alfetta

I worked on this a bit today, and it seems to me the rigid divider approach was incorrect..I instead determined the bulkhead width at the deck, the height of the bulkhead relative to the keel both at the keel and the deck, then drew lines that I saw as fair..I will cut some 1/16 ply wood and see how this goes..

New to this hobby having come from the the world of HO trains and resin craftsman kits. I chose to build a Bluejacket Friendship sloop and have completed the hull. I read the build logs of this boat after completing the hull and I have to agree with the problems that were described. I did not follow the instructions when it came to planking, instead I ran a stiff wire from the deck to the gar board on each frame, measured the wire and made a table of the required widths. The worked well for determining plank shapes. As to the narrow deck at the stern, I simply cut additional width from the laser skeleton pieces glued it in place then shaped the deck. However I was not really aware of the flat spot/fairing problems caused by the distance between the frames, until it was too late. The model as a result is painted.

I am soon going to begin a Bluejacket Cape Cod Cat boat, and reading the build logs here, I see the same problems exist with this kit. My approach will be to build intermediate frames or bulkheads and hopefully get a fairer hull. My question to anyone is, if I were to build 2 intermediate frames between the kit bulkheads, would it be possible to determine the lines of the frames by comparing the kit frames and dividing the distance (across the beam) between the two by 3 then at particular heights using dividers establish the intermediate frame lines..