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MintGum

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  1. I'm surprised Ultimation doesn't publish limits or at least guidelines for both soft and hard woods. They do have videos showing the slicing of fairly thick what appears to be a softer wood using the squaring technique.
  2. Agreed, though the KG50 doesn't appear to be available in the US. Do you use a circular saw (chop or table) for thicker materials? Which model? Not sure if the Ultimation Slicer would be capable of square ends in thicker hardwoods. Haven't seen any evidence confirming or denying it. Any members willing to try their slicer on thicker (1/8 in - 1/4 in +) hardwood (pear, boxwood, rosewood, etc...)?
  3. This is also a nice setup. The crescent shape would need to be custom machined or just cut a brass disc in half. Brass rod of the appropriate diameter for the soldering iron would be enough. Riveting the two together... would need to machine an end onto the brass rod and drill an offset hole in the crescent. Very doable for those with a mill. Might even be able to do this with hand tools. Machine shops are expensive though, need to get myself a mill... 😁
  4. Definitely a viable option. Thank you for pointing this out.
  5. It doesn't have to be 100W. I was using that figure as it is what the soldering iron that comes with the ebay bender/shovel was advertised at.
  6. After communicating with several of the various Ebay sellers of this bender, the included soldering iron is a 220V model with a China electrical plug. What that means is that when it is operated @ 220V it will output 100W but when plugged into a US outlet (with an adapater if necessary) @ 110V it will only output 25W. If it's the 60W model it will only operate @ 15W in the US. The suggestion was that the bender and mini shovel be purchased separate and that the US buyer obtain a soldering iron with 100W output on US 110V. Has anyone purchased this bender/shovel and/or successfully found a compatible soldering iron that outputs @ 100W on US 110V?
  7. For those who own the mini chop saws, does the hump in the clamp affect what or how you cut? It seems that it would work well for solid pieces but if cutting a stack of thin planks it would allow them to flex - especially when nearing the end of the stack. Also, the work piece would be susceptible to wobbling. It appears that even the high end Proxxon KG50 is designed this way. Though the KG50 doesn't appear to be available in the US. The higher end Proxxon KGS80 doesn't have the "hump" but instead it has a bowl shape underneath the blade. Not sure why these aren't designed with a simple slot in the table for the blade to pass through with the vice clamp level with the table... maybe it adds more cost.
  8. Will do. Stop back anytime! Good luck and Happy New Year!
  9. #28 is where you commented on cutting 1/32" planks. Thanks! Was the saw kerf an issue in efficiently utilizing the material provided in the kit? IOW, were you able to get reasonably close to 5 - 80mm planks from a 400mm?
  10. You are correct, I started a thread asking for OEM and experience concerning the various choppers and slicers on the market. I interpreted the various question mark symbols (?) in your response as being questions that I responded to. OEM? Who cares? I care about OEM's as their design and manufacturing tend to be original and superior than those of non-licensed after market manufacturers. Do you use your mini chop/cut-off saw to cut deck planking? Have you used it on the thin planks of Occre or Artesania Latina kits? How did it perform?
  11. OEM's generally produce higher quality products at an increased cost. Find the OEM and quality/cost comparisons are possible vs the plethora of copies.
  12. While outside the realm of this thread, these machines all look like copies of each other, rebranded and marketed under different names. As is often the question, what was the OEM(s)? Amazon, Vevor, Harbor Freight, Micro Mark, etc... all appear to be copies of which OEM?
  13. These don't fall in the knife blade driven chopper/slicer category. They are basically cut-off or chop saws. Reviews on these cheap units indicate weak motors, distorted blades and other anamolies. The one you posted is ~$29 on Amazon, a Proxxon is $329. Price might make a difference in quality in this category. Please post a picture of your 20 year old unit. You do mention using it on thicker stock but using a unit like this on ultra thin stock, like what the chopper/slicers were made for, would most likely yield unsatisfactory results.
  14. Stock type, Stock thickness, blade thickness, knife edge style and blade speed are all factors. In addition, the shearing properties of the material being cut need to be considered. A thin piece of stock doesn't travel far up the V (or half V) shaped edge of the knife blade thus won't get "pushed or separated" by the slant knife edges as much as a thick piece of stock. A thick piece of stock travels farther up the V (or half V) shaped edge, sometimes even to the blade thickness and will be "pushed or separated (i.e. sheared)" by the knife much more than a thin piece of stock. Of course it's impossible to have a knife without a V or half V edge shape, the alternative is a saw which removes the thickness of the blade altogether. Shearing properties of wood:
  15. Agreed. Heat should be applied at some point - before, during and/or after bending. At what stages is heat application most beneficial? If the plank is wetted, jigged, dried, removed and heated would that cause warping or shrinking (as opposed to being heated in the jig)? The answers are mostly that it depends on various factors, plank thickness, how the heat is being applied, what type of heat application device is being used, etc... (i.e. Pressing the entire strip with an iron, running a plank bender along the strip, etc...)
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