MangoFox

Cheers Dave, I have been reading through your log, I'm a bout halfway through it at the moment. Its a great log of the process from start to end with a fantastic result. Particularly inspired by your to scale deck pattern, that brought a tonne of life to the model. I'm sure I'll end up firing off a few questions in your direction. Cheers, Mango.

Hi Knocklouder, Sparky is indeed an electrician. I'm a shocking sparky though, don't know watt I'm doing, ha! I have checked out Dave_E's build log. Its a long one, so only half way through. Definitely a good log of the process with a great result for a first build. Cheers, Mango.

Cheers Kev, Much appreciate the advice. In regards to determining how my faring for the bulkheads is going, I'm relatively happy with the ribs, still a bit concerned about the deadwood though. I saw the guy on the Modellers Shipyard video using a thin piece of brass, best thing I could find to mimic that was a steel zip tie. Its flat, pliable, roughly the dimension of a plank (4.6mm) and reusable. Highly recommend. The challenge here (mainly due to lack of experience) has been making sure I'm laying the steel-tie bow to stern where a plank is actually going to sit(especially through the centre of the hull. It might sit flush but if I'm holding the tie to the bow a bit higher and the stern a bit lower then where a real plank will lay, I am probably going to end up out of whack when there are planks on it. Please do follow and don't be afraid to burst my bubble if you see a mistake or area I can improve. MangoFox.

Hi all, I recently bought the HMS Lady Nelson kit from Amati/Victory models. I'm a sparky by trade so haven't done much woodwork, especially precise delicate work. Basically everything is a learning curve for me at the moment. I started a build log to ask questions and track my progress. I'd really apricate any comments of advice, links/directions to other useful threads/logs, things to watch out for, anything you think I might be able to learn from, wish you had known or would be valuable information for me. Searching my username is probably the best way to find the log. I'm currently considering buying an airbrushing kit for painting. I don't know a great deal about airbrushing (and I'm not exactly the best painter) so advice in this area would also be very valuable. I would also like to hear from some members about what some good second models to consider in the future might be. Cheers, MangoFox.

Thank you for the welcome/reply Paul, I will find post in the new members sections soon. Great advice on creating a template and pinning to the false keel. In the future I'll make sure to try that from the beginning. I ended up making a template (but out of paper which was a bit 'meh', not sure why I didn't think to make it out of wood before reading your comment), then I went ahead with my "slow and careful" sanding strategy, along with making an even number of passes on each side. I'm overall pretty happy with the result, everything seems much more symmetrical now. I have a little bit left to do before cutting out the prow/keel/rudder post but before that gets glued, ill clip it all in place, pull out some planks and see how flush they're going to sit overall, as that might be the last opportunity for any easily accessible sanding in the area. Cheers, Mango.

Hi all, This is my first build and wanted a touch of help, to document my progress and keep a record of my issues so I can avoid them in future builds. I'm coming up on the tail end of the faring process and just trying to get these deadwood areas fared down to the right angle/dimensions. Below, Fig. A is what I assume is the correct faring angle judging by the documents/videos I've read and watched, which say to bring the deadwood down to "about half width". Fig. B and Fig. D is roughly what my model currently looks like (slightly exaggerated in drawings). Notice in Fig. D where I drew that arrow, a slip of the tool while faring the port side termination pattern caused me to create a bit of a depression into the keel. In Fig. C I assume the correct tapering angle between the 3mm section and the (eventual) 1.5mm section would ideally be the same as the straight lines I drew in Fig A, just along the sides of the keel. As you can see in Fig D. I've already taken off material that will complicate that a bit. So questions currently; 1) How do people go about making sure they fare down these deadwood sections evenly on each side. 2) When you already have some wonky angles like I do, how do you continue to work the area to end up even (like I drew in Fig A.), in all the various directions. Without continuing to remove materials from the sections that are probably sitting pretty close to where they should be. (Currently the plan is just slow and careful sanding. I don't think I've taken them down so far that I would need to glue strips and sand down again). The MSY tutorials say to focus on one side at a time (which is great for the bulkhead faring) but I found that to be somewhat misleading advice for the deadwood. If I was to do this again from the start I would make about 5 passes with the file, then swap to the other side for 5 passes then repeat, to keep things nice and even. Below photo of Fig B. Below photo of Fig. D (note the slight depression right at the end of the keel on the port side) MSY mentioned this area near the bow also had some deadwood that needed to be fared. I used the technique of an equal number of passes on each side to keep it symmetrical and found that to work pretty well. Does this need to taper down to about half width as well? I haven't done this before so I find myself wondering if I'm being a bit to pedantic or over thinking. I'm pretty confident I can work through all this without much help but any criticism/advice on the above would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Mango.