ricky86 Posted February 10 Share #1 Posted February 10 Hi Slogging along with this Billings Nordkap 476. There are areas where CA is needed, like the window frames. They also receive either styrene or acetate inserts. I have canopy glue for that. Basically, very expensive Elmers Anyone know just how long CA gives off the vapors that cause the dreaded fog. Also, will a heavy coat of paint and or poly seal CA area. Thank you. Keith Black, mtaylor and thibaultron 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted February 10 Share #2 Posted February 10 (edited) I use a whole lot of CA and other than the initial waft I haven't noticed any long term vapors. A normal application of craft acrylics easily covers CA. If you're using CA on wood that will be poly sealed or stained and not painted, CA will discolor the wood where CA was applied. To minimize this I use a homemade needle applicator and wick away any CA excess with a Q-Tip as quickly as possible. If you dawdle you increase the chances of having cotton fibers from the Q-Tip stick to the wood. It's always best to test technique on scrap pieces till perfected. Edited February 11 by Keith Black Canute, thibaultron and mtaylor 3 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted February 10 Share #3 Posted February 10 I think what he is talking about is that CA fumes will fog clear plastic and acitate. I don't know how long you have to wait. Keith Black, CraigVT, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky86 Posted February 11 Author Share #4 Posted February 11 Thanks guys. As always, picked up ideas No exposed wood except deck. I have painted the inside with cheap black craft paint. Well covered. I think maybe a light coat of poly over that. That’s probably overkill. Nothing inside to see anyway and the windows will be tinted gray. I’m getting so close. Another 6 - 7 years, I hope lol, it’ll be worthy of a pic. Hopefully. Always a pleasure Thanks. thibaultron, Keith Black, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution wefalck Posted February 13 Solution Share #5 Posted February 13 In theory, once polymerised, which takes a few seconds, there should be no fumes. The best way to avoid issues with CA is to not use it on things for which other glues/cements are available Canute, Keith Black, Bob Cleek and 3 others 6 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted February 13 Share #6 Posted February 13 I've experienced that excessive CA glue "pond" lasted for a month. It is good to use a limited amount, and the CA applicator helps to control it. I remove CA glue with Q-tips. Also, thin and fast running CA glue tends to produce more vapor and an eye-hurting smell. It is one of reasons I prefer middle thick CA glue for woodworking. In addition, CA primer or accelerator harden CA glue in a second. Canute, mtaylor, Keith Black and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted February 13 Share #7 Posted February 13 Something I learned as a teenager from my father, who was a chemist working with acrylics in the pharmaceutical industry, is that CA needs humity to trigger polymerisation - therefore one should gently breathe on the are to cemented together and onto the CA applied. Indeed, a big blob of CA will quickly polymerise on the outside, but that forms a shell into which humidity cannot penetrate to support polymerisation. Hence, it may take a while for such a blob to fully cure. Canute, Roger Pellett, Keith Black and 4 others 7 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted February 13 Share #8 Posted February 13 The way CA wicks into cracks it doesn't take much, there's no need to pond. A few applications with a needle applicator is sufficient. thibaultron, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted February 14 Share #9 Posted February 14 13 hours ago, modeller_masa said: I've experienced that excessive CA glue "pond" lasted for a month. It is good to use a limited amount, and the CA applicator helps to control it. I remove CA glue with Q-tips. Also, thin and fast running CA glue tends to produce more vapor and an eye-hurting smell. It is one of reasons I prefer middle thick CA glue for woodworking. In addition, CA primer or accelerator harden CA glue in a second. The accelerators can also mar clear parts. modeller_masa, mtaylor, Keith Black and 1 other 4 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky86 Posted February 23 Author Share #10 Posted February 23 Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I am aware, CA does have its drawbacks. The convenience and speed vs clouding, stink and the ever present gluing of the fingers. Thanks Guys. Canute, Keith Black and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Shea Posted March 23 Share #11 Posted March 23 (edited) On 2/23/2024 at 2:48 PM, ricky86 said: Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I am aware, CA does have its drawbacks. The convenience and speed vs clouding, stink and the ever present gluing of the fingers. Thanks Guys. One method I do for avoiding messes and the occasional finger (or arm - ha!) gluing while using CA cement is to use some 1/4" poster board cut into 2 by 2 inch squares with some double sided tape on the bottom. Just stick the little board down out of the way on your work bench and then place the desired amount of CA cement on the board as a palette. Once all the space on the board has been used up just toss it and repeat the process. Also, a fly tying bodkin as a CA applicator works great! Just swirl the tip of the bodkn into the drop of glue to pickup the desired amount. Burn off any globs of glue that start to accumulate with a cigarette lighter. The poster board method keeps things clean and organized. Edited March 23 by Mike Shea Canute, Keith Black and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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