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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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  • Location
    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. Perhaps another thought: this is a past-time, something we do in our spare hours. So, I like to be in a pleasant, comfortable atmosphere that is also congenial to the subject I am working on. Hence, I have tried to create around me a bit of a 19th or early 20th century workshop atmosphere. I know, there are practical limitations to comfort, when you work with larger woodworking machinery and the dust it may create in spite of extractions fans etc. For me this is not a modern, efficient industrial environment, but I want to immerse into an atmosphere more contemporary to the models. Therefore, I prefer also 'warm' lighting and being surrounded by wooden cabinets. Not only the final product matters, but the way towards it. After all it is valuable life-time you are spending in the workshop.
  2. There is also the 'Mini-Lathe' Web-site that should answer allmost any question about these lathes. It has been around for some 20 years by now. Used to subscribe to 'Model Engineer's Workshop', but since the publishers Nexus ran into trouble and it was delivered somewhat haphazardly, I gave up the subscription. I am sorry to say, but this kind of subscription has been superseded largely now by the Internet and the fora.
  3. I used the threaded inserts mentioned by Roger Pellet for tying down interchangeable bases for my watchmakers lathes on the lathe stand, but didn't think of putting them into the workbench at strategic locations for tying down other moveable equipment - made a mental note for this !
  4. It probably would have had what is called 'grapnel': From: https://www.alwayshobbies.com/model-boats/model-boat-fittings/aero-naut-grapnel-anchor
  5. Looking at the rudimentary drawing, this looks like a patent windlass that would be worked with the T-shaped handle bar. These did not exist yet in the 1830s. Off the cuff, I am not sure, when they were introduced, but probably not on a larger scale before the 1850s. Their construction involves the casting and machining of larger pieces of iron, which was not available everywere. Originally, a boat of the 1830s would have been fitted with a simple windlass, operated by handle bars. A patent windlass may have been fitted later, of course. What do you know about your prototype ? Ships that did not need to anchor frequently would have retained the simple windlass for reasons of economy. A frequently reproduced illustration of a patent windlass you will find in Paasch's 'From Keel to Truck', which can be downloaded on the Internet. I have a collection of windlass pictures, but it would be useful first to ascertain what kind of windlass may be required, before pulling them out of my collection.
  6. Some ten years ago I bought an ER11 collet chuck for my watchmakers lathe and set of collets from 0.5 to 7 mm in 0.5 mm steps. I think the set cost me less than 50€ and I use them now always instead of a drill-chuck. Beware that ER-collets are meant for tool-holding and may not grip safely, if the part does not go through completely.
  7. 9°C being 'comfortable' ? That's just above freezing ! You Brits are crazy (at least concerning temperatures) - but I knew this from my years in Nottingham (when I first moved up there and looked for a place to rent, I visited one that was advertised to have 'central heating' - well it hat a single gas-fire that was located centrally in the apartment ...).
  8. Perhaps you then should invest into a chuck for ER collets and some small collets ... There are also drills down to 0.5 mm with 2.35 mm bodies (like the well-known burrs etc.)
  9. I almost don't dare to say this (it could sound like desperately looking for a fly in the soup): the rope for the rudder halliard looks a bit soft, meaning that it could be twisted a bit tighter in order to keep with the quality of the rest of the model ...
  10. Coming back to the lugs for the shrouds etc. (have been travelling last week and couldn't follow progress): how would they have been attach to the bulwark on the prototype ? Somehow, I would have expected some sort of chainplate to distribute the stress or the stanchions taking this function (albeit they are leaning the wrong way for this - or perhaps the right way in order to prevent the bulwark being pulled in by the shrouds). No comments on the metal-work
  11. Impressive metal-work on the davits. I gather you used some sort of jig to keep everything together, while soldering ?
  12. I quite like solid brass pins as raw material, because the forging/stamping process hardens the material and makes it easier to turn. However, if you have access to hard brass rods, that is probably the easier option, requiring few machining steps. What shall I say, I can only join into the chorus of praise ...
  13. At the end of the 1950s I was just geeting out of my toddler years and already very much interested in everything mechanical. Unfortunately, there was no MEE in my country. My paternal grandfather (a torpedo mechanic in the Imperial German Navy up to the end of WW1) surely would have taken me there, had there been a MEE and hadn't he suffered from dementia and died too early. My father was into electronics and always a bit ambigeous about my model building activities.
  14. Kit manufacturers indeed give the lenght, but beware that proportions of blocks changed quite a bit over times. I see that you are working on a sub-modern boat - in more recent decades blocks tend to be a lot flatter than in the preceding centuries Their proportions would also be different depending on whether they have an external strop made from rope (in the old days) or an internal strop made from iron (more modern).
  15. Tape seems to be a good idea in principle, because one can write onto it - otherwise one can tie the lines together with short pieces of sewing thread - or bunch them up prototype fashion

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