Jump to content

Tsm209

Members
  • Posts

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I’ll post as much progress pics/details of the hull as I can. The bottom plating is relatively simple, from about midway on the ship to the double riveted plate strakes is where all the detailing comes on the hull.
  2. Finished up the hull. It's now ready for the hull plating stage of the build. I hope to mark the plates out on the hull in the upcoming month.
  3. The filler and smoothing process is going nicely. When it's done I'll probably post some more pics here. I still need to make the outboard propeller wings and then I can start marking out the hull for the hull plating. That should be fun.
  4. Finally finished up the stern. It‘s very rough, but I think that some filler will do the job and smooth it out.
  5. The photos do help when tackling these tricky shapes. I'll have to make it up as I go along, following the frames to give me a guide of the shape.
  6. The bow has been filled, although some slight gaps to be still filled so that it is completely smooth. Now remains the tricky shape of the stern.
  7. Yes it is quite big, almost 9 feet.
  8. I’ve started to fill the hull in with filler.
  9. Hello, I have been working on a scratch-built 1/100 Titanic for quite some time now and I have decided to share it on here. I am actively working on the ship to get the hull frames filled in and to start the hull plating. Here is the keel of the ship cut out into 2 pieces. Forward and aft parts of the ship with the frames glued. Aft section of the ship, partially filled. Here is the ship with both pieces together to create a massive hull. Slowly but surely, getting the frames filled.
  10. Scratch-building. Fun! Fun! Fun! Great job on the scratch built rudder.
  11. Very nice on the small details. Just be aware, the zinc anodes on the rudder are different than originally thought. Here is a drawing. (Drawing courtesy of Robert Read)
  12. I like using pollyfilla for the more larger gaps, spreads easily, dries hard, and is easy to sand, it's also paintable. It gives a smooth wall-like surface. Though for wood models, wood filler is the way to go.
  13. Just looked up, I think a scroll saw is best for the project I am on right now. Asking someone else to cut it would probably mean that they will only cut straight, not the intricate shape of the keel and frames.
  14. I just need to cut out the hull frames and keel, I already have it drawn on the wood. Budget is modest
  15. Where is the best place to get the keel and frames of a ship cut, if not what is the best tools that one can use to cut wood by themselves?
×
×
  • Create New...