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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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  • Location
    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. This is off-topic, of course: I spent the last 25+ years helping governments and intergovernment organisations to sort out such mining legacies and to prevent them in the future ... Back to the shipping lane dredges (which can be also environmentally problematic ...)
  2. As a geologist and environmental scientist, I am well aware of them. There is a sort of reality TV series on Discovery Channel on artisanal mining operations with such dredges. It makes me shudder, when I see the environmental havvoc they are causing ... 🤯
  3. I have been collecting plans for dredgers for many years. I was particularly interestedin the chain-bucket dredgers, as there would be lots of visible mechanical parts to make on the lathe and mill. The subject dredger is rather curious in the sense that the suction/cutting head could only move up and down. Normally, there would be a sort of ball-joint that would allow the head to swing in arc. Here the whole barge is pivotted on the ‚leg‘ in the rear and swung around. I suppose it would be moored off the business end and pulled to the left and right and forward too. However, I don’t see the usual winches. will keep an eye on the progress.
  4. Missed the start of another ‚Baron‘ ... difficult to keep up with the pace. 😉 Here are pictures of a couple of bragozzi in the Museo Storico Navale in Venice: http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html
  5. Thanks, Keith, for the nice words, but I had the feeling that it was more a tinkering than an engineering job in the end ...
  6. It saddens to think that most of the people on board in the film perished a few days later ... I noted that the names of the tugs have been 'whitened' out - later war-time censorship ?
  7. If wood grows fast, it means low density - just a question of metabolism and thermodynamics, regardless of species ...
  8. Imagna, I am not at the painting stage yet. I tend to complete most of the parts, before painting anything in order not to damage any painting while fitting and handling parts. For painting, I use high-quality acrylics readily diluted for air-brushing. Apart from ensuring that there is no grease on the surfaces, e.g. from one's hands, by wiping with aceton (if this can be done safely - not on parts cemented together with lacquer, obviously) I do not make any special surface preparations. Acrylics usually stick very well to the surfaces of the materials I use, when air-brushed. Once painted, the parts are handled as little as possible to avoid any damage to the paint coat and not to leave finger prints that may alter the sheen (if matte paint is used).
  9. Thanks all. Well, I just put the ladder in for the photograph - have to pay attention not to mess things up, when the pieces finally come together after painting.
  10. After many trials and tribulations I completed the awnings over the hatch that leads down into the the deckshouse. Such hatches were protected by railings made from polished brass tubes with connectors cast in brass. The railings had sockets into which arched awning stanchions could be fitted. The hole arrangement could be dismantled in order to be able to cover the hatches in very bad weather. The old photograph shows a similar arrangement on an austro-hungarian warship of the same period. The contemporary drawings of SMS WESPE show such quite complex hatch-cover. Hatch and its cover on board of an austro-hungarian warship of about the same period I first attempted to turn the stanchions from brass wire or small brass nails, but both materials turned out to be too soft given that they are 5 mm long with a diameter of only 0.3 mm. Even my sophisticated steadies didn’t work. In the end I had to fabricate them from 0.3 mm with 0,5 mm sections of 0.5 diameter brass tube slipped over them. The upper connectors were cross-drilled in the dividing head on my micro-mill for the 0.2 mm horizontals. I also attempted to turn 0.7 mm diameter knobs to fit onto the stanchions using a specially made cutting bit. While they turned out reasonably well, it proved impossible to fit them – I lost them faster than I could make new ones ... the knobs are simulated by tiny blobs of of white glue, painted in brass. Acceptable at normal viewing distance, but pretty awful in close-up photography. Attempts to provide the stanchions with sockets for the awning-stanchions failed and I simplified the construction by just making a wire-loop at the end, that slips over the stanchions before the knobs were made. The knob in the centre was turned and cross-drilled. The hatch-coaming was fabricated from two layers of bakelite so that it would rest on the deck. The corners were drilled 0.3 mm for the stanchions. Assembly proved a major challenge for my patience and took me several evenings. Luckily, SMS WESPE has only one such hatch cover. The whole structure was assembled using lacquer. It would have been better to solder it, but I wanted to keep the polished brass appearance – nothing looks more like metal, well, then metal ! Nevertheless, I have some very good metallic paint made by a Czech company (http://www.agama-color.cz/en/products/colours) that was used on the knobs. The model representation. The hatch is 7 mm x 11 mm – close-up photographs are unforgiving To be continued soon(?) ...
  11. Yes, I will try to reproduce the finish of old museum models, say with visible brass nails in the planks etc., but probably no sails. I have to deal with the somewhat rustique appearance of the planking. Saw the UTRECHT once moored in front of the museum in Amsterdam (and have your book).
  12. Yes, Artitec makes good stuff. I have had the 'statenjacht' sitting on my shelf for 10+ years. My knowledge of 18th century shipbuilding is rather limited, but I find the type aesthetically pleasing and of manageable complexity. I plan to complete it one day as a 'model of a model', rather than a realistic depiction of an actual ship.
  13. Sometimes I felt (and still feel) guilty to have started from a kit, rather than from 'scratch', particularly after I had amassed probably most of the literature that is available, plus numerous pictures from preserved specimens. On the other hand, it depends on the purpose of a model, whether you want to demonstrate your craftsmanship or, whether you want to create a true to the prototype miniature as possible, based on research. I gather in the latter case, it is not so important what is 'underneath', if the appearance and details are as correct, as possible.
  14. Actually, with due diligence one should have noted down all the details at the moment the deal was concluded. I would just wait a week and see, whether the item arrives. Still, it makes me wonder, why someone sells a (new?) MF70 at 45US$, while the normal price is ten times that. Looks a bit suspicious.

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