MORE HANDBOOKS ARE ON THEIR WAY! We will let you know when they get here.
×
LJC
-
Posts
9 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by LJC
-
After drying, I glued the cabin/coaming and cut pieces to make seat braces and glue them. I had overlaps or gaps where the two cabin pieces came together in the front and back, so I added a vertical spacer to fill the gaps. Next up is the cabin roof. After trimming to fit, it’s glued in place. I next cut pieces to form the hatch frame and glue those in place. I have now realized that before I go much further on the build, I’m gonna need to paint or stain parts of the model while I still have access. I’m not ready for this as I haven’t decided on any color scheme so I’m gonna need to pause the build to make these decisions.
-
Getting ready to shape the cabin/coaming and decided to cut PVC block to the desired shape. This allowed me to soak and clamp the cabin/coaming on the PVC as it would’ve been difficult to clamp it to the model. I don’t know if I should be attempting to bend pieces after soaking and gluing them as I go. So I have been soaking, shaping and clamping & letting the piece dry and then going back and doing final tweaks to the shape and gluing.
-
I’ll try to be better at updating the build log After trimming and shaping the side planks, I’ve installed the bow blocks and trimed them to fit. I’m going to need some filler in several areas.
-
Based on comments from other build logs, I spent a couple of hours adjusting the edges of the deck and frames so that the hull planking would lay smoothly over the framework. I chose to soak the side planks in water and then using the curves in my oval sink basin, I shaped the planks. By running the planks over the long and short curves in the basin, I was able to shape the planks so that they closely fit the frame and the keel. I then clamped the wet planks to the frame and Keel to dry.
-
The assembly of the cross frames to the keel was straightforward, except… The notches on frame, F1, F2, and F3 are cut at an angle to install the batten from bow to stern. If any of the frames are installed backward, the angle is not right for installing the batten and new notches will have to be cut. Not a big deal but next time I’ll mark certain parts as front and back.
-
Growing up in Tidewater Va, I wanted to build something similar to what I saw on the waters of Hampton Roads and the Chesapeake Bay. After reviewing numerous build logs, I chose the lobster smack because of the many logs with photos and helpful hints on this build. To keep this build separate from any other woodworking projects, I set up space in a spare room. After reviewing the build instructions multiple times, I opened the kit and trimmed & sanded pieces for the initial build.
-
Palmerit, thanks for the posts. I did see her YouTube build and plan on referring to it especially when I’m out of ideas. As for tags, I’m still learning how to use all the features of the log.
-
I’m new to model ship building and have been inspired by my brother‘s work. I’m a retired nuclear engineer, but have done woodworking as a hobby all my life. Since retiring, I am working part time building new houses as well as renovations. I have chosen the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack as my first model build and to track in Model Ship World. I have spent about 14 hours on the build so far, but I’m just getting around to starting the log.
Our Emblem ®
