Okay kids. Chapter 2 of the build is complete. As per previous, I'll put in the pics and hopefully comment on what I learned so anyone coming along doesn't repeat my mistakes or you all can leave comments on improvements as I've haven't started Chapter 3 yet.
So, I got a wee bit of a shock during the individual sanding of the ribs before they were put on the for base form. Note in the pic just how deep the laser cutting went.
Which then led to the wood delaminating during the sanding process. Thankfully these were nice clean breaks, and I was able to glue the pieces back on.
Once I got the initial sanding down to almost the laser lines on some of the ribs, as per the instructions, I used a sample from my granite countertop to square the ribs with the form board and two smaller clamps. Those granite countertop guys know how to cut 90-degree angles. For the ribs that were closer together, I used a piece of scrap aluminum which was machined to a 90 degree. I also put a little extra glue in the corners to add some strength to each rib.
Once those were good and set, I added the spacers between the ribbing. The instructions say and show using much larger blocks of wood between them. I didn't have easy access to such large light weight blocks, so I used 1/2 X 1/2 square wood and cut to size. I again added extra glue to the corners to reinforce these spacers. My sanding of the blocks wasn't perfect but for the most part I was close enough. And for the larger blocks that I really messed up, I simply set them aside and cut them down for the narrow gaps for the ribs at the bow and stern. Didn't want to waste wood. Also note in the pic that I put in the mast holes and created 5/8 diameter boxes for the masts to sit in. Got that idea by reviewing other WIP threads here. The front foremast is straight up and down but the mainmast has a 5-degree angle back, according to the drawings. I used a small coping saw and files to cut out the formboard.
Next came the fairing of the ribs using a planking strip. I like to use these big salon emery boards that I get at Target. As you can see, they are long enough to cover up to three different ribs. By sanding back and forth it can simulate a planking board. But only to a point. They don't work well up by the bow where the curvature is much more extreme. But for about 75 % of the fairing, they work well. They also work well on the ribs when sanding along the rib length down to the beard line.
And finally, the fairing completed. I did end up having to put in Shims on two different ribs. It takes a fine eye and patience to get this fairing correct. So don't rush and take frequent breaks. It's easy to tire your eyes and get anxious when doing this.
Finally, was the second to last step in the chapter, putting in the lower deck. I used a thin piece of wood cut to shape first, then put the deck planks on. Remember that you can't cut the wood to the exact size of the open space. You have to be able to fit it in after the ribs are permanently done. I found it safe to go about halfway into the ribs for distance. That way you can angle it in, push the wood down and then glue it with the ends about 1/2 way over both ribs. When I glued the planks on, the wood underneath did start to bow up on the ends a bit. To remedy that I used a few of my scrap metal weights over the top to flatten it. I had thought about painting the ribs on either side black but haven't settled on that idea yet. To simulate the tar-soaked rope that was often squeezed between the planks, I use a black fine point sharpy, not extra fine or bulky, on both sides of the wood. Also note that the instructions say to use Minwax Golden Oak to give the wood a nice yellow warm finish. I call BS on that one. I had the stain, and my wood was much darker than the pics in the book. Now I'm not losing my mind over this because it doesn't look too bad, and it will barely be seen once the ladder is put in. But I don't think I want to be using that darker stain if I'm trying to keep a nice warm feel to the wood along the bulwarks on the outside of the hull or the main deck itself. Unless someone reviewing this thinks otherwise. I used a natural stain on my Niagara deck, which came out nice, but the Niagara was built out of unaged pine. So, the pine-like look seemed more historically accurate. I did go out and purchase a lighter stain. Couldn't find Minwax at my local Home Depot. Used to be able to. I wonder if Varathane bought out Minwax. Any of you know? Anyways, I think I'll repeat the lower deck step, stain with both cans and put it up on the sides so see which would work better if tree nails and the black paint that I believe is used on the hull.
Sorry for some of the blurred pics. I didn't notice it until I enlarged these pics for posting. Perhaps I'll stick with smaller pics for the next chapter. Anyways, let me know what you think and if you have any staining suggestions. TTYL.
