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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. Some of them just show historical and linguistic ignorance
  2. Oh, I am constantly looking for inspiration in other areas of model-making and new products also from other areas than modell-making ... Not sure that mould-making for 1 mm-blocks would actually work, at least not with silicone.
  3. This problem has been nagging me for decades actually. So mentally at least, I probably have been through most of the ideas: - making a set of dies to shape a block from soldering tin around a wire - inspired by the lead seals you see on electricity meters and the like; could work for larger sizes, but it would be difficult to pull out tiny wires, even when you use tungsten or NiCr. - same idea but using the dies to shape a ball of two-part expoxy (Milliput or similar); same problem with releasing the wire when set or distorting the block, when pulling it out while the epoxy is still soft. - casting in some resin using silicone moulds with wires embedded to keep the hole open; again releasing the wire is the problem. The last two methods would allow to imbed internal strops relatively easily. Somehow, I came to the conclusion, that some rough-machining with good old hand-work in some reasonably hard and dense material (I prefer bakelite) is the solution - unless ... - I have tried to entice a colleague for some time now to design some blocks and print them in his UV-curing resin 3D printer, but he hasn't got around to do it yet. Even if the printing doesn't keep the space above the sheave completely open, re-drilling it is much less work. All the grooves for the rope strops etc. would be formed on already, of course. Making rope-stropped blocks is much less of a problem than internally stropped ones. However, one could 3D-print them, then add the wire-strops as per Wingrove's method and fill/seal the grooves with a tiny blob of UV-curing cement.
  4. Been down that road, but it turned out to be a cul-de-sac ... when you are working on 1 to 1.5 mm long blocks, this means that the strop is 1/10 the diameter, i.e. 0.1 mm. If you flatten that not much of substance is left ...
  5. The idea is that the solder fills any gab between the wire and the slot, so silver soldering may not be ideal and one may actually burn away thin wires …
  6. Thanks, Roger, that gives me indeed some more ideas 👍 Internally stropped blocks are particularly difficult to make. I think I would mount the rod excentrically in the lathe, as the sheave sits a bit closer to the bottom end of the block. However, grinding such form-tools is probably the most difficult part. The key idea probably is to wrap the wire around in a groove, solder it in and then file the cheeks of the blocks flat. Could be perhaps also done with (super)glueing, using some highly-viscous CA. As I said, gives ideas.
  7. I love this filigree and intricate appearance of such small-scale models. Good job !
  8. Quote from a cannibal: Computers never will replace humans! And another cannibal said to his friend: Some people think that some people are better than others - but I personally think it only depends on the way how you cook them!
  9. A tank is a must for a useful compressor - otherwise you will have constant pressure fluctuations.
  10. As Roger said, when contemplating on of these air-erasers, one has to carefully consider the modelling environment. They were developed originally for professional draughtspeople, so a sandblasting-booth is not necessarily needed, but the resulting dust would not be welcome in a domestic environment. There are, however, also shoebox-sized sandblasting boxes that are sold together with them. Railway modellers seem to use them quite frequently to prepare their etched-brass kits for painting. When buying a compressor to use in a domestic environment, particularly in an appartment, the noise and vibration generated can also be an issue. Cheap models may be a problem in this context. Also, an air-eraser needs more pressure to be effective, than an air-brush.
  11. That's kind off-topic, but during the first colonoscopy I had (in Austria they do without general anaesthetics, unlike here in France), the doctor asked me, whether I would care to look on the screen at what he was doing - provided me with completely new insights into myself
  12. That looks all like rather complicated pieces of hardware - I hate these parts that stick out at oblique angles that can only be determined on the object itself - difficult enough in full-size and a challenge on a model. Well done !
  13. As an add-on: delicate parts often cannot be treated mechanically and the application of acetone might dissolve glued joints in composite parts. Brush-painting using acrylics typically is not successful, put building up thin layers of spray-paint works without de-oxidising etc.
  14. The subject has been covered indeed in several threads in recent times. In a nutshell: brass forms a sort of 'greasy' oxide layer with time to which paint, incl. primer, does not adhere very well. Brass should be brightened before painting. This can be done mechanically, e.g. by rubbing it with fine steel wool, using rubber-bonded fine abrasive wheels, etc. Pickling is also a solution, as discussed in a quite recent thread on pickling material, the availability will depend on your region. In any case, I would wipe the pieces with acetone before painting to remove any possible traces of grease and not touch them again with bare fingers.
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