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LJC

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Everything posted by LJC

  1. LJC
    I’ve now finished the lobster smack and I’m pleased with my first build. Overall, my build time on this model was about 45 hours. I’m looking to order my next model and hopefully will do a better job of posting my build log as I go. Thanks to the many members who posted hints that help my build. Here are a couple of pictures of the final product.
  2. LJC
    I tried several schemes to create coils for the jib line with little success. A search on model ship world got me to a jig that a member named Redshadowrider posted in message 326 on November 29, 2024. This worked well. Thanks.
  3. LJC
    I cut out the sails and used Fray Check on the edges. Fray Check is a product that one uses on needle point projects to keep the edge of the material from fraying. This worked very well on the sail material. I used a spray spar varnish on the sail material which seemed to work well. From here it was rigging the main sail to the boom and installing the mass hoops. Next was rigged the main sail to the mast and setting the mask. I completed rigging the jib along with final touchups to the model.
  4. LJC
    While cutting the mast slots and the bow block earlier in the building, I cut the slots too wide and all the way through the bow block. My repairs limited the mast insertion, resulting in a loose fit. I decided to craft a ring that would provide better support of the mask by gluing the ring to the deck. I decided to try to make wooden mast hoops instead of using the metal wire provided. I used a 1/2” dowel and board a 1/4 inch hole using a forester bit to create the hoops. The small pieces were hard to hold so I inserted a quarter inch dowel into the hole and then cut the hoops. The dowel provided for more support and stability during the cut.
  5. LJC
  6. LJC
    So I’ve decided on paint scheme for the smack and have restarted the build. Have established the waterline sanded the gaff, bowsprit, and boom, and installed blocks. I’ve crafted the tiller and installed the tow rail and moldings on the deck. I spent time shaping the 1/32” molding which was not necessary as there was no problem bending these to shape. I’ve completed assembly of the cleats, seats, hatch door, centerboard rod, and oarlocks.
  7. LJC
    After drying, I glued the cabin/coaming and cut pieces to make seat braces and glue them. I had overlaps or gaps where the two cabin pieces came together in the front and back, so I added a vertical spacer to fill the gaps. Next up is the cabin roof. After trimming to fit, it’s glued in place. I next cut pieces to form the hatch frame and glue those in place. I have now realized that before I go much further on the build, I’m gonna need to paint or stain parts of the model while I still have access. I’m not ready for this as I haven’t decided on any color scheme so I’m gonna need to pause the build to make these decisions.
  8. LJC
    Getting ready to shape the cabin/coaming and decided to cut PVC block to the desired shape. This allowed me to soak and clamp the cabin/coaming on the PVC as it would’ve been difficult to clamp it to the model. I don’t know if I should be attempting to bend pieces after soaking and gluing them as I go. So I have been soaking, shaping and clamping & letting the piece dry and then going back and doing final tweaks to the shape and gluing.
  9. LJC
    I’ll try to be better at updating the build log After trimming and shaping the side planks, I’ve installed the bow blocks and trimed them to fit. I’m going to need some filler in several areas.
  10. LJC
    Based on comments from other build logs, I spent a couple of hours adjusting the edges of the deck and frames so that the hull planking would lay smoothly over the framework. I chose to soak the side planks in water and then using the curves in my oval sink basin, I shaped the planks. By running the planks over the long and short curves in the basin, I was able to shape the planks so that they closely fit the frame and the keel. I then clamped the wet planks to the frame and Keel to dry.
  11. LJC
    The assembly of the cross frames to the keel was straightforward, except… The notches on frame, F1, F2, and F3 are cut at an angle to install the batten from bow to stern. If any of the frames are installed backward, the angle is not right for installing the batten and new notches will have to be cut. Not a big deal but next time I’ll mark certain parts as front and back.
  12. LJC
    Growing up in Tidewater Va, I wanted to build something similar to what I saw on the waters of Hampton Roads and the Chesapeake Bay. After reviewing numerous build logs, I chose the lobster smack because of the many logs with photos and helpful hints on this build. To keep this build separate from any other woodworking projects, I set up space in a spare room. After reviewing the build instructions multiple times, I opened the kit and trimmed & sanded pieces for the initial build.
  13. LJC
    Palmerit, thanks for the posts. I did see her YouTube build and plan on referring to it especially when I’m out of ideas. As for tags, I’m still learning how to use all the features of the log.
  14. LJC
    I’m new to model ship building and have been inspired by my brother‘s work. I’m a retired nuclear engineer, but have done woodworking as a hobby all my life. Since retiring, I am working part time building new houses as well as renovations. I have chosen the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack as my first model build and to track in Model Ship World. I have spent about 14 hours on the build so far, but I’m just getting around to starting the log.

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