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    Richmond, VA
  • Interests
    Scratch built plank on frame

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  1. I spent the last two weeks having adventures in bending wood. I’ll briefly summarize here. When I downloaded pictures, I realized I had only taken a few. The model has 5 different trim strips that go around tight curves at the stern and cockpit combing. I’ve bent wood for hull planking before, but never around curves this tight. Up until now I’ve used soaking and a bending iron, which worked adequately, but I was afraid might not work well for the tight bends. I’d heard good things about using a heat gun, so gave it a try. Other than at the stern, the bending was only in o
  2. Hi Michael - I almost bought one of those. How does it work with really fine dust? Most of my hard to control dust is from thickness sanding, where the dust is really fine and ends up clogging the filter on the shop vac I use with the sander. I was worried that if I got the Festool vacuum I would end up having to add the $300 festool dust separator. I ended up getting a cyclone dust devil, which takes care of dust extraction, but is really inconvenient because I have to move the shop vac and cyclone from machine to machine. Are you having to clean the Festool filter frequently? If it wor
  3. Sorry about your accident. I used to use my 10" table saw to slice billets, but got scared away prior to having an accident. I got a 10" bandsaw with a resaw blade. Still pretty frightening, but relatively speaking, feels way safer than the table saw. Between that big exposed table saw blade raised way up, potential kickback, and trying to rip two foot lengths of fairly narrow boxwood and pear which involved push sticks close to the blade, just felt dangerous. Much easier to rip short pieces with the bandsaw, and the kerf is narrower, so less waste. Only time I cut myself bad enough for
  4. Michael - looking forward to seeing Cheerful develop, but I'm a little disappointed. Was hoping there might be another Echo cross section in the works. I've added the deck beams and ripped and sanded the scale 4" (1/16"x1/4" actual) deck planks. I got a 6" wahuda jointer, and this was the first trial. Took a few nights to get it dialed in, but it made cutting the planks a lot easier. In the past I haven't had an easy way to get a completely flat side on the billet prior to thickness sanding. With the jointer I was able to have two completely flat, perpendicular sides to my bil
  5. Moab and Michael - thanks!! Michael - did you decide what you are starting now that the Queen Anne Barge is complete? I installed all the pieces I have been making over the last month or so. The centerboard and housing, stem, thwarts, and removable flooring are now in place. I’m still not doing as well with metal blackening as I’d like, but I’ll be displaying the centerboard retracted, so none of the problem areas are visible. I’ve also made the deck beams, and hope to post pictures of the beams and bowsprit bitts installed shortly.
  6. I put a coat of wipe-on poly on the inner surfaces that won’t be glue joints. I also sanded out the curved stern. I left way too much excess on the bottom planking overhang. It took a while to sand flush. I didn’t include pictures, but I’ve also put finish on the removable flooring, thwarts, and centerboard housing. Project for the weekend is the metal work for the centerboard. Once that is done, I can install all the innards and start working on the deck. The two wooden strips along the centerboard housing are the shoes. They are on the plans and mentioned as one of the components
  7. I just noticed how long it had been since I had updated the log. The basement work got finished in a few weeks- my wife would be an excellent contractor and got the floor people in the day the asbestos people finished. I got side tracked by finishing a Wingnut Wings Ninak that had been on the bench for months, then built the new Tamiya 1/48 Spitfire Mark I to try to fix some of my airbrush skill deficiencies. I kept picking away at the Sharpie a few minutes at a time a few times a week, which eventually turned into some progress. I finished the centerboard and centerboard housing and thwar
  8. Gilmer wood sells ebony as small pieces of lumber and instrument sizes (https://www.gilmerwood.com/search/results?utf8=✓&q=ebony). I've never seen anyone sell as milled strip wood. It is very expensive, but model ships don't require very much. Dyed holly and boxwood look tremendous, but not exactly the same as ebony. I've used it on wales, deadeyes, spars, deck furniture, and trim. The dust is a pain, but can be managed with a mask and good vacuum. It is harder to work with than other woods, but mostly just needs power tools and really sharp hand tools. The biggest challe
  9. You seem to have some extra pieces or a different model than I have. Mine is definitely a Preac.
  10. Hi Jim - The house is a 1914 row house. We bought it 2 years ago and did a down to the studs remodel including replacing all the knob and tube wiring. The basement floor was one of the things we put off when we decided we'd gone far enough down the slippery slope, and it was time to stop. The asbestos got missed (or maybe ignored) by multiple inspectors and contractors. Both are things we genuinely regret not taking care of when the house was empty and crawling with contractors.
  11. John - thanks! My build is on hold for about a month. We found some asbestos in the basement that needed removal. Needed to clear everything out of the whole basement (first floor of the house is a nightmare with everything moved upstairs). In the interest of never having to do this again, we are having the 60 year old peeling floor tile removed from the rest of the basement and the floor painted. Asbestos is done, and the tiles are up and concrete getting patched. Hoping the paint goes down this week so we can move all the stuff downstairs and set the workshop back up soon.
  12. Looks like we were posting at the same time Congratulations on your son completing his Eagle project - that is a huge accomplishment! My son was an Eagle Scout, too. Dave
  13. I can't speak to Triton, but Echo was a great project. The framing seemed to cover all the different frame types that I will need to make for the full ship model I hope to build someday. My build took eons because I did two house moves and have a job a lot like yours, not because there was anything overly difficult about the model. David and Greg were incredibly helpful, and there seems to be a lot more reference material (TFFSM in particular) for Echo than Triton. Echo is just different enough from Swan class that it felt like there was adequate reference material, but not quite straight
  14. Small update. I've built the rudder log and lower stern framing, mast step, and removable floor boards. Nothing has finish on it yet. Not sure where they grey tinge in the wood in the pictures is coming from.
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