TK1
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Squaring Mini Drillpress to Work?
TK1 replied to Jay 1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi, One way I check my drill press is square is by bending a piece of wire or paperclip into a "Z" shape (but approximately 90 degree bends). Then with the drill press set up, insert one end into the collet and tighten. You should have one end held in the jaws, a length coming out at approximately right angles to the centreline of the collet, and the other end pointing down to the table. Bend wire down so the tip is touching the table at some point Then rotate the collet/drill by hand, and check the other end of the wire (pointing at the table) contacts the table all the way through a 360 degree rotation. If it does, then you're square. if not, adjust the angle of the drill so it does touch all the way around. Remove wire and insert drill bit without upsetting the drill alignment, and you have it aligned at 90 degrees to the table. Hope the above makes sense...if the wire touches all the way around, the cetral point of the wire (in the collet) will be at 90 degrees to the table. Regards, Darren -
Hi Matthew, Don't burn it (well, not all of it!). As a few others said, it's good stuff (although it does burn exceptionally well, and worth a try with the salmon). Looks like the same as I have, salvaged from a 1980's pergoloa. it was used in outdoor construction in Australia a lot in the 70's and 80's but eventually subject to rot so a lot is being replaced at the moment. Grain is coarse but could be used for an 'arty' model or larger scale boat if done well, otherwise fine for a painted model (the First Fleet models in the Museum of Sydney are all predominantly cedar, mostly Surian Cedar (Australian Cedar) with some WRC and other types). The prominent grain and lighter wood makes it look like Japanese Cedar but original pics looks like some 'red' pieces also? If you're in Melbourne I'm happy to have a look at it for you. Good for general woodworking, pens, guitars and other stuff (a little short for a canoe or kayak though ). I'm sure you'll find a use for it, even if not in a ship model. A nice base, turned pedestals, a new workbench, etc?? Or sell it to woodworkers and buy that kit you want Let us know what you end up doing with it, you've got a great pile of lumber there that any woodworker would be jealous of! Regards, Darren
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Hi, I use the method mentioned by 42Rocker - do a search on the "scary sharp" method. This involves using wet and dry sandpaper up to very fine grit cemented to glass or other flat surfaces. Some woodworkers go for 'floating glass' for a perfectly smooth surface, I use 5mm panes, thick MDF pieces or polished granite benchtop offcuts. Depending on how blunt the edge is, I start at 500 or 800 grit and progress through 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and then finer when I can get it (up to 5000) - check auto supply stores or websites for finest grades. A honing guide can be used for consistent edge, but you'll get the hang of it with practice I sharpen chisels, plane blades and kitchen knives this way, then do a final stropping on the palm of my hand. End result is a mirror finish on the cutting edge that will shave wood with little pressure. To test if it's sharp I shave some arm hairs - I've managed to get a close shave with a #4 or 5 handplane blade or mortice chisel. Cheaper than buying expensive sharpening systems and gives a great result. Regards, Darren
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Hi, Thanks Jim. Good to be back. I may have posted this on the old forum as I put it together when the workshop was supposed to be pulled down so I could keep building. But I stopped anyway. So now this will let me start building again until I get properly set up. Regards, Darren
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Hi, I'm getting back into ship modelling after an enforced break. One of my first projects before I get too serious is to build a workshop. Just waiting for a renovation to finish, then will show off the new shed. Until then I'm confined to the dining table, and whilst I'm just starting a 1/350 Titanic, a wooden ship won't be far behind. Anyway, I did manage to fit my main hand tools into a box that was used for 2 bottles of wine (one of those presentation boxes they sometimes come in). So, a few small 'drawers' later, here's what I ended up with. Add a cutting mat and I'm set to build...(see attached pics). Whilst it proves you don't need a full workshop to do this, I certainly won't complain when I have one again Regards, Darren
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