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    Richmond, VA
  • Interests
    Scratch built plank on frame

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  1. Gilmer wood sells ebony as small pieces of lumber and instrument sizes (https://www.gilmerwood.com/search/results?utf8=✓&q=ebony). I've never seen anyone sell as milled strip wood. It is very expensive, but model ships don't require very much. Dyed holly and boxwood look tremendous, but not exactly the same as ebony. I've used it on wales, deadeyes, spars, deck furniture, and trim. The dust is a pain, but can be managed with a mask and good vacuum. It is harder to work with than other woods, but mostly just needs power tools and really sharp hand tools. The biggest challe
  2. You seem to have some extra pieces or a different model than I have. Mine is definitely a Preac.
  3. Hi Jim - The house is a 1914 row house. We bought it 2 years ago and did a down to the studs remodel including replacing all the knob and tube wiring. The basement floor was one of the things we put off when we decided we'd gone far enough down the slippery slope, and it was time to stop. The asbestos got missed (or maybe ignored) by multiple inspectors and contractors. Both are things we genuinely regret not taking care of when the house was empty and crawling with contractors.
  4. John - thanks! My build is on hold for about a month. We found some asbestos in the basement that needed removal. Needed to clear everything out of the whole basement (first floor of the house is a nightmare with everything moved upstairs). In the interest of never having to do this again, we are having the 60 year old peeling floor tile removed from the rest of the basement and the floor painted. Asbestos is done, and the tiles are up and concrete getting patched. Hoping the paint goes down this week so we can move all the stuff downstairs and set the workshop back up soon.
  5. Looks like we were posting at the same time Congratulations on your son completing his Eagle project - that is a huge accomplishment! My son was an Eagle Scout, too. Dave
  6. I can't speak to Triton, but Echo was a great project. The framing seemed to cover all the different frame types that I will need to make for the full ship model I hope to build someday. My build took eons because I did two house moves and have a job a lot like yours, not because there was anything overly difficult about the model. David and Greg were incredibly helpful, and there seems to be a lot more reference material (TFFSM in particular) for Echo than Triton. Echo is just different enough from Swan class that it felt like there was adequate reference material, but not quite straight
  7. Small update. I've built the rudder log and lower stern framing, mast step, and removable floor boards. Nothing has finish on it yet. Not sure where they grey tinge in the wood in the pictures is coming from.
  8. Jim - many thanks. I'm looking forward to building the stern. I have a plan for how to do it, that will be a little more straightforward than the monograph. I plan on building the frame first, then doing the vertical planking as opposed to the monograph, which planks first (unsupported), then fits the framing. I mostly need to figure out the shape of the upper framing along the shear. Need to figure out whether I can draw the projection from the top view of the plans using turbo cad, or whether I should free hand it with Bristol board templates until I have something that fits. Turbo cad
  9. Planks soaked yesterday, and clamped in place overnight. The glue joints tolerated the soaking without separating, and the planks bent mostly into shape so that only a little pressure was necessary with the clamps for gluing. After soaking, the fit against the molds was also good - the side planking lies flat against them, and I don't have the sense they will bend inward when I take the hull off the molds. I glued everything up this morning. Fingers crossed for when I take the clamps off tonight.
  10. Michael - not sure how I missed your update. Your paint and carving look great!! Dave
  11. Finished the side planks. As they are flat, decided I would glue them together off the model. I thought I could clamp them better and minimize the gap between planks. That part worked OK. The joints look a little irregular in the pictures. I took them right after sanding. After I used some mineral spirits to wipe away the sawdust in the joint, they looked better. I put my right angle blocks on top to keep them flat while they dried. I had used a damp cloth to wipe away the extra glue. When I put the metal blocks on top, I got some discoloration of the wood, probably from some oxidati
  12. rare woods usa sells real boxwood (buxus species). Castello Boxwood is awesome wood for ship modeling, but is a different species despite the name. For ordering in the US, I'm still really happy with Gilmer Wood in Oregon, which regularly stocks Castello. There is a fair amount listed on their site https://www.gilmerwood.com/categories/38-boards-and-blanks/products?utf8=✓&filter=Boxwood&category= They seem to have more than just what they list on the website, and are really helpful if you call them and tell them what you are looking for. They only sell as billets, but their wood
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