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Old Coasty

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About Old Coasty

  • Birthday 05/05/1934

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Gig Harbor, WA
  • Interests
    Ship Models, Carpentry, Computers, Reading
  1. Old Coasty
    The finish does not appear to have flaked off, rather worn off. Some appears to have been touched up, but not very evenly New Questions. Is there a way to tell if the model has varnish or shellac? Can you varnish over shellac? If I need to, what is the best way to remove the old varnish/shellac?
  2. Old Coasty
    It's getting scary, I'm starting to answer my own questions. After getting some of the deck really clean, I can see the splotchy is really where the varnish is missing in a lot of places. Same applies to masts and yards. So on to more deep cleaning (saliva and also water with a little dish liquid). My plan, open to suggestions if I'm headed in the wrong direction, is to finish cleaning all wood, and fittings. Clean the Hull. It is white paint, red Boot Topping and Green underwater Hull. Use a pre stain on new wood, and then stain to match current spars. Then varnish all previously varnished wood. Then rerig what rigging that is messed up. My new questions are: What should I use to clean the white, green and red paint on the hull? The green and red are reasonably clean, the White is the question. I going to try the non-sudsy dye free Ammonia cleaner first. Is there any other option if that doesn't work? Approximately 90% of the running rigging is fine. The rest I can replace with similar but not the same color line. If it is too obvious, should I replace all of it, or leave it be showing it is a restoration. The standing rigging being Black, replacement will not be obvious so I will only replace what is busted. Once again Thanks for watching and helping. Bob
  3. Old Coasty
    Frankie, The pictures of the restored bow you sent. Did you take one after cleaning and before the MSA Varnish? I'm trying to equate what I'm getting while cleaning to what you have shown. As I say, it looks clean, even and dull while damp before drying. That makes me want to believe it would be even after varnishing. You said the MSA brings out the colors, but what did the bare cleaned deck look like. Maybe I should get some MSA Varnish and try it. If it is easily removed, that would answer that question without getting to a point of no return, and getting too deeply into Chemical Disaster. Incidentally, I tried the saliva Q-tip routine on the other two models, and they clean great. This one is the worst of the 3 here, one in storage is the newest, and not two messed up. The other one I can't remember what condition it is in. Anyone else have any suggestions? Thanks, Bob
  4. Old Coasty
    Jaager, Sorry about misspelling you name. Small type on the laptop. Bob
  5. Old Coasty
    Janger, I was reading (a lot) about cleaning etc, and the apparently enzymes are what makes the silava work so well on paintings.
  6. Old Coasty
    figuerres, That makes sense to me now. It was a little confusing before. I intend to try to match as close as possible the replacement spar colors to the original.
  7.    Krelis reacted to a post in a topic: Ship Model Restoration
  8. Old Coasty
    One good thing is the metal is fuzz free. All fittings were made by hand out of tin lead watch gears etc. No off the shelf parts other than the anchors. I have tried water with a little dish liquid in it, and it cleans like saliva, looks great while damp, then dries splotchy. No indication of white spots when it got wet with the water. Oh well, it's almost 2330 here in Washington state, so it's tomorrow for some of you. Thanks for the help, Bob
  9. Old Coasty
    I've tried the Q-tip and have a nice clean area, however, when it dries the splotchy streaky look returns. That Hatch in the seventh photo is a good example, it looks like it hasn't been cleaned, but saliva and Q-tip bring up no more dirt. Will the Goldens MSA Varnish make it look as it does when still damp from cleaning? Possibly it is lost varnish from aging on the deck and Hatch were I am trying it. If so probably something like the MSA would be the next step. Or should I try something like the Webber Cleaning Solution for Paintings? Webber then recommends their Salamander Restorative to renew color brilliance of Oil or Alkyd paintings. Would the MSA be OK instead? Mix and match of brands might be a problem. I'm in foreign territory here, so please excuse my belaboring everything before I mess it up.
  10. Old Coasty
    JerseyCity Frankie, What did you clean it with? I assume the before photo is before cleaning? The rail looks black in the before, but white paint in the after. The results are great. Thanks.
  11.    JerseyCity Frankie reacted to a post in a topic: Ship Model Restoration
  12. Old Coasty
    JerseyCity Frankie, What do you think about the restorers varnish on the decks etc? I don't want to go into it and come out looking like the schooner. BTW, My Grandfather built from experience. He was third mate on a full rigged ship from Mystic CT to Honolulu HI, around Cape Horn. Also worked at the Shipyard in Noank Ct. during its heyday as the largest wooden shipbuilding on the East Coast run by his Uncle. Schooner is of actual vessel built there. Was a Xmas present to my cousin's Father 1930.
  13. Old Coasty
    Where did the schooner photo go? Here it is again.
  14. Old Coasty
    Here are some photos. The first is a schooner my not so bright cousin had rerigged with new blocks deadeyes etc. Then painted like brand new. Not the way my Grandfather built it. Look at the rest and see what I mean. This is exactly what I don't want todo with the rest. The first and forth photos are the Ship and Bark that will come down the road with the other 2 in storage. I can't get the photos in the order I would like them. The middle photos are what I'm starting on. I chose this one because it is bigger, and has more room for blunt fingers to find there way in there. You can see what I mean about splotchy decks, etc.Any suggestions will be thankfully received.
  15. Old Coasty
    Will get some pictures as soon as possible.
  16. Old Coasty
    Hi everyone, I'm a newcomer having found you in a restoration search. I have 5 old ship models made before 1938 by my Grandfather. They need much help and I am trying to make them presentable, but retaining they original look. Rigging is no problem, as I have found replacement supplies that nearly match the original. Masts and yards are the problem. Replacements have been made, but how do I stain the new masts to match the old? Dyes or Stains? The decks, fittings and spars are all splotchy. Can I cover them with a flat or satin finish? They look reasonable when wet with water. Help!!!

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