wefalck
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wefalck's post in 1/30 scale deck accessories resources? was marked as the answer
At this scale buckets should be easy to make from thin paper or sheet-metal. They were either zinc-coated sheet-metal or emaille. Just look up photographs of the real thing and get inspired.
The typical brushes as used on boats could be made in a similar way with thread as the pommels on childrens' knitted ski-caps - talk to a female family member, they probably will know, or have again a look on the Internet. This thing should be fitted to a wooden broom-handle then.
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wefalck's post in Long term CA vapors was marked as the answer
In theory, once polymerised, which takes a few seconds, there should be no fumes.
The best way to avoid issues with CA is to not use it on things for which other glues/cements are available
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wefalck's post in Iron plating on Erebus and Terror was marked as the answer
A rivet does not necessarily need to be red-hot, but indeed, it needs to be accessible from both side. The planks of clinker-built hulls are rivetted together, but there the rivets are made from copper. During the Viking-age, I think also iron rivets were used, but they tend to rot the wood or corrode due to tannins in the wood.
If the iron used for the rivets was sufficiently malleable, one could form the the heads on the outside using cold hammering.
Another possibility is, that the bolts were not actually rivetted, i.e. a head was formed, but clenched, i.e. the points were turned over and driven back into the wood. This, howver, requires space inside the hull to work in. Given the realtively blunt bows of the time and that it would be at waterline level, this should have been possible.
I gather, the term 'rivetted' refers to the fact that the plates were not just nailed on, as copper sheathing would be, but fastened with through-bolts/rivets.
Today, one probably would use coach-bolts for such a task, but at that time threads and nuts were made still individually to match, no norms and only rudimentary thread-cutting technology. The thread-cutting lathe hadn't been invented by Maudslay until somewhat later in the 1840s.
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wefalck's post in How to seize a block to an iron band was marked as the answer
If you download this article I wrote in 1980, on the second page there is a sketch (no. 13 and 14) for how to make fake splices and how to tie in blocks: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/tips/FALCK-SM-5-80.pdf
This was written at a time, when there was no Internet to ask questions, but one had some books on full-size practice and then deducted some useful practice for modelling.
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wefalck's post in Rabbet was marked as the answer
The rabbet is there to keep the garboard plank close to the keel, even if the ship is flexing and twisting in a sea. So most larger seagoing vessels are constructed with rabbets in the keel and the stem.
When the garboard sits more less vertical on the keel, theoretically, you have two options for the rabbet, you can cut a square groove (or square notch, if there is a keelson sitting directly on the keel) or you can cut a triangular groove, as usual, but then have to sharpen the edge of the plank to fit. The square groove/notch arrangement would be difficult to get water-tight, as the slightest variation of thickness of the plank in the groove can cause it work loose and the caulking to fall out. If you have a triangular groove, you will be wedging the garboard plank into that groove and it cannot move in any direction.
However, whether it is worth to replicate this on a model is another question. One cannot see this, once the planking is finished and you can arrange the rabbet in the way that is easiest to make - that is when you only care about appearance and don't want to reproduce actual building techniques.
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