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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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  • Location
    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. Do you play golf, or do you still have sex ...
  2. I agree, without explicit reference to IKEA that post was rather cryptic. I went more often to IKEA for a particular reason than I care to remember, but even though all stores are laid out in a similar way, it is still difficult to keep your bearings. By now, I know my shortcuts, but for a novice or occasional visitor, or women who are topologically challenged ( ), this can be very confusing.
  3. There are not shipmodelling, railway modelling, figure modelling etc. techniques, there are techniques for particular tasks that can be applied here and there, as the need arises
  4. For priming/filling wood I use a nitrocellulose base product (German brand Clou). It often suffices, when a satin finish is required, the second being rubbed down with 0000 steel-wool. Can be polished to a higher sheen with e.g. felt polish wheels - almost invisible coating. For high-gloss finishes bleached or unbleached shellac solution, either ready made (by Clou) or dissolved as flakes in denatured alcohol for special applications - can be used as cement (as watchmakers traditionally do). The traditional varnish to prevent silver and brass from tarnishing is 'zapon v
  5. 'Red ochre' is iron-oxyhydroxide (FeOOH), depending on the amount of crystal water and the purity of the material, it can be actually anything from a pretty bright red to a dark brown. Dark brown would be ok (in some navies the cast-iron guns were made to corrode with vinegar and the resulting mixture of iron-acetate and iron-oxyhydroxide solidified in situ by rubbing the gun with line-seed oil), but a red gun would show stains from powder-smoke and the powder-slime from washing out the guns all over. There is a good reason, why guns were painted dark.
  6. The armies all over Europe used gangs of 'recruiters', who worked like press gangs. So one should assume that the respective navies did so as well in times of need.
  7. The shackle looks nice as well ! I meant this kind of saw blade: https://www.ebay.de/itm/201975383662?hash=item2f06abc66e:g:GC4AAOSw-29ZWxFd It is sold by the metre in various diameters from 0.26 mm upward for fretsaw work on semi-precious stones. They are not cheap though, 8€ to 10€ the metre, but you can hold it in an (older, as diamond may mar the jaws) pin-vise.
  8. Mostly overlooked by modellers, but the shipwrights and boatbuilders of old took great care and pride in finishing their work, running down a moulding-plane here and there. It also had the practical purpose of rounding off edges to prevent splintering. Not easy to reproduce below certain scale, which is probably the reason, why it is rarely reproduced by us modellers.
  9. As I said above, solved mystery: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sailing_stones
  10. With e.g. Photoshop you can get rid of the background: ... o.k. it bit more fine-tuning would be needed for the shadows underneath the stand.
  11. The one with the cows reminded me of the one with the converted vegetarian: when he came to chicken-breeder to buy a box of chicks for the third time within a few weeks, the breeder asked him, whether there was a problem. The converted vegetarian responded: "I don't know, I seem to do something wrong, either I plant them too shallow or too deep ... "
  12. I know these rabbit holes all too well ... Looking good the blocks, so the tumbler works. If you have a file fine enough, or some diamond-coated round fret-saw blade or a very sharp chisel, I would round off the edges of the holes to simulate the sheaves. It looks better, when the ropes don't come out of the holes with a sharp bend.
  13. I gather you scrape off any glue squirting out while it is still wet - hence also the wetting brush ? What kind of chisels do you use ?
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