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Ikcdab

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Everything posted by Ikcdab

  1. Hi Keith, thanks and thats very helpful. Pritt it is then, i use a lot of it on the railway in building construction. I have received several replies and each is against balsa and none support it. Although it is the material used by the designer, he is far more experienced than me and so can probably cope with the problems you mention. So i should take that advice and choose an alternative. Bearing in mind that the hull will be sheathed in two layers of fibreglass cloth, is there any reason why i cannot use 3mm ply for the planks? I can easily cut these from ply sheet, so i can get the exact width required for a whole number of planks?
  2. Hi Roger thanks for that and I appreciate your comments. As a beginner to boat building, I am open to all advice. The model was designed by someone who i believe to be reputable. I had the same thoughts about balsa planking, but I was reassured by the fact that the planking is sheathed on the inside by a single layer of 200gsm chopped strand mat cut to fit between the frames then on the outside first a layer of 185gsm cloth, then a layer of 85gsm cloth followed by a coat of straight resin as a sanding filler. It seems to me that this should give a strong and light hull. Clearly this is a decision i need to make soon and I would welcome further comments. Ian
  3. Hi all, well this is my first post for my first ever scratchbuild for my first boat. The plan is to build a 1:24 model of the steamtug Wattle. I have just received three sheets of plans and there is a comprehensive article in the winter 2013 Model Boats special edition, so I am ready to go. My background is that I am a lifetime railway modeller (https://www.rmweb.co.uk/forums/topic/157222-charlton-bridge-4mm-brs/#comment-4078299) and i have scratchbuilt much of that. So although this is my first boat build, I am fairly confident about what I am doing. I am based in Somerset, UK. The article suggests 3mm ply for the frames overlaid with 3mm balsa planks that are then sheathed with fibreglass sheet. i have a 3d printer and i think that i should be able to 3d print various fittings etc - eg the rudder looks ideal for 3d printing as do portholes and deck fittings. My first step is to copy the drawings, print out the frame plans, stick them to the ply so that they can be cut out. I need to get over to the local model shop to buy ply and basswood (for the keel). Then I need to source some 3mm balsa so that i can cut planks. So my first basic question is about sticking the printouts to the ply. Its got to be stuck down well enough so that the frames can be shaped, but i guess loose enough so that the paper can be removed afterwards...and soaking in water to release glue doesnt seem a good idea! Whats the best approach for this? All other comments are welcome! Ian
  4. I'm not sure that two-ply will work well. There is no balance of forces. That is the reason that all commercial ply has an odd number of layers, so that the warping forces are balanced out. And to make ply you need a suitably flat surface to make it on if you are to avoid warped material. Ply in the amounts that we use is pretty cheap and it's worth using the best for the foundation of your boat.
  5. So I do have a question. The plan is to build the boat plank on bulkheads with 3mm ply bulkheads planked with 3mm thick balsa planks. Then to cover it in fibreglass sheet. I have sourced some balsa sheets that I can cut into planks. But I am being asked if I want soft, medium or hard balsa. Instinctively I feel I should go for hard. Is that the right choice? Ian
  6. Hi all, I am a lifetime railway modeller and have built many railway kits and lots of scratchbuilt. Years ago I built a Clyde puffer and I have built full-size sailing dinghies. Now I hanker to build another model boat. My choice is the steamtug Wattle 1:24. Scratchbuilt, it scales out at 1100mm long. Although the plans say it is for the experienced builder, having done so much railway modelling and general woodwork, I am confident I can do this. So far, all I have done is to order the plans and clear a spot on the workshop! all comments gratefully received. Ian C
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