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ringbolt2013

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Everything posted by ringbolt2013

  1. ringbolt2013
    Yes, Yes, Yes that is correct in all particulars!!!! VERY nice. You do that real well, I'm proud of you! Tom
  2. ringbolt2013
    Bars were used quite often even into the now.....a swinging block would smash a glass pane quick as lightning and patching it in the middle of a storm could be catastrophic. Some kind of protection is a definite must. The bars on the Star of India are about 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) in Dia. and about 1 1/2 inches (38mm) apart. You can hardly see them from inside. Tom
  3. ringbolt2013
    This is a good example though I would think that the window panes should be halved......more square with support in the center. I'm sure that strength is sacrificed with the larger glass. Tom The skylight itself is a very good design and goes with the time frame you are interested in. Don't forget the metal bars!!
  4. ringbolt2013
    Glass was blown into a cylinder then cut and flattened while still plastic. You can always tell old glass panes by the ripple effect of the way it was made! A piece 12 x 12 is about as big as they could make as a standard size. Larger could be made but that was special order and usually too thin for use on board ships. Water hitting it weighs 8 plus pounds a gallon and you would be talking a lot of force. The iron rods are a must because of falling objects and people! Hope this is helpful Ollie. You are doing quite nicely and I bet you are learning a bunch! Tom
  5. ringbolt2013
    Lovely Just lovely!!
  6. ringbolt2013
    Anchors look great! Don't forget the huge ring! I like the gun ports... look right! Masting is scary, what ever color they are they HAVE TO BE STRAIGHT and not prone to warp. You want them to be somewhat stiff too as the rigging can pull them off true. Good luck! Tom
  7. ringbolt2013
    Make sure the proportions on your anchors are good!! I like the form on the black ones! I'm also the kind of guy that carved his own cleats when needed.......found a good ref on that in a back issue of Wooden Boat Mag. Did it for my sail boat!! Worked good!! Surprise, surprise White oak on the real ones old drawer bottom bass wood for the models. Tom
  8. ringbolt2013
    Bitt Heads are usually continuations of the frames and not an add-on at the rail. Check out where the frames are and place the Bitts above them in line. Does that help?? Tom Running thoughts..........bitts can also be on deck, attached to the deck beams usually with some bolts
  9. ringbolt2013
    Beeswax is THE thing for the ropes it takes all the fuzz and lays it.......BUT it also catches dust floating in the air so the model should be cased! Does that make sense with anybody?? By the way I still think you are doing a splendid job on the Ship Ollie!! Tom
  10. ringbolt2013
    Sorry to hear you are sick...Knock that off!!!! Get well soon...being sick really sucks!! Real nice on the paint job Ollie my goodness it looks real!! Tom
  11. ringbolt2013
    Beautiful ship, beautifully done!! Tom
  12. ringbolt2013
    I so agree with Sir James up there you have outdone yourself so far with this model. Looks real!! Tom
  13. ringbolt2013
    COOL!!! Gives the main deck a realistic look! Tom
  14. ringbolt2013
    Speaking of fasteners...did you know that the "screws" through the Keels and the heavy timbers were not threaded..they were just a plain rod....the rod was to carrode in the drilled hole and kind of 'weld" the iron to the wood. Neet
  15. ringbolt2013
    It would not have been copper as it is too soft ... bronze is the thing!! But once again WONDERFUL work Olllie!!
  16. ringbolt2013
    Sweeeet Ollie!!! WOW!
  17. ringbolt2013
    Outstanding Ollie I'm speachless and running out of adjitives. You do real good work and I'm happy to be able to see it!!! Tom
  18. ringbolt2013
    Amen!!
  19. ringbolt2013
    Material of the plates might be too thick to overlap in a proper way ...I don't know if you have enough to try it out with. Top plates always over the bottom plates and forward over the after is the standard. Check it out... Underhill, Davis and Longridge are some of my info. Tom
  20. ringbolt2013
    Yes to drag ... The stern was usually deeper in the water. That created the drag ... it allowed faster changes of course and added stability. Also helped stop the drift to leeward when sailing. I think that David has the right of it!!! Tom PS starting out nice!! It will be neet to see the finish!
  21. ringbolt2013
    Very nice look....makes for a good "feel" as one looks at the hull!! I am imprest with the entire finish!! Very professional!! Tom
  22. ringbolt2013
    All that I have read was guns of 3lb, 4lb or 6lb usualy using canister or langrage for close in work as pirates had large crews....nothing like a large shotgun to reduce the numbers!! I'm sure that round shot was used too but these guns would hardly make a dent in a good sized frigate or a real man-o-war...scantlings being what they were. I'm sure that most cutters never really carried a full compliment, though in war I personally would like every gun I could get my hands on!! Tom
  23. ringbolt2013
    Ollie your gunports look splendid. I kind of wonder though that I should perhaps be seeing 6 ports a side even though only 2 were filled.... I can't quite get away from that...used as wash ports I suspect.....sorry...most of my plans (I have 6 different cutters in my collection) have the 5-6 ports a side!?!?!?!? Go figure! Tom
  24. ringbolt2013
    Something is for sure wrong with the baby gudgeons the pintails seem OK though....My favorite way was to form the strap around a correct size rod and use the rod for the pintles used to do a lot of braising but it worked for me. I would see about parts from the maker. Hope that helps
  25. ringbolt2013
    Did you ever go see clayton707 ??? That guy is a prodigy, His Vasa is Awesome! Just type in "clayton707" and you can get to his site...happy viewing! Tom Ps out standing job on the planking!!!

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