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About Canute

  • Rank
    Engine Stoker 3rd Class
  • Birthday 10/18/1948

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Western NC
  • Interests
    Napoleonic Age of Sail, ACW

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  1. I remember building the Monogram Dauntless way back when. It, along with a lot of other planes, went ? after I went into the AF. Yours looks very good, Jack.
  2. Model Monkey has announced 3d printed cannon and carronades for the Connie. http://members.boardhost.com/Warship/msg/1553205153.html and https://www.model-monkey.com/constitution-96 They've also done up 1/100 HMS Victory cannon and other parts: http://members.boardhost.com/Warship/msg/1553174290.html and https://www.model-monkey.com/victory-100 I'm not connected with Model Monkey, just reporting on some items near and dear to our members.
  3. The action photo could be Coral Sea, the color one looks like Pearl Harbor.
  4. Denis, make sure all 4 wheels in each truck touch the workbench/track evenly. These multipart trucks can be finicky to make square. Good for display models, but tough to operate if one wheel is up in the air. The tender body and headlight look very good. The reflector in the headlight turned out well. Are you lighting it? If so, remember these were kerosene lamps, so they should have an old time yellow orange glow. Just a thought. Do you know anybody with a garden railroad? These garden layouts can be a multitude of scales, from 1/32 to 1/16, but all use the same gauge track. Try and get some pictures of the General on a garden railroad. Hopefully the kit gauge will work with the garden railway gauge. The distance between their rails should be 1.772 inches or 45 mm. That's also the distance from inside one wheel flange to the inside of the opposite flange.
  5. Yeah, the model airplane guys dip their canopies into that stuff and they come out nice and clear.
  6. Take a look at this model railroad car/parts site. There is a .010 wire next to the photoetched eyebolts for comparison: http://www.yarmouthmodelworks.com/index.php/ModelDetailParts/Miscellaneous Eyebolts with and without collars, about halfway down the page.
  7. Glad you got your dilemma cleared up, OC. I've used the toothpaste to clean up watch glass in the past. Our "family" always manages to come up with workable solutions. They're the best.👍
  8. Thank God for Optivisors. I'll tag along on this one, too.
  9. Put the Pledge/Future/Kleer on first, then decal. You want a smoooth surface for the decals.
  10. If you're gonna poke holes in thin sheet wood, put some tape behind/over the openings to prevent tear out. And a dab of sanding sealer, too. Yep, you're all hot to trot to get going on this little jewel, but....that basswood will soak up paint. And paint both sides or it'll look like the pleats on an accordion, if you use acrylics. Yeah, I did a similar thing. I have a model railroad stock car I started, but I have to regroup on the build, since it got a tad warped. So used to Floquil and Scalecoat, (solvent based paints) and forgot the basics.
  11. Sounds about right for me too. Although it's model railroad stuff. Would anyone be interested? Don't want to hijack Craig's thread.

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