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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. The new Hamburg Harbour Museum, which will host the PEKING, has been able to secure a multi-million Euro grant from the Federal German Government that will be disbursed over the years to come. This is quite remarkable, as public funding for the preservation of the German maritime heritage has been notoriously scarce. It is important to remember that not only the restoration has to be paid for, but also the continuous upkeep. One should note that a sister ship of the PEKING, the PASSAT, has been in preservation in Travemünde (Germany) since 1957. She was 'grounded' after the desaster of their sister PAMIR in the Atlantic Ocean, which brought the era of merchant sail training ships to an end in Germany. A colleague of mine has been visiting her recently: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/ontour/viermastbark-passat/ Incidentally the Prussian Navy bought two RN training brigs, HMS MUSQUITO (1851) and HMS ROVER (1853) in 1862 and used them under their old names as cadet training brigs. In 1871 they became part of the Imperial Germany Navy and stayed in service until 1891. SMS MUSQUITO
  2. I use clear solvent-based varnish, rather then glue. A drop of solvent allows you to re-adjust things, if needed.
  3. Well, I have been collecting these for about 30 years now ... The sanding discs are of various diameters, ranging from 40 to 70 mm. I have flat disc onto which wet-and-dry paper of various grades is stuck and diamond discs of various grades. I quite like the diamond discs, but they are not easy to get to run flat, though I have good arbors. They are quite cheap, so perhaps I should sacrifice one side and stick them to a flat running thick wood or metal disc. It would be quite simple to build yourself a disc sander with the various components that are now available cheaply from ebay. For really delicate work, I find that most commercial machines run too fast. Some times you need to take off just a few 1/100 mm in order to fit a piece. I am running the 40 mm diamond discs at around 100 rpm only. Work holding is the major challenge, if you have really small parts. So I made various kind of clamps with defined edges/surfaces that can be guided by the fences.
  4. I have just put on-line a page on my Web-site on the traditional boats of the Albufera lagoon south of Valencia (Spain): https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/albufera/Boats-of-the-Albufera.html
  5. True. Usually, edges were bevelled or rounded or profiled using different types of planes - something that is not often reproduced in models. But in the case of the keel/stem, as in other cases, one should check against the prototype what was/would have been really done. One should also not overestimate the radius of any rounding and work to scale. So on a model the edge might still appear quite sharp.
  6. We tend to underestimate the colourfulness of past worlds. The paint has usually disappeared from preserved artefacts and they are typically preserved under unoxic conditions (which is why they have survived), which tend to turn the woods dark, almost black (think of the preserved Viking ships). We now imagine them like this, which is not necessarily correct. The same for say gothic churches or greek statues - they have lost their paint over time or were stripped due to changing aesthetics. So, the medieval and early modern world was probably more colourful than we tend to think today. However, sensitive surface analytical techniques often reveal traces of paint. Which pigments were used depends on their availability and price for a particular time and location. Some earth-pigments, such as yellow or red ochre were cheap almost everywhere. Dito chalk/lime for a white colour. Otherwise, the baseline technique for wood conservation would be to apply wood-tar, which gives the wood a translucent, brownish-reddish colour. Also mixtures with lineseed-oil were used. Adding a pigment to lineseed-oil is easy - you just get oil-paint.
  7. Spending 200+ USD seems to be a bit over the top. Hand-cranking seems to be attractive because of the speed control, but co-ordinating the two movements is not easy. I solved the problem through a speed-control and a foot-switch. You can put an ordinary plug-type dimmer (with the apropriate rating) between the disc-sander and the wall-socket and you got your speed-control. I built myself a micro disc-sander around the headstock of a watchmakers lathe: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/microgrinder/microgrinder.html And I also made this little hand-sander: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/handsander/handsander.html Dust is not really a problem, considering the small quantities of material taken off.
  8. Sure, old toolmaker's tools are the best, but I recently found quite good quality ones on ebay (disclaimer: I have no other relationship with the sellers then as a customer): https://www.ebay.de/itm/Good-Quality-Slim-Brass-Single-Ended-Pin-Vise-Tools-Hold-Drills-Pins-Wire-Vice/281157809979?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Quality-Wooden-Handle-Single-Ended-Pin-Vise-Tools-Hold-Drills-Pins-Wire-Vice/281339713517?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Stay away from double-ended pin-vices and those with collets. It is good to have a whole collection of them, as it is handy to leave certain tools in them for quick use.
  9. Working on several projects at the same time can be dangerous, as you may loose track of what you are doing and what you have been planning. Though it happens, that I slip a shorter project in between working on a long-term project. When building from scratch, there are certain natural sequences, as certain parts have to be finished, before you can tackle others. For many details this is not so important and I can take on what I fancy or what seems to provide a particular manufacturing challenge. I may also work in parallel on different parts that require the same machine-tool set up. Or I stop working on something for a while that turns out to be too fiddly and continue with something else, where one can see more progress in shorter time. And then their is procrastination: some parts that seem to be too challenging or which there are different alternative routes I might push in front of me ...
  10. France went metric during the French Revolution in 1799. So it presumably depends on which set of plans from the Ancre-Collection one is talking about, whether the scales are in measures of the 'Ancien Régime' or metric. The original 'metre' and 'kilogramme' standards are preserved in the Bureau international des Poids et Mesures (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Bureau_of_Weights_and_Measures) - a stone-throw from where I live. It took most countries until the end of the 19th century to become officially metric. What most people don't know is that even the 'Imperial' system today is actually based on the metric system, as the length of the inch is defined as a fraction of the metre. Although Germany officially went metric in 1872, we still use e.g. the Pfund (= pound of 500 g) in everyday conversation. It is true that virtually all major cities around Europe had their own definition of 'inch' and 'foot'. The difficulty is indeed to know which 'inch' and 'foot' the author of a plan or book actually used. Sometimes they state this somewhere, but not always. Knowing the nationality of an author or where he worked may be not sufficient. I had the case, where I had plans drawn in the late 1860s by a German from Hamburg and I assumed that he used Hamburg Feet (= 286,57 mm), but overlooked the small-print, where he actually stated that he used British Feet (= 304,8 mm) - my model thus ended up being 6% too short or 1/64 scale, rather than the intended 1/60 scale.
  11. I would let the white glue set to a rubbery consistency and then scrape/peel it off. Too early, then it smears around (as you noticed) - too late, then you may rip out fibres of the wood.
  12. A classical book (for Germany) on this subject is: DITTMER, R., LIECKFELD, G., ROMBERG, F. (1911): Motoren und Winden für die See- und Küstenfischerei.- 2 Teile, 140+102 p., München/Berlin (R. Oldenbourg). The library of the Technical University of Berlin has a copy that I have seen. It doesn't seem to have been digitised yet. Then there is: ROMBERG, F. (1912): Der Ölmotor im deutschen Seefischereibetriebe.- Jb. Schiffbautechn. Ges., 13: 173-263. Also no digital version identified. Wolfgang Rudolph has also written a series of articles about boat engines as used around the German Baltic coast: RUDOLPH, W. (1996): Bootsmotorenbau im Deutschen Küstenbereich (bis 1945). Teil 1: Die Ostseeregion.- Deutsches Schiffahrtsarchiv, 19: 367-401, Wiefelstede (Oceanum-Verlag). RUDOLPH, W. (1997): Bootsmotorenbau im Deutschen Küstenbereich (bis 1945). Teil 2: Die Nordseeregion.- Deutsches Schiffahrtsarchiv, 20: 503-530, Wiefelstede (Oceanum-Verlag). RUDOLPH, W. (1998): Bootsmotorenbau im ostdeutschen Binnenland (bis 1945).- Deutsches Schiffahrtsarchiv, 21: 255-278, Wiefelstede (Oceanum-Verlag). RUDOLPH, W. (1999): Bootsmotorenbau in Berlin (bis 1945).- Deutsches Schiffahrtsarchiv, 22: 343-360, Wiefelstede (Oceanum-Verlag). RUDOLPH, W. (2002): Die Frühzeit der Bootsmotorisierung: über deutsch-skandinavische Kulturkontakte im Ostseeraum.- Deutsches Schiffahrtsarchiv, 25: 325-336, Wiefelstede (Oceanum-Verlag). And: SIEBOLDS, ., BLOCK, . (1907): Die Einführung des Motors in die deutsche Segelfischerei.- 148 p., (reprint 2010, Salzwasserverlag). As a reprint is being sold, Google does not list any digitised version that may exist somewhere. Many early motors came from Sweden (e.g. Bolinder) or Denmark, where the motorisation of fishing-boats began earlier than in Germany. If you search e.g. for 'Bolinder engine', you will get some images.
  13. Shouldn‘t a Late 18th Century Cutter (this is, I assume, what HMS MERMAID is) have a four–siede gaff–topsail ? It would be suspended from a short yard.
  14. There are detailed drawings in Middensdorf‘s Book of 1905 on masting and rigging (in German). He draws on his experience in rigging the Late Flying–P–Liners, which include the PASSAT and the PADUA, as well as the PREUSSEN.

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