have measured the plank intervals and marked that on the frame. The twist makes it not quite possible to meet the marks, at least I didn't quite. However, as long as it is equal on both sides - that is not noticeable I think.

The alignment was not too bad, happy with it as a first build. 🙂

Now both lower planks are glued on. Tried to check for good alignment, and looked ok. So, I'll see when dry...

Tried to steam to form first, but ended up boiling. Here attached to form and dry.

The bottom planking is being glued on.

Can you ever have enough clips? 😄

Frames are done, and bottom is fitted.

Frames being fitted to the jig. Jigs were actually used to build the real dorys.

Overview of parts

I started another project, the Model Shipways Grand Banks Dory.  There are many build logs with kit pictures, so I won’t include here.  I’m planning on replacing all the basswood anyways.
 
I usually have two projects (wooden ship and plastic airplane) going, but for a bunch of reasons, thought I should try doing two ship models at the same time.
 
Rationale:
·         I got a really good deal on it at a club auction
·         I’ve wanted to try one of David Antscherl’s kits
·         I think I have my jointer and bandsaw finally tuned right, and wanted to try milling some wood
·         I’ve found working with laser cut pieces on the longboat a little frustrating.  I’m sure I will get better at it with some more practice, but wanted to get a sense of the comparison between cutting the parts out myself vs cleaning char off laser cut pieces.
·         I want to build with boxwood and some contrasting wood, and wanted to see how well patterns made from scanned laser cut sheets would work.  This was particularly important on this model as the plans in the instruction book don’t include all the parts.
·         Main reason: I’m planning on starting a fully framed Echo, but want another project going so I don’t try working on Echo when tired or distracted.  This seemed a good opportunity to pilot building two ship models at the same time.  If it isn’t going to work for two fairly simple kits (longboat and Dory), I shouldn’t try it with Echo.
 
So far, so good.  I started with the stand as a test for the jointer and bandsaw.  The wood is a piece of pao ferro that I had on my shelf.  Very happy with both tools. The bandsaw got knocked out of alignment during the house move a few years ago, and is finally dialed back in.  The jointer was never fully adjusted and is finally working the way it should.
 
Scanning the basswood laser cut sheets has also worked well.  The burn marks are thin enough and in the right place to get good patterns.  For the first few pieces (hull bottom, stem, transom, stern knee) cutting the parts out has been very straightforward and taken less time than cleaning char.  For some parts like the longboat frames this would not be true. 
 
I’ve also been making some progress on the other two projects and will update the logs soon.

I started another project, the Model Shipways Grand Banks Dory.  There are many build logs with kit pictures, so I won’t include here.  I’m planning on replacing all the basswood anyways.
 
I usually have two projects (wooden ship and plastic airplane) going, but for a bunch of reasons, thought I should try doing two ship models at the same time.
 
Rationale:
·         I got a really good deal on it at a club auction
·         I’ve wanted to try one of David Antscherl’s kits
·         I think I have my jointer and bandsaw finally tuned right, and wanted to try milling some wood
·         I’ve found working with laser cut pieces on the longboat a little frustrating.  I’m sure I will get better at it with some more practice, but wanted to get a sense of the comparison between cutting the parts out myself vs cleaning char off laser cut pieces.
·         I want to build with boxwood and some contrasting wood, and wanted to see how well patterns made from scanned laser cut sheets would work.  This was particularly important on this model as the plans in the instruction book don’t include all the parts.
·         Main reason: I’m planning on starting a fully framed Echo, but want another project going so I don’t try working on Echo when tired or distracted.  This seemed a good opportunity to pilot building two ship models at the same time.  If it isn’t going to work for two fairly simple kits (longboat and Dory), I shouldn’t try it with Echo.
 
So far, so good.  I started with the stand as a test for the jointer and bandsaw.  The wood is a piece of pao ferro that I had on my shelf.  Very happy with both tools. The bandsaw got knocked out of alignment during the house move a few years ago, and is finally dialed back in.  The jointer was never fully adjusted and is finally working the way it should.
 
Scanning the basswood laser cut sheets has also worked well.  The burn marks are thin enough and in the right place to get good patterns.  For the first few pieces (hull bottom, stem, transom, stern knee) cutting the parts out has been very straightforward and taken less time than cleaning char.  For some parts like the longboat frames this would not be true. 
 
I’ve also been making some progress on the other two projects and will update the logs soon.

Foremast yards ready to be rigged to the foremast.
 
I am waiting on some dowel and cord for the main mast yards.

 

 

Following along.
 
Your decision to use different wood illustrates that even a simple "beginner's kit' can provide challenges and avenues for the more experienced modeler. 
 
I look forward to this build.  You've got a good start and a nice plan for the project.